Had it installed yesterday at a reputable shop, along with a b&m shift kit and b&m tranny cooler. Car feels obviously looser and such which I expected, but here's my problem.
I'll punch it from a dead stop the car will launch really hard (I'm on Nitto's) and then it will just cut power and hang right a 4 grand and then slowly build up to redline. I can't tell if I'm stuck in first or if it went to second gear, but the tach needle just shoots up to 4K and then just barely moves after that. What's going on here. The car is slower now than before. I blew almost 1200 bux (parts and labor) and my car feels like $h!t, had I known problems would be this bad I would of never done this.

<small>[ September 28, 2002, 05:42 PM: Message edited by: SSPEEDY ]</small>

 

Do you have HPP3, or any device to re-program shift points? Sounds like either a shiftpoint problem, or a torque management problem.... Someone get in here and help this man out. Best wishes. WJ. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

sounds liek tq management. what year is your car?

 

Sig says 2000 ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by WJ 99 SS:
<strong>Do you have HPP3, or any device to re-program shift points? Sounds like either a shiftpoint problem, or a torque management problem.... Someone get in here and help this man out. Best wishes. WJ. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No, I don't have the HPP3. I was supposed to get LS1Edit for tuning, but they told me my car wouldn't take it (have posted this problem in the Comp/diagnostic forum). The LS1Edit basic tune included shift points, delete TM and change the rev limiter. The owner told me they couldn't do this because they said my car needed to be taken to a dealership and hooked up to a scan tool. Once I did this he said it would pop right up. Well, I went to a dealership this morning and the tech was clueless. He said to reflash it would be about a hundred bucks but said if you don't have any codes there is really no point. He asked to have the shop call him or at least write down in detail what problem they ran into. He was really cool about it. Place I had the work done at is a VERY reputable sponsor on here so I'm sure they know what they're talking about.
BTW, I also kept checking my tranny fluid level and it's fine (a bit overfull actually).

 

I would trust the shop. Get the reflash..

 

solve the computer issues and this will probably go away.

 

you could reflash the computer but before that try to disconnect your battery for about 5 minutes (thats not a specific time just about long it usually takes), and then reconnect. this will usually reset the computer and then it begins the re-learn process of adjusting to the new settings. also though i wouldnt be too happy with a b&m shift kit, those are rumored to burn out the 4L60E as to where the transgo's have had much better results. hope this helps and doenst turn out to be just hearsay.

 

if they are saying that they cant make a connection for edit, check all your fuses in the engine bay, i had the same issue and found that it was a busted fuse (forget which <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> ).

 

have you atapped it when its doing this?? if so what does the timing look like?

They said your car wont take edit?? WHY wont it?? That doesnt make sense. If you have no ses lights then its nothing any scan tool will read. I just im lost as to why they dont you your car wont EDIT? you just plug it in and edit anything you want.

also make sure your tranny fiuld is fine when HOT. But with a stall its gonna go up to a certain RPMS and stall out(slow the rpms from moving) to keep you in the power band longer

 

When you say it hangs at 4K, is this by any chance happening after the motor hit the rev limiter and then fell the the lower rpms?

I had rev limiter / shift point troubles with both the converters I've had in my car (2001 SS) that were very much like you described in the first post.

The problems ended up being easily cleared up by by simply adjusting the shift points (and I threw another 100 rpm to the rev limiter) with a HPP3.

 

I don't have Autotap, so no luck there.

Okay, here's exactly how I can describe it. When I first picked the car up I did a few WOT runs. The rpms would shoot all the way to redline and bang into the rev limiter. Happened about 3 times then I figured I'd stop and wait to screw around the next day. The next morning I took my car out for a ride for about 10-15 minutes to get used to the feel. It takes around 2000 rpm (according to the tach) to get the car moving at a steady pace and the car shifts nicely. I come to a dead stop and hammer it. The car lunges forward HARD for a second and then falls flat right at the 4K mark and seems to slowly climb from there. I did it tonight again and the same thing happens. It has not reached anywear near redline for the last two days. I tried brake stalling and the tires seem to break loose right around 2200-2400 rpm. This was on non heated Nitto DR's. I'm not too familiar on what TM feels like but have a feeling this should be it.
As far as shift kits, I chose the B&M over the transgo on recommendation from the shop tech. He said it's cheaper (35 bucks) and works just as good, although they do carry both. The labor for installing the B&M was just a bit less than the Transgo. I told him I didn't care spending a little extra for better quality but he said I would never notice the difference. This guy has worked on tons of f-bods and this place seems to be a favorite of everyone.
One other thing, my trans fluid is overfilled or so it seems. It's just under half an inch past the little cross section on the dipstick. Could this be messing things up? I know it isn't good, but wanted to drive for a couple days thinking it may settle down.

<small>[ September 30, 2002, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: SSPEEDY ]</small>

 

I wonder how much of this may just be
perception; a converter with more torque
multiplication will seem to "fall off"
more when it passes its stall.

But why there's a 4000RPM hang on a
3200RPM converter, I dunno.

 

"...The rpms would shoot all the way to redline and bang into the rev limiter..."

I had a feeling about that.

Losing power at high rpm after hitting the rev limiter 3x, I'd think you may want to have your pushrods checked out, you may have bent one or more.

<small>[ October 01, 2002, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: TR ]</small>