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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 01:44 PM
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Default Yank Fuddle Vigilante

What brand of converters do you guys like the best? I want one for a stock a4 DD with weekend trips to the track. Whats ''loose'' and ''tight'' mean? I dont want to be driving around sounding like im racing when im just trying to get the car to move.
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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I wouldn't personally use a fuddle if you paid me. I currently enjoy a Vig 3200, and know several people successful with Yank converters.
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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fuddle is fine for the street especially in a dd cause its not super expensive and they have a pretty badass warranty/upgrade policy. my new one is a yank and its the **** but is for info (copied and pasted from Fuddle .com)
They Make You Faster:

Even on a relatively stock setup, 1/4 mile gains of .6-.7 are extremely common. On more modified cars, gains around one full second have been seen. Amazing bang for your buck!

1. Higher RPM Launches: Largely similar to "dumping" a clutch at a higher RPM, a higher stall converter allows your car to leave the line with more power hitting the wheels as you launch.

Here are a couple of examples of how the launches change when you step up to a performance converter. Variables such as different brakes, tires, and gear ratios effect how the converter stalls, but these will give you a general idea.

Example 1- Assume your stock stall is around 1600 RPM. Get into the car and hold your foot on the brake. Now at the same time you let off of the brake, stab the throttle like you are at the track. Keep a close eye on the tach. It will jump to about 1600 RPM and start climbing from there. If you moved to a 3200 stall, it would jump to about 3200 and start climbing from there. It gives you a huge punch by launching at a higher RPM and at an RPM that is more in the meat of your powerband.

Example 2- Again, assume a stock stall of 1600 RPM. Now, in drive, hold your left foot on the brake as hard as you can. Now slowly rev the engine with your other foot. Notice that about 1200-1300 RPM the tires start to break loose. Now imagine that you have a 3200 stall. You could now spin the motor closer to 3k before the tires started to brake loose.

2. Torque Multiplication: When an automatic transmission is launched, the torque converter actually multiplies the input torque. That multiplication is called the Stall Torque Ratio or STR. If you raise the STR, the amount of torque you have on launch also becomes greater. With a sticky tire, launches with a high STR can be down right brutal. STR


3. Shift Extension: Most automatic cars experience a dead spot immediately after the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. It will feel really strong all through first gear (with LS1's particularly at the top RPM because that is where LS1's like to be, high RPM's). Notice immediately after the 1-2 shift (and 2-3, if you get that high) that it seems to fall flat on its face for a couple of seconds. That is the dead spot and can feel like more than a couple seconds at the track. It feels weak until the RPM's get to where they should be, and the power feels like it comes back. With a stall converter, the RPM's do not fall like they do with a stock converter. Expect the RPM's to stay considerably higher after the shifts with a stall converter, completely getting rid of the dead zone.


4. Reduced Weight: (Does not apply to stock style converters)

A stock converter on an LS1 Camaro weighs 53 lbs. Our basic 245mm conversion weighs 30 lbs. While 23 lbs. of weight reduction does not sound like much, it is entirely rotational weight. The engine is now required to spin 23 less lbs. It now revs faster and considerably more freely.


Example- Take a short pole with a 53 lb. weight at its end and one with a 30 lb. weight. Try turning the one with the 53 lbs. and turn it by hand. Now try the same thing with the other pole. The lighter pole is considerably easier to spin. The same is true for the engine. The lighter one is easier not only to spin faster but to start spinning
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 10:12 AM
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definitely stay away from fuddle!! either go vigilante or yank!! they both are quality products. i think the vig is a better street verter. and the yank a better strip verter! but im looking at a vig 3200 or 3600 myself.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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I have the Yank 4200 so you know where my vote is?
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 10:26 AM
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I'd run a Vig or a Yank.... definitely not a Fuddle... too many people have had problems.

if you look in my sig, you see where my #1 vote goes...
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 10:40 AM
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Yank of Vig are great, Fuddle is not. I cant wait to test out my new Edge converter though
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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I run Yank. I havent had a single problem yet and 9 out of 10 of my buddies also have Yank.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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I have an SS3800 and LOVE it for a DD and at the track. Although I've been working out some bugs, I can run 1.6X 60's. My brother had an SS4000 and at full weight (with 17 X 9s up front) and 3.73s he ran a best of 12.4 @ 108 with a 1.6' 60' on DRs. The car was a 3625 without him in it. He liked the looser feeling of my 3800 with 3.23s a little better but that car flat-out RAN with that stall.

I haven't had any experience except a couple internet correspondences with Fuddle and thought pretty highly of them. I haven't been on here enough lately to see if there have been issues with them as of late, but it's my understanding their converters are a great value and their service it top-notch.

Good luck.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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I do want something reliable, no way in hell i want to keep paying installation costs. My main concern is DD on the street, anyone try a yank3000. Not sure what 2.25str means tho...
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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i HAD a yank 3500 and loved it... Now ive got a vig 3800 and its way better imo lock up wise its much smoother and it just feals allaround soild compared to the yank but BOTH are vary close and i recomend ither...
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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read the sticky about stalls, that should answer some questions

and as everyone one is saying, stay away from fuddle.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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I realize I am new to LS1Tech, but I have my converter in quite a few LS1's and I know I can compete with a Yank or a PI. Right now the price is $700, no shipping, no core carge, 2 year warranty. Guranteed to make you happy or your money back. I use billet front and a billet piston that is the lightest in the industry, finished weight - 29lbs!

Chris

Last edited by Circle-D; Jan 29, 2009 at 08:12 PM.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 01:13 PM
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I need a convertor for around $3-350 thats not garbage. What is in my price range? I race it on the weekends, but it's stock except for the trans that's getting built
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 01:25 PM
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i've had Yank and Vigilante..hear negatives re Fuddle.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TA1364
What brand of converters do you guys like the best? I want one for a stock a4 DD with weekend trips to the track. Whats ''loose'' and ''tight'' mean? I dont want to be driving around sounding like im racing when im just trying to get the car to move.
I believe you will find many very happy customers running Fuddle Racing product. You simply won't find a higher quality converter on the market than our HP/Street Series. With its clutch size more than twice the size of stock and nearly twice the size of the competition's "oversized" clutches, and its proven record behind several single digit setups, you can't go wrong. If you need something on more of a budget, our Performance Series is built to handle big power and will take a real beating for less money. You just don't get the huge clutch size.
For a stock daily driver that will see track time, both the HPS.3400 and the P.3400 will work extremely well. This is actually the same stall setup that I use in my own daily driver and I wouldn't trade it for anything. The converter is tight enough that it wants to pull me up even some pretty steep hills and hits hard enough to lay serious rubber down anywhere and anytime. The 3400 stall speed will really work well to match the stock powerband as well, and if you move to a cam in the future, even some moderate/aggressive cams work very well with this stall setup behind them.
As far as loose v. tight, it is pretty simple and you actually seem to have a good grasp on the concept. A loose converter will take more throttle to move and will give the race sound to move the car that you mentioned. A tight converter doesn't have that problem. You certainly won't have that problem with the P.3400 or the HPS.3400.

I hope this helps and feel free to shoot me a PM, or call me directly at (801) 368-9655 if there are any other questions you have.
-John
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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I have a vig 3600 on my FLT tranny. I DD mine and the lockup is perfect...no chatter or problems even with the stock lockup tune and I've run a bunch of 1.6 60's on sticky tires on it. My vote goes to Vig.. 2nd to Yank.. 3rd.. well there is no 3rd 4th or anything else as far as I'm concerned.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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I wouldn't rag on fuddle, I have seen boosted cars running low 10's with their converter.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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Try out performabuilt, frank is a great guy and will help you out when ever you need it. Mine is doing great with a few passes in the 10.90s
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:07 PM
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yea a friend of mine had a fuddle 3200 i think that was the stall size and it worked great!! im actually planning on running a 4000 hp series from them
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