Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

HARD POP on front driver's side after acceleration/in between shifts

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Old 02-18-2009, 01:43 PM
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Default HARD POP on front driver's side after acceleration/in between shifts

it sounds like there something wrong by the shock tower or a bushing loose or something. anytime i gun it (1st,2nd,3rd gear) and let off its a hard POP on my side as if the damn shock tower is going to pop through the hood. a simulation of this is if you would just hit a pot hole in between shifts.

i took it to the dealer and they show the driver's side motor mount destroyed, but i don't think that's what's causing this. even though i can agree with them on the motor mount as i feel vibration everytime i turn on/off the car and let off any gear slowly, but this just sounds totally different. i even hear the same pop if i go over a speed bump and land down.

any ideas?

thanks guys.

Tony
Old 02-18-2009, 01:56 PM
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Have you changed the mount?
Old 02-18-2009, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tony tone
it sounds like there something wrong by the shock tower or a bushing loose or something. anytime i gun it (1st,2nd,3rd gear) and let off its a hard POP on my side as if the damn shock tower is going to pop through the hood. a simulation of this is if you would just hit a pot hole in between shifts.

i took it to the dealer and they show the driver's side motor mount destroyed, but i don't think that's what's causing this. even though i can agree with them on the motor mount as i feel vibration everytime i turn on/off the car and let off any gear slowly, but this just sounds totally different. i even hear the same pop if i go over a speed bump and land down.

any ideas?

thanks guys.

Tony
I used to have an OLD taurus that used to do that also! It turned out to be the motor mounts... The loud pop I kept hearing was the actual engine hitting my under hood! When I went over bumps it would bounce the motor up into my hood... When going over a bump does it feel like the frame of the car is going in the opposite direction of the engine when you get over it?? Such as when your front tires get over the bump, your cars frame follows the shape of the bump while the motor just bounces up and down?(eg: engine goes up while frame goes down...)
Old 02-18-2009, 03:40 PM
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guess it could be bnecause when you gun the engine the motor torques and comes off the mount and when you let off to shift it slams back against the mount causing the sound. That could be y it doesnt do it when your not into it. example when you rev the motor and watch it the motor seems to twist a little. hey i hope that the motor mount is all that is wrong with it it would be better then having to do a whole of of stuff.
Old 02-18-2009, 03:48 PM
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do it soon, and (no offense) but for the time being, don't drive the car like an ***....it's broken-you know it's broken-you know just driving it isn't going to fix it.
The popping you here is the motor bouncing around hitting things it shouldn't. It may sound like a strut to you because sound does travel - and it will travel in stupid directions depending on what is around to transfer the sound. Take it easy on that car while the motor mount is broken. You could cause more damage by allowing the engine to bounce around. The sound is something hard hitting something hard. Get it fixed before you have to spend more money.
Again - I don't want to come across like an *** or anything to you, thats not my intention.

Also, ever think about prothene mounts? Now would be the time to install them.
Old 02-18-2009, 04:18 PM
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I had that problem, ended up being a bad shock.....
Old 02-18-2009, 06:16 PM
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Could be a shock or the Engine Mounts - If you replace the Mounts get the UUC ones, MUCH better than Stock
Old 02-18-2009, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 01350ss
do it soon, and (no offense) but for the time being, don't drive the car like an ***....it's broken-you know it's broken-you know just driving it isn't going to fix it.
The popping you here is the motor bouncing around hitting things it shouldn't. It may sound like a strut to you because sound does travel - and it will travel in stupid directions depending on what is around to transfer the sound. Take it easy on that car while the motor mount is broken. You could cause more damage by allowing the engine to bounce around. The sound is something hard hitting something hard. Get it fixed before you have to spend more money.
Again - I don't want to come across like an *** or anything to you, thats not my intention.

Also, ever think about prothene mounts? Now would be the time to install them.
no worries man. you have a valid point and i would seriously be stupid to start gunning it knowing there's a bad mount. i could even jeopardize the other ones.

now that this is has been established as far as the mount is concerned, i'm planning on boosting this baby one way or the other, so i'm pretty sure aftermarket mounts will be required unless the stock ones can hold a good amount of power (anyone know what they hold?). now, what do you guys think would be a good set that won't set me back too much and wont be so solid that the entire car is vibrating. i use hasport solid billet mounts on my integra and those vibrate like crazy.

and fwiw, i'm planning on having the same builder that built my integra build me a kit with twins for the V.
Old 02-18-2009, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CtsVrod
Could be a shock or the Engine Mounts - If you replace the Mounts get the UUC ones, MUCH better than Stock
much better in what sense?
Old 02-18-2009, 07:33 PM
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They can handle alot of power... The stockers can barely handle the stock 400.

If you plan on Boosting the V - the only Real Viable option is Butt Mounted Setup that STS makes - otherwise its not really worth the Fab work/Cost.

Maggie is the easiest most cost effective way to go with a Power adder
Old 02-18-2009, 07:39 PM
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twin turbos! your playing with fire. what are going to do about a rear?
Old 02-18-2009, 07:47 PM
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i was thinking of the maggs, but it's almost as if it's limited in power. say i end up grenading my dif and end up getting a ridiculous setup that holds 1000whp just for kicks. on the magnus setup, isn't it pretty much 500whp where things end? smaller pulleys maybe just a bit more? with a turbo setup, the possibilites are endless.

idk, maybe i'm wrong, or maybe i'm just used to turbocharging since working with my integra.
Old 02-19-2009, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by tony tone
i was thinking of the maggs, but it's almost as if it's limited in power. say i end up grenading my dif and end up getting a ridiculous setup that holds 1000whp just for kicks. on the magnus setup, isn't it pretty much 500whp where things end? smaller pulleys maybe just a bit more? with a turbo setup, the possibilites are endless.

idk, maybe i'm wrong, or maybe i'm just used to turbocharging since working with my integra.
Dude go TT all the way! once I get my V im gonna save for the STS setup... Make sure to post up a build thread when you start getting the work done! I know WE ALL would love to see it come together... And who has to worry about lag when you have almost 400ft lbs of torque to the crank...


p.s. psi on turbos can be controled just as easy as the psi on the supercharger... I think STS has it set to 5 or 6psi and making 500 to the crank(correct me if im wrong) and the turbos are interchangable...
Old 02-19-2009, 10:51 AM
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500+ at the crank since the RWHP on the STS system at 5 lbs of boost is dynoed at 481.
Old 02-19-2009, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 92nsx
500+ at the crank since the RWHP on the STS system at 5 lbs of boost is dynoed at 481.
Hmmm.... I wonder what it would be at 12psi of boost??? shouldnt it be double the crank hp?
Old 02-19-2009, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by adanieljohnson1
Hmmm.... I wonder what it would be at 12psi of boost??? shouldnt it be double the crank hp?
i would say bye bye to my rear with the power 12psi would put down. how much does a good rear diff setup run anyways? I assume it includes a shaft.
Old 02-19-2009, 02:51 PM
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6-7k for a Viper Diff swap - Other than that your screwed.
Old 02-19-2009, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by adanieljohnson1
Hmmm.... I wonder what it would be at 12psi of boost??? shouldnt it be double the crank hp?

NO way, maybe another 100-150, but OEM LS6 would go BOOM. The compression ratio is way to high for a boosted engine. 5-6 lbs, max. And hope to hell you dont get denotation, even at 5-6 lbs. Any more boost you will have to run straight 110 octane to prevent it from pre-denotation.

Turbo engines have low compression ratio for a reason

The biggest problem I have with my 7MGTE (supra) is blowing out the spark at high boost. I think im down to 22 thou on my plugs for high boost.
Old 02-19-2009, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CtsVrod
6-7k for a Viper Diff swap - Other than that your screwed.
there has to be other aftermarket rear dif options for the V.
Old 02-19-2009, 05:20 PM
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hey, fwiw, my neighbor who is the renaissance man of my generation (can build you a house, a car, anything) went around with me in my car and clearly thinks it's a mount issue. the dealer sounds like they're willing to just send me a check so we'll see. i'll keep you guys posted.


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