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Old 12-24-2006, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by zspot98
Are you saying that the only way to determine if a converter is bad is for you to crack it open and make that determination? Can't another experianced tranny guy tell what happened as well as you? I guess, I would also be a little sceptical about sending a product back to the manufactuer, just for them to tell me that the reason this happened was due to my own mistakes. You have to look at this guys side too John. Let's say he did send the converter back to you and you said; "the converter didin't cause the tranny failure, but we'll gladly send you a new converter". Now he has to make a decision, put your stall back in another rebuilt tranny and hope the same thing doesn't happen or go another route. I would hope that anyone that has doubts about a companies product would attempt to get a second opinion. I know if a doctor said something serious was wrong with me, I'd probably go for a second opinion. Like stated in this thread, "people make mistakes".
Think of cutting a converter open more like an autopsy than a check up. If you were accused of murder, which in this case Fuddle essentially was, your lawyer would make absolutely certain that his expert were either performing or at least sitting in on the autopsy. You wouldn't want to just see the "evidence" in photographs in court.

As far as "You have to look at it from this guy's side" we certainly are. We didn't just offer to rebuild it, but transfer the warranty if he sold it.


I have already said the above in past posts, and am now pressured to say it again. I agree with the previous statements that this thread has long outlived its usefulness. Mods, your move?
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Old 12-24-2006, 02:41 PM
  #122  
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well i had a good experience with fuddle from a customer service perspective but i was extremely displeased with the convertor itself i ordered a 3400 with 2.1 stall, it was very loose i had to take it up to 3000 rpm just to get it moving. I recently put in a Yank SS3600 and its like night and day way tighter and more responsive. I am not bashing fuddle very nice guy but in this case Yank is and will be my convertor of choice from now on.
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Old 12-24-2006, 02:43 PM
  #123  
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Wonder if Fuddle can post up one time without mentioning the "waranty"?



Here's my thoughts on a waranty. I don't really give a ****. I buy a product because I believe it will perform. NOT because it will be replaced WHEN it fails. May want to rethink your marketing.

Maybe a little better quality control......and a little less waranty....
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Old 12-24-2006, 03:51 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by 1jfuddle
Think of cutting a converter open more like an autopsy than a check up. If you were accused of murder, which in this case Fuddle essentially was, your lawyer would make absolutely certain that his expert were either performing or at least sitting in on the autopsy. You wouldn't want to just see the "evidence" in photographs in court.
You're right, a defense attorneny would assemble numerous experts to look into the "autopsy" to buid their credibiltiy. If they only got one expert opinion, and that came from a guy on their payroll, I'm sure some might look at it as a conflict of intrest or maybe doctoring evidence?

John, essentially are you saying that since this was your product only you than can look at it and determine the problem? I am sure If I bought a set of heads from AFR and then took then took them to ETP to have them looked at; they would be able to diagnose a problem just as well as, say patriot? I guess maybe I am confused on that? All I am trying to do is figure out why, over the past 6-8 months have there been so many horror stories about your converters? Is it just that so many folks are jumping on the bandwagon, or is it that your product is truely inferior? I guess the jury is still out on that. Like Jay siad most people would buy an aftermarket performance part because of its performance history, not it's warranty.

MODS: This will be my last post in here, as I don't want to get the thread locked for accusitory bashing. I think there has been a tremendous amount of usefull info in this thread and would hope that'll continue.

Originally Posted by Zero30
i ordered a 3400 with 2.1 stall, it was very loose i had to take it up to 3000 rpm just to get it moving.
At least I'm not the only one with this probem, except mine gets to about 3300 before it'll move.

Last edited by zspot98; 12-24-2006 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 12-24-2006, 06:40 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by 1jfuddle
...Also, we have never marketed the Performance Series converter as being anything but a high quality converter that, if used correctly, will handle reasonable power. We have dozens of customers running deep into the 10s with this converter. However, we acknowledge that it has its limitations. It probably won't handle a stroker, and it probably won't handle a blower. That is exactly why the HP/Street Series was developed. It was designed to be the best, and to do so, clutch size had to be significantly increased...
I have never bashed Fuddle converters. Ever. I bought one when they were on sale earlier in the year. I just installed mine and, aside from being extremely loose, I have no problem. However, I am in the middle of tuning my new injectors and have not yet applied full power.
I have a problem with this statement if I understand it correctly. I sent in the form at the Fuddle website, told them exactly what I had (namely, STS turbo, shift kit, dyno tune). Fuddle told me to get the Performance Series, 3400, STR 2.1. Are you now telling me that I have the wrong convertor? I am stunned, to say the least, if this is true. Again, I did not pick this out myself, I was told to buy this unit. I thought I needed the billet unit, myself, but went on the recommendation of the Fuddle representative. I hope that I have read this wrong.

Last edited by koolaid_kid; 12-25-2006 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 12-24-2006, 09:40 PM
  #126  
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...most of us are always doing everything we can to have our cake and eat it too.
Each person must try and figure out what there goal is and what they are willing to sacrifice as far as drivability and durability to get it. unfortunatley there is no one size fits all...


The most true comment I've read on a website. Thanks to all the manufacturers here for the info and weigh-ins.
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Old 12-25-2006, 12:28 AM
  #127  
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PLEASE keep this thread open, learning alot in here.. and performabuilt, just an FYI from my Track experience with my truck.. I was able to run locking in 3rd at about the 1000' mark and ran 12.54 a couple times @107+, not locking it went 12.7 @105.. I was able to keep it from locking on that particular run by skipping 2nd on the gear selector, directly to 3rd, all others were shifted manually 1-2-3 and it locked... So for me no poweradder, NA, and barely a thing done, but that's how much I gained from locking at WOT, I have a MultiDisk 3plate, which Precision encourages to be locked.. IMO that's a good thing, if what everyone is saying is causing damage, I have extra faith restored knowing they actually "Encourage" it... Does Yank or Fuddle encourage that as well, I already understand form your previous post you don't condone it.. Thanks, Tony
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Old 12-25-2006, 08:55 AM
  #128  
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Actually in your particular multi disk setup and if it works for you then I do not have a problem with it , In fact in a previous post I did state that for those who do want to or feel the need to then they should invest in a multi disk converter since thats why they are made. However with the single disk units though they can survive it on a limited scale there as I have also stated is no matter who makes it even with the oem size lockup clutch not enough surface area to do it without risking wearing or burning the clutch prematurely , In your case you spent the extra money to buy a converter with multi disk just for that purpose. Just like when someone is picking a race clutch for there manual trans they wouldn't goto auto zone and get the regular one and expect it to last they would buy the one with the largest area and the strongest pressure plate they could get.
So for those who aren't going to be using there lockup clutch in a manor different than the stock parameters its no issue but for those like you who have or do have a need to lock at full throttle then they should spend the money for a multi disk unit for that purpose from whatever manufacturer. But again as someone else stated earlier though I'm not overly familiar personally with the multi disk units there may be some draw backs to those in drivability and long term durability also .But again as I stated too in performance parts theres a trade off to everything you have to determine what your need is then weigh the pros and cons, But there are those who try and have there cake and eat it to as they say , I have people call everyday and ask for things like this
(I have a 700 hp stroker i want your level 3 trans but I want it to shift like stock because I drive my wife and kids around in it but I also take it to the strip every weekend and spray it ) The entire request is a contradiction but it happens all the time.
So again when purchasing performance parts you have to weigh whats of the greatest importance to you drivability wise verses your performance needs and what you can actually afford to spend
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Old 12-25-2006, 09:03 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
I have a 700 hp stroker i want your level 3 trans but I want it to shift like stock because I drive my wife and kids around in it but I also take it to the strip every weekend and spray it
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Old 12-25-2006, 09:33 AM
  #130  
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^^ or you just have kids and a wife who like to go fast. My one friends wife is like that. We all went to a track 3hrs away last year. We were in no hurry, but the whole time the slowest I went on the freeway was 85mph, trying to keep up with his Wife in her T/A. Heck she goes down the track more times in one day than most guys do in a season
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Old 12-25-2006, 11:17 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by TonyGXP
PLEASE FYI from my Track experience with my truck.. I was able to run locking in 3rd at about the 1000' mark and ran 12.54 a couple times @107+, not locking it went 12.7 @105..
Do you have a lock-up switch, or did you tune it to lock up at WOT? Because no matter what gear pattern you use, these trannies do not lock up at WOT unless forced to do so.
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Old 12-25-2006, 11:50 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by RevGTO
Do you have a lock-up switch, or did you tune it to lock up at WOT? Because no matter what gear pattern you use, these trannies do not lock up at WOT unless forced to do so.
It's the strangest thing.. I have a VERY well known tuner (Wester's Garage, Lyndon Wester himself) that tunes my truck (albeit by remote from Canada, but on the dyno) and I never asked him for anything specific as this is "new" for me (world of electronic/trans). I just told him i bought xxx converter and he did the rest.. I have no switch, but did notice I could manipulate the lockup at the track by shifting manually, if I leave it in drive it doesn't lockup under WOT, just like on the Hwy, i have no clue why not, but it works for me, I will ask him when i get a chance and see if it's something he programmed or just a characteristic of the setup? I do know that when it went through unlocked, I KNEW it was going to be slower, that lockup on the bigend felt like another gear & with the converter's STR 2.53, it was perfect, dropped the RPM's back to 5000 and you could feel the SOTP difference on those passes... when i ran stock tire (taller tire) it didn't lock until right before the traps, this may be a reason some guys complain about the Vig being "slower", hits hard as hell early, but on the big end, locking the converter (not many doing it from what I can tell?) makes up for that "hi stall" loss.. So in essence, I can have my cake and eat it to...
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Old 12-25-2006, 01:19 PM
  #133  
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Wow ... I've never heard of that kind of a deal but I guess he tuned it to lock at WOT. I can't argue with your results, though ... you're about 1000 lbs. heavier but you're running faster than I am and there's no big difference in mods. You get better DA's there than we do in Kansas, but still ...
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Old 12-25-2006, 03:51 PM
  #134  
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Look at his 60'. Very impressive for such a tank!

Having an LS2 also helps.
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:14 PM
  #135  
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Wow Fuddle Thats Some Shitty *** Welds....can You Explain The Welding
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:06 PM
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Have you read the response I wrote a couple months ago? If you had, you would have seen that the "shitty welds" mentioned are the back side of penetration of a great weld. We have never seen those welds fail, even in setups well in excess of 1000hp.
If you have a real question, let's at least know what we are looking at if we are going to bump a thread that died 2 months ago.

Last edited by 1jfuddle; 02-22-2007 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 02-23-2007, 07:14 AM
  #137  
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JPR, that is the definition of trolling a post bro. come on.
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:36 AM
  #138  
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I read in one of the post's that you should do away with the PWM,How exactly is that done?...............Paul
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Old 02-23-2007, 01:15 PM
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YEA, I WAS JUST GIVIN SOME **** FOR THOSE WELDS.. NOT SAYING I COULD WELD ANY BETER BUT THEN AGAIN IM NOT SELLING CONVERTERS...

BUT CALM DOWN FUDDLE JUST f*CKING WITH YA.. I AGREE TO YOUR POINT THAT ITS A CHEEP CONVERTER SO CONSUMERS SHOULDENT EXPECT EVERYTHING.. AND THAT TO COMPARE YOUR LOW END PRODUCTS TO A YANK WOULD BE LIKE PEOPLE SAYING "SEE GM SUCKS LOOK AT THIS CAVILER; IT DOSENT EVEN COMPARE TO A MERCEDES"

PERSONALLY ID LIKE TO SEE THIS FORM SPONCER A TEST OF ALL MAJOR BRAND CONVERTERS.. HAVE EM CUT OPEN, INSPECTED ECT...

ALTHOUGH I DO BELIEVE COMPANIES LIKE VIG AND YANK USALLY LEAD THE WAY WITH INNOVATION (I.E FIRST TO THE MARKET WITH NEW TECHNOLGIES) IT DOSENT MEAN THAT AT ALL TIMES THEIR PRODUCTS ARE OF SUPERIOR QUALITY... AND BEING CONVERTERS ARE A NOT SO NEW TECHNOLOGY I CAN SEE COMPANIES MAKEING GOOD CONVERTERS FOR DECENT PRICES...
Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
JPR, that is the definition of trolling a post bro. come on.
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Old 02-23-2007, 01:16 PM
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YOU CAN EFFECTIVELY TUNE IT OUT (I THINK) IN THE TCC PWM TABLES OR WHEN YOU HAVE A TRANNY BUILD THEY CAN BUILD THE TRANNY TO NOT DO IT



Originally Posted by DRIVER456
I read in one of the post's that you should do away with the PWM,How exactly is that done?...............Paul
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