Need help with shift kit on 4l65e built
#21
I think that the outer spring would be fine because it is much stiffer than the original. You can always add the inner spring if you want it to shift harder. I believe it alone will work just fine. The seal that is cut is it the rubber one or the teflon one? I don't know if I would use an oring in it's place. If you need the correct seals feel free to shoot me a PM. Vince
EDIT- The little inner spring in an OEM set up is a bumper spring. Or basically only allows the piston to travel so far.
EDIT- The little inner spring in an OEM set up is a bumper spring. Or basically only allows the piston to travel so far.
#22
well the outer spring does not appear to be stock so since you said you have a super servo , I beleive I would leave out the washers and the center spring though it is actually stock since your goal is considerable softer shifts ,
I do not know that the round oring will work since i have never done that
I do not know that the round oring will work since i have never done that
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#23
I beleave we were giving the same answer to the same question at the same time lol
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#24
Originally Posted by performabuilt
I beleave we were giving the same answer to the same question at the same time lol
#25
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Vince, I sent a PM about the o-ring thing. And once again regarding fluid, I've seen a few conflicting things in other posts about synthetic or not. I have a Dexcron III/Macron or whatev certified normal penzoil i believe atf and also have a mobile1 synthetic version. I have 6 qts of both new in bottles. Which to use? An explanation to educate would be appreciated so I understand why rather than just being told. Thank you again.
#26
Well im relativly new to just my actual job is customer service and answering questions in this and several other forums
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#28
#29
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So i finished the work today. Two of the holes in the tranny were stripped so i had to hellacoil them. It worked great and got everything back in. The 1-2 shift is now a ton better and just a hair stiffer than stock.
Now I have another issue though. When i put the car into drive from park or neutral, it does that jarring that the 1st to 2nd shift was doing. To clarify, it was doing this before I did the above mentioned repairs. What could cause this? Any help appreciated.
Lastly, I put 5 full quarts in. The tranny has a deep transmission pan though. Should I put another in or something?
Now I have another issue though. When i put the car into drive from park or neutral, it does that jarring that the 1st to 2nd shift was doing. To clarify, it was doing this before I did the above mentioned repairs. What could cause this? Any help appreciated.
Lastly, I put 5 full quarts in. The tranny has a deep transmission pan though. Should I put another in or something?
#31
Originally Posted by LastBlack02SS
So i finished the work today. Two of the holes in the tranny were stripped so i had to hellacoil them. It worked great and got everything back in. The 1-2 shift is now a ton better and just a hair stiffer than stock.
Now I have another issue though. When i put the car into drive from park or neutral, it does that jarring that the 1st to 2nd shift was doing. To clarify, it was doing this before I did the above mentioned repairs. What could cause this? Any help appreciated.
Lastly, I put 5 full quarts in. The tranny has a deep transmission pan though. Should I put another in or something?
Now I have another issue though. When i put the car into drive from park or neutral, it does that jarring that the 1st to 2nd shift was doing. To clarify, it was doing this before I did the above mentioned repairs. What could cause this? Any help appreciated.
Lastly, I put 5 full quarts in. The tranny has a deep transmission pan though. Should I put another in or something?
Last edited by GMRACER13; 12-20-2006 at 11:34 PM.
#32
agreed a bad idea but may have happened i would look at that next wish you had said something earlier
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#34
I will try and find a pic tomorrow ok
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