Installing a line lock
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I have the Hurst Line Lock and Hurst Line Lock Install Kit and I was wondering how hard it is to install it myself? Are there is any howto docs, tips, or things to do and not for installing. Any help would be great. TIA.
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Where did you get it from? Call them, they should be sent you some instructions.
Thunderracing has one of the best total line-lock kits around. Really easy, plug-and-play <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
It's almost imppossible to tell you exactly how to hook it up without know exactly what you have.
David
Thunderracing has one of the best total line-lock kits around. Really easy, plug-and-play <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
It's almost imppossible to tell you exactly how to hook it up without know exactly what you have.
David
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There are some pictures on the Thunder Racing web site that can help a lot.
I got the TR lines kit, but didn't 'realize' that I needed a couple of fittings to go from the linelock body to the lines. Turns out that AutoZone stocks the fittings behind the counter. One was a right angle NPT/flare fitting, the other was just an NPT to flare adapter. Or somethin' like that.
With the TR lines, and after I called back and they told me about those fittings <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> it was a snap to install. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
-Andrew
I got the TR lines kit, but didn't 'realize' that I needed a couple of fittings to go from the linelock body to the lines. Turns out that AutoZone stocks the fittings behind the counter. One was a right angle NPT/flare fitting, the other was just an NPT to flare adapter. Or somethin' like that.
With the TR lines, and after I called back and they told me about those fittings <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> it was a snap to install. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
-Andrew
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I used SLP'S unit
Ithink if you gravity bleed the line as I, will save you time and problems
I have no air problems ,press brake, set switch and you will not move a inch
come see them smoke
http://kickme.to/jgruggles
LINE LOCK INFO
IS hole behind pcm , but i drill hole beside steering colum also ( drill from inside out ) put a peace of rubber hose in hole ran wire inside hose, then use same type wire wrap as GM,tie wrap to the big rubber hose comming over master cyl
I also mounted switch in ash tray
just finished 4:30 pm today
my .02
PS ::Connect brake line to master cyl and line lock ,the second line which goes to ABS block start it but leave it loose,remove cap from master cyl and let the lines grivity bleed watch the loose connection untill all air is out and run pure fluid ( may shake the line a little to help bleed ( REMBER BRAKE FLUID WILL RENOVE PAINT
I placed plastic sheet over fender)if does not gravity bleed blow into master cyl and have some one watch for fluid at ABS block >>>THIS way you do not have to bleed the brakes from under car- I had no problem of any kind
also the picture from SLP is UPSIDE DOWN install with the wire connection UP
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps
<small>[ July 31, 2002, 10:38 PM: Message edited by: SS SLP2 ]</small>
Ithink if you gravity bleed the line as I, will save you time and problems
I have no air problems ,press brake, set switch and you will not move a inch
come see them smoke
http://kickme.to/jgruggles
LINE LOCK INFO
IS hole behind pcm , but i drill hole beside steering colum also ( drill from inside out ) put a peace of rubber hose in hole ran wire inside hose, then use same type wire wrap as GM,tie wrap to the big rubber hose comming over master cyl
I also mounted switch in ash tray
just finished 4:30 pm today
my .02
PS ::Connect brake line to master cyl and line lock ,the second line which goes to ABS block start it but leave it loose,remove cap from master cyl and let the lines grivity bleed watch the loose connection untill all air is out and run pure fluid ( may shake the line a little to help bleed ( REMBER BRAKE FLUID WILL RENOVE PAINT
I placed plastic sheet over fender)if does not gravity bleed blow into master cyl and have some one watch for fluid at ABS block >>>THIS way you do not have to bleed the brakes from under car- I had no problem of any kind
also the picture from SLP is UPSIDE DOWN install with the wire connection UP
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps
<small>[ July 31, 2002, 10:38 PM: Message edited by: SS SLP2 ]</small>
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Line lock install is quite easy. Don't be afraid to do the line bending yourself. It is very easy and can be done with or without a bender. Without a bender you can use round objects to help form smooth bends in the lines. Of course a bender is a bit easier.
It's been awhile since I did the line lock, but the biggest problem is to make sure you have the kit for the F-body that contains two fittings that go on the master cylinder & the ABS block. It's part # 567 1515. This kit allows you to screw directly into the master cyl & the ABS with the proper thread, then convert to std US threaded brake lines. You then get the proper US brass fittings for the Hurst unit along with one plug and you simply bend your own lines and install where you want to. I bleed with a vacumn bleeder, but the gravity method works fine also. You are tapping into the ABS block at the right rear corner fitting (if you are standing in front of the car looking at motor)it controls the front brakes only.
Hope this helps.
Just found this in another sevtion, might be of some help.
http://www.ls1info.com/article.php?sid=251
<small>[ August 01, 2002, 12:26 AM: Message edited by: sms99 ]</small>
It's been awhile since I did the line lock, but the biggest problem is to make sure you have the kit for the F-body that contains two fittings that go on the master cylinder & the ABS block. It's part # 567 1515. This kit allows you to screw directly into the master cyl & the ABS with the proper thread, then convert to std US threaded brake lines. You then get the proper US brass fittings for the Hurst unit along with one plug and you simply bend your own lines and install where you want to. I bleed with a vacumn bleeder, but the gravity method works fine also. You are tapping into the ABS block at the right rear corner fitting (if you are standing in front of the car looking at motor)it controls the front brakes only.
Hope this helps.
Just found this in another sevtion, might be of some help.
http://www.ls1info.com/article.php?sid=251
<small>[ August 01, 2002, 12:26 AM: Message edited by: sms99 ]</small>
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Can anyone tell me, in detail, about gravity bleeding the Hurst-Thunder Racing linelock combo? This can all be done effectively at the unit & without bleeding at individual wheels? Pardon my ignorance, but someone please explain how this is done one more time. Thanks. WJ. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
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NO need to bleed under car at all ,only bleed at abs block, reread my above post as I HAD NO AIR problems, been 6 weeks and no air and NO more bleeding
come visit http://kickme.to/jgruggles
come visit http://kickme.to/jgruggles