Oh boy I am so excited, I just ordered a new stall.

Being that I am still an automatic n00b, how do you launch the thing now that the stall is higher? Leave off of idle, stall it a little bit, stall it to stall speed? I want to make the most out of my track time.

I'm running an 8.23 @ 87.5mph now with an LS6 intake, muffler, and a tune. I am hoping to benefit from the stall + drag radials. I also ordered a shift kit and trans cooler to go along with it.

 

since you've got stickies, try launching on 23 psi tire pressure(lower if you need to) brake stalling it to 2500 rpms. That seems to be an average point that works for alot of people. let her rip and youll get a feel for what you need to adjust afterwards.

 

Leaving at idle will take advantage of the converters STR the most.

 

Whack it off idle 1st and get a feel for it. You can footbrake after that.

 

Not trying to steal your thread, but this might pertain to you. What can I expect from my rearend with the SS4000 and flashing it off the line. That's if the Nitto's hook. I want to run my max time, but I want my rear to last as well. Can it handle a dead hook with a 2.6 STR?

 

I guess we will just have to find out the hard way

I am planning on using some MT E/Ts, which have a considerable amount of bite as well. You can't trust the 10 bolt 100%, but if it is any consolation you have a much better shot at keeping it together with an A4....that's what I keep telling myself anyway.

 

Yeah, that's what I've heard....but it hits so hard. I guess I'll find out the hard way also. My wife already said it's gonna sit if I fry my rearend. I'll take that chance .

 

U will always launch harder going off of idle......if u brake stall to stall speed then ur kinda giving up ur STR.......Better to stall under the stall speed and still be able to use some of that STR. With my 3400 i brake stall 25-2600 then flash the rest.

 

What was your 60' on the above run??

If you can hook it, you are going to love it. I remember puttin some DR on and my stock verter and cuttin 1.65 60's and goin WOW.. Then I added my 4K stall verter and feeling my stomach drop (like it does on a roller coaster). I only raced 3 times last summer and all 60's were 1.54/1.55/1.58..

I try to launch around ~1500-2000.

 

how big is the converter? Nittos won't hook on the street with a big converter, I scared the **** out of a few people last year when I had a borrowed set of nittos on the car and some buddies said I couldn't spin on nittos, launched at 2500 on cold nittos and spun for a long time. warmed em up and launched at 2000 and I still spun for a good 150 feet. My et street radials would chirp and go. I would try launching at a few hundred rpms above idle. I cut a 1.51 60' on a 3.42 gear launching at about 1400rpm.

 

I have run the MT Drag Radials 255/50 16's at 18psi and found at the track that I could not always leave off idle because it would cause wheel hop on the stock suspension I had at the time. I usually left off the footbrake at 2200 or so which worked well for me. On 26" MT ET streets at 20 psi though I could leave off idle all day long with no wheel hop or anyhintg. Regardless as long as there was no wheel hop I usually cut 1.7x 60's with a best of 1.68 60' off idle launch on the ET streets but the best overall 1/4 time was on the radials. we'll see what it does next season as I have some UMI pieces and less weight on the nose after the !AC mod since the AC compressor started to make horrid noises.

 

If you find anything that works for you let me know.

Things I have learned so far:

1) Jerk is bad
2) Flooring it is bad
3) Soft pedaling it is no better
4) Street tires no good at the track

Netting me a best of 2.0 and a worst of 2.1 60' times
in maybe a dozen tries.

If you can "balance on the wave", get enough of a
bite that significant weight transfer happens, then
"the rich get richer" and off you go. Too far on either
side of it and you just paddle. Me, I can't surf worth
****.

 

A couple of good post I have made regarding launching a auto. Once you master launching an auto (stalled), you will easily be able to pull 1.80 60's or better on (true) street tires. That is my best so far on my 3000 stall and Riken street tires. Good luck!

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=technique

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=technique

 

My 60' on that run was a 1.91. That is on street tires with 32psi (seemed to be the magic number for them). I have been told d/rs are a must after a stall, so I am going to go ahead and buy them on another set of rims to keep just for the track. I don't think you understand how excited I am. Stuff should be here this week and is going in on Feb 17th. Happy Valentines day, Keliente.

 

made me chuckle....hehehe...kewl.

 

Thats all I did was just put my MT DR on a stock 16' wheel for now. Works fine..

 

basically each car, with different power levels and converters will all need to be launched differently. i have found it best for myself to brake stall it rather than flashing it. I'd rather have my drivetrain and rearend loaded to minimize breaking it with a quick snap. It has worked well with an old Yank ST3800 and 2.73's pulling 1.67 60' fts. With 3.42's all i could muster by end of the season was a 1.65 lifting both front tires an inch or two. Now with cam, LS6 intake and YankSS4000 I'm looking for 1.5's and even higher wheels up.

 

Greg what were you brake stalling it to? I have the same thoughts about loading the drivetrain to lessen the shock of launching.

And what are you guys talking about when you say flash? Like hitting the gas briefly to flash the rpms up, or just leaving off idle?

 

Flash is basically not stalling up the converter with the brake (brake stall). The RPM converters are rated to stall to is "flash stall".

 

personally, my car liked 2600 rpms, and yours may be different. all you can do is start somewhere and adjust both RPM launch point and tire pressures until you can get your best 60' without spinning. a harder hitting converter might roast the tires from an idle launch, just something else to consider