I went to Mongomery Raceway today. A big thanks to Jake the snake for setting the event up. It was the first time I've ran my 02 WS6 at the track. See sig for mods. I have bolt-ons plus a MW 3000/2.5 str. I was hoping to break into the 12's.
I was more than pleased. I lowered my Nitto's to 20psi. Car was fully dressed including spare tire all the crap I had inside.

Launch RPM 1100 1300 1300
60' 1.819 1.923 2.011
1/8 8.049 8.206 8.303
mph 86.22 87.18 85.82
1/4 12.617 12.772 12.885
mph 107.87 110.02 107.73
Remarks good slight slight
launch spin spin
(Beat an
03 Cobra)

Launch RPM 800 2000 1800
60' 1.977 2.217 2.004
1/8 8.315 8.583 8.447
mph 85.30 85.75 85.32
1/4 12.921 13.164 13.055
mph 107.07 107.86 112.68
Remarks Did not Heavy Very
load TC spin heavy
spin
(MPH!!)

As you can see, loading the Nitto's with anything over 1200 rpms is ineffective. The 2.5 str will pull you out of the hole at 1000-1200 rpms nicely.
The 03 Cobra kill was great. He ran a 12.6 the pass earlier, so I was thinking it would be close. We ended up sitting in the stanging lanes for 5 minutes while rails and pro stock cars were allowed to pass the street cars to run. The whole time he left his car running. So did I. I knew the heat soak on the SC would kill him. It did. He ran a 13.534@104.71 to my 12.772. Sweet! Something to say for naturally aspirated.
Most of these above runs were made back to back, two by two.
The MW TC kicks **** people!
Any questions, feel free to ask!

<img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />

 

Why does it that converter kick ***? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Don't take this the wrong way, but i wouldn't be happy with that 60' with a conveter.

 

A 1.81 60' from a true 3000 stall is not bad. The fact that out of 6 runs, only one was below 1.9 60' is bothersome though.

 

Sorry how the board arranges the colums.
Three of the runs were below 2.0 60'.
My first run was the 1.8. After that, I experimented with loading up higher RPMs.
You can see in the remarks that the Nittos spun hard with anything over 1200 rpms. More tires and my times would be much better. Two of the 13 sec runs actually were from me lifting on launch, the car shifting to second, and the downshifting back to first when I got back into the gas. Low 13's with all that?
Last two runs I actually started keeping the RPMs down on launch and letting the STR pull me out.
How does this TC kick ***? 112.69 mph? 12.61 with basic bolt ons for $400? With a free stall and warranty, not to mention John at HPA will spend an hour on the phone talking to you to make sure you know what your getting. I hate a sloppy loose TC and John told me he could have the stator tightened up on a 2.0 or I could go with the 2.5. He warned me that some don't like the hard hit of the 2.5. I explained I grew up drive v-8s on donut tires and love hanging the rear out.
The 2.5 was for me. On the dyno, the TC only lost 3hp and would flash to 3800rpm. This is my daily driver. No SES codes, no lock up problems, nothing! Gas milage is uneffected.
Did I mention only $400? Thats how it kicks ***!

 

Why did your MPH vary so much? 107 when you made your best ET but 112 on some other run. That's ALOT of difference! What were some of the MPHs on the other runs? Guess I'm wondering if the 112 happened only once.

It'll be curious to see what you can do without the traction problem. There should be alot left there. I pulled 6 1.83-1.84s in a row Friday night with my Yank 2400 stall using Nittos. Best ET was 12.68 at 107.66. My MPHs were all 106-107. (Stock exhaust system, stock 3.23 gears.) This converter drives almost like stock. Most folks would think it is stock to drive it. Can't wait to get more converter. <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

<small>[ December 08, 2002, 07:05 PM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>

 

I am looking for a convert for my LS1, have been shopping around, I am putting a 4l60E trans. back in. I had a TH400 transmission conversion done in Jan.2002 but 10 months down the road my converter went out. Do you think Mid West can help me?
What I mean is will they stand behind their converter and not brush me off 10 months down the road and the TC is still under warranty. I work at Allison Transmission plant in Baltimore Maryland. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

<small>[ December 09, 2002, 04:57 PM: Message edited by: Fire Bottle ]</small>

 

Fire Bottle,

Did you buy a Yank TH400 conversion kit? From what I've heard, some shops in the Maryland area are telling people that it's not necessary to use the Yank LS1 to TH400 adapter plate. Yank will cover all converters for worksmanship when installed properly (for 2 years). However, Yank will not cover converter failures when racers do not use the adapter plate (because it puts unnecessary stress on the converter and tranny which can lead to premature failure).

So if you're mad because you listened to bad Transmission Shop advice that voided your converter warranty, don't get mad at Yank. If you used the complete Yank conversion kit on your TH400 conversion, then you should still have 14 months left on your converter warranty and Yank should cover the problems with the converter.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> Three of the runs were below 2.0 60'. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't want to beat on you, but a stock converter with nittos can consistently cut mid 1.9x 60' on a 01/02 model with your mods.

3 HP loss is impressive if the dyno was consistent. What did you do to lock-up the converter?

I saw your post said you flash to 3800 on the dyno. That's pretty low for a 3000; it doesn't indicate a very long shift extension, although if your efficency was truly 99%, that may be the offset.

Firebottle: TCS is local. If I didn't run a Yank, I'd use them. click on the sponsor link.

 

Ragtop how about ATI they are local also.

<small>[ December 08, 2002, 09:13 PM: Message edited by: Fire Bottle ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ragtop 99:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> Three of the runs were below 2.0 60'. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't want to beat on you, but a stock converter with nittos can consistently cut mid 1.9x 60' on a 01/02 model with your mods.

3 HP loss is impressive if the dyno was consistent. What did you do to lock-up the converter?

I saw your post said you flash to 3800 on the dyno. That's pretty low for a 3000; it doesn't indicate a very long shift extension, although if your efficency was truly 99%, that may be the offset.

Firebottle: TCS is local. If I didn't run a Yank, I'd use them. click on the sponsor link.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No problem. I saw another thread saying people hadn't heard much about these converter so I wanted to get some info out. BTW- I've had the converter six months now as a daily driver.
Traction was a factor. Another local was having a hell of a time with Nitto 315's.
My first run was very soon after track open and it was fresh. That was the 1.8. As the day went on, traction went away. Also, I had to be told to scrub my tires off on the apron because I was dragging a heavy amount of gravel on the lanes, so that had to kill traction.
As far as what a stock a4 can do, your comparing apples to oranges. These stock cars pulling those time were not at the track Sat. Most everyone with radial DR's were pulling 2.0-2.4 60 foot times. And none were turning consistant 107mph.
Most were at 104-105. As far as my 110 and 112 run, you tell me. I don't have a clue why such a heavy difference. All I know is I out ran a ls1 with a $1400 Venom N20 setup...and a 03 Cobra. Good enough for me.
The dyno operator flashed my stall on two different runs and said it flashed at 3800.
The third run he kept out of the throttle until about 4000 rpms then rolled into it. He did not know how to dyno a stall. I would have prefered he left it in second.
Mid West (John) says these stall TC's are 2800 but really closer to 3000. Whatever...it works.
There's a thread on LS1.com about the new Yank SS 3800. It's an excellent review of several different converters, one of them is the Vig 3200.
The times for the Vig3200 with BF-Gs are damn near the same as my numbers, so again...whatever.
This TC is a great buy for the guy that wants a strong performing, mild converter.
That's all I'm trying to get across. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

 

Vig3200 in my car with a lid, cutout, and nittos as the only mods cut 1.66 60' all night long. No drag tricks. 22psi in the nittos. Never had a lockup problem or drivability issues.

 

Fire bottle: I don't have experience with ATI, but I have been to TCS (before they became a sponsor) and seen a prototype TCS and it looked like a quality product. Enough local guys run them to have confidence in the results.

G-lock: If the dyno operator did not LS1Edit or a Tech II to lock-up the converter, you made all 3 runs unlocked and therefore you can not determine how much HP the converter eats.

 

4mulaJoe - Those sound like good numbers. Sounds like a good track. What was your et and mph? Not sure what your point is, if you had been at this track on this day I would say the same thing, good numbers. Good numbers from your $700+TC. Mine cost $400 - thats all I'm saying is its a good buy.

Ragtop 99 - as stated in the above post -
"The dyno operator flashed my stall on two different runs and said it flashed at 3800.
The third run he kept out of the throttle until about 4000 rpms then rolled into it. He did not know how to dyno a stall. "

Your right in that we could not get an accurate hp and torque on the first two runs. On the third run he stayed out of the gas until it locked up and then got onto the throttle.
Peak HP was measured in the locked up state at about 5200 rpm. Exactly the same as the stock TC was dyno'd.

Once again, this TC is a great buy for the guy that wants a strong performing, mild converter.
That's all I'm trying to get across.
Thanks for the feedback guys.

 

Glock:
I read your explanation but it doesn't sound like you understand what is meant by locking up the converter (or explanation isn't clear to me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> ). Rolling into the throttle at 4000 rpm is not locking up a converter. To lock-up at WOT requires a change in computer programming with EDIT or the use of a GM TECH II or similar device. If you had that capabilty, you would lock the converter at a much lower rpm, say 3000 rpm and get a true torque curve reading.

 

My bad, I should have explained a little better.
Yes, I realize the TC isn't going to lock up at lower rpms without outside assistance.
That is why the dyno operator rolled on the throttle to let the TC lock up and he kept out of the throttle until the higher rpms so the TC wouldn't flash and unlock.
It's fairly obvious when the TC locks on the graph. The torque curve drops from above 500ft-lbs down (along with RPMs)to a normal curve all the way to red line.
A real waste of money besides finding out what the 5000rpm+plus readings were.
I would've even accepted him running it locked in first, then second. Oh well...
I'm happy with my times.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by G-LOCK:
<strong>4mulaJoe - Those sound like good numbers. Sounds like a good track. What was your et and mph? Not sure what your point is, if you had been at this track on this day I would say the same thing, good numbers. Good numbers from your $700+TC. Mine cost $400 - thats all I'm saying is its a good buy.

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">12.6@106. Track prep was pretty good at HRP. It was 100* outside and humid though. Your analogy with the cost is going to net you a highly modded slow car in the end. You can skimp on some things(I do), but some things you can't. A good converter is the most important mod you could do to your car. My vigi was $675 I beleive. I sold it used for only $400 though and it was as good as new.

 

"That is why the dyno operator rolled on the throttle to let the TC lock up and he kept out of the throttle until the higher rpms so the TC wouldn't flash and unlock."

You're still not getting it. Sure, the PCM will lock the converter if you stay out of the throttle, but just as soon as you go to WOT the PCM will unlock the converter again.

The ONLY way you can get a locked dyno run is to manually lock the converter with a lockup switch or to make the computer do it for you with LS1Edit or a Tech II. There is NO getting around this I don't care what your dyno operator did or says.

At this point you do not know what your converter losses unlocked v/s locked.

Just tryin' to help you understand. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Thanks Colonel - If thats the case, then the 3 hp between both the stock TC and the MW were unlocked.

 

FYI: i went 12.80's with a yank 2800 with 1.80's, 3.23's, lid, cutout, FTRA, and nittos in hot weather so in decent weather im sure it would have pulled 12.6's-7's

the track prep had to suck, because on nittos@20psi when i was stock internal I cut 1.58-1.62's all day with a vig3600 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> 11.95@112 was my best ET...

so overall you arent doing half bad in my opinion... get to a decently prepped track and im sure the nittos will hook.. you have the 02mod and alot of guys are running 12.8's with just exhaust and lid so with a small converter you have 12.4 potential..

a guy in our club just went 11.95 with a vig2800 and 3.73's <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

bascially hang in there and your times will drop... its nice seeing others try different things. It took me a year to go from 12.3's to 11.9's with nothing different done to the car <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

I dont think those times are bad for a 3000 converter,A low 1.8 still with wheel spin sounds good to me, if track prep was better or the car just hooked better id call it a mid 17 60 ft. whats wrong with that for 450.00 sounds good to me.