Think my starters going out...
12-27-2009, 02:55 PM
#1
Think my starters going out... It will just click.. I'm able to eventually get her to crank up and also read how that could also be caused by connector wires being frayed on the bottom? but I'm short on money and need to do the install my self! If anyone has a step by step on how to replace it then I would be very thankful.. Not sure if I should attack it from under or on top... I have NEVER installed a starter and hope that it can be done by a newbie as long as I can follow the instructions...
12-27-2009, 03:17 PM
#2
The most likely causes of the symptoms you describe are (1) the battery (2) the starter relay/solenoid, (3) loose connections or ground, and then (4) the starter.
If it is the starter, replacement it is not complex but can be difficult without the right tools. Basically, you lift the car or put it on jackstands. Support the exhaust system in the middle of the car and disconnect the catback system from the right side catalytic converter. Remove the right side catalytic converter. (This is best done with an air impact wrench unless you are lucky or have very low mileage.) Then the starter is accessible. It can be tricky to get out, but that part is a trial & error process getting past the surrounding parts.
If it is the starter, replacement it is not complex but can be difficult without the right tools. Basically, you lift the car or put it on jackstands. Support the exhaust system in the middle of the car and disconnect the catback system from the right side catalytic converter. Remove the right side catalytic converter. (This is best done with an air impact wrench unless you are lucky or have very low mileage.) Then the starter is accessible. It can be tricky to get out, but that part is a trial & error process getting past the surrounding parts.
12-27-2009, 03:18 PM
#3
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its passenger side of the car you gotta jack the car up or put it on ramps two bolt hold it on and disconnect wires to it its pretty easy a basic socket set should get you on your way and remove the battery power cable before you do anything....
12-29-2009, 04:27 PM
#4
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Make sure you do not have a battery problem before you dive into the starter. I've seen corrosion between the battery and positive terminal. You will get a good enough voltage reading when checking the battery voltage, but under the heavy amperage draw placed when starting the car, is when the problem will occur. 1st, disconnect your negative and then your positive terminals. Clean each one, especially the positive, as that is more likely to build corrosion. You can also run a battery load test.
Just don't want you to get into a starter change before you do the neccessary checks.
good luck
Just don't want you to get into a starter change before you do the neccessary checks.
good luck
12-29-2009, 05:59 PM
#5
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I had some minor starting issues on day, then a week later the battery just totaly died.
Replaced it and its been fine ever since.
How many miles or years on your current battery?
Replaced it and its been fine ever since.
How many miles or years on your current battery?
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12-29-2009, 08:12 PM
#8
+1 on the post by Stepside.
The starter/flywheel proximity and flywheel tooth count is the same on both the CTS-V and the LS1/2/3/6/7 Corvettes. The only different flywheel configuration that I'm aware of is the spacer or long crank flange setup used on the earlier trucks/vans (pre-'02) and all motors with the 4L80E transmissions prior to '04.
Many LS-powered vehicles had a long-short bolt configuration on the nose while the more current starters use 2 long bolts (read: stronger, more rigid nose). Although there's (supposedly) no difference in power, many folks will opt for the latter during replacement or builds due to the strength issue.
Generally, the starter motor usage break is at 5.3L and below or 5.7L and above. As a couple of examples, the 10.9 6.0L in my truck is beginning to have it's way with the starter (OEM 4.8L) and the starter will need replacing soon while the OEM 5.7L LS6 starter has no problem at all with the 11.28 cr 7.0L.
Also, heat (especially from uncoated headers or close proximity to the catalytic converter) can be a factor in starter life. I used an LPE starter shield on my V and truck.
The starter/flywheel proximity and flywheel tooth count is the same on both the CTS-V and the LS1/2/3/6/7 Corvettes. The only different flywheel configuration that I'm aware of is the spacer or long crank flange setup used on the earlier trucks/vans (pre-'02) and all motors with the 4L80E transmissions prior to '04.
Many LS-powered vehicles had a long-short bolt configuration on the nose while the more current starters use 2 long bolts (read: stronger, more rigid nose). Although there's (supposedly) no difference in power, many folks will opt for the latter during replacement or builds due to the strength issue.
Generally, the starter motor usage break is at 5.3L and below or 5.7L and above. As a couple of examples, the 10.9 6.0L in my truck is beginning to have it's way with the starter (OEM 4.8L) and the starter will need replacing soon while the OEM 5.7L LS6 starter has no problem at all with the 11.28 cr 7.0L.
Also, heat (especially from uncoated headers or close proximity to the catalytic converter) can be a factor in starter life. I used an LPE starter shield on my V and truck.
Last edited by scatillac; 12-29-2009 at 08:24 PM.
01-01-2010, 10:02 PM
#9
Got an update! And im confused as hell!!! I try to start my car and it just clicks. But if I pump my breaks until I feel the pressure on the peddle then she cranks right over!!! WTF?? Why is it that she wont start unless I pump my breaks first? please help!!!
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