Diff install
#22
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Prob get the money back selling both my 04/05 diffs anyway...
#23
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it's out! honestly a fairly easy task. last night was setting up, dropping the exhaust and the driveshaft. so tonight i started in on the rr hub assembly.
i simply pulled the brakes off, and each 34mm axle nut (discard)
then loosen the upper ball joint nut and then pry apart the joint. i used a picklefork, but many things would prolly work.
then the trailing arm, the toe rod, and the lower shock mount. (one bolt each)
stick a floor jack under the lca so the spring doesnt slam it down and remove the bolt on the lower control arm and the hub is free. (after that bj nut is fully removed.
make sure the abs plug is unplugged but the hub is safe to hang from the e-brake cable
let the jack down and pull the hub off of the axle. then the axle needs one or two good yanks and it pops out of the diff.
next put the jack under the diff, and remove the front bolt first and each of the two rears
i took and put a prybar in between the diff and the d/s cv and popped it out.
with all three bolts out, test the waters by slowly letting down the jack. then its just a matter of getting the d/s axle all the way out, getting apart from the driveshaft enough and slipping the diff case out from its cradle and letting it down
pull it out from underneath and simply pull the d/s axleshaft towards the p/s from underneath and the d/s hub assembly can stay together.
now i wait for parts and this is prolly confusing so i might make a better detailed post with pics when its all said and done and the car actually runs again lol i dnt wanna say all this and find out i did it wrong and it fell apart on me
i simply pulled the brakes off, and each 34mm axle nut (discard)
then loosen the upper ball joint nut and then pry apart the joint. i used a picklefork, but many things would prolly work.
then the trailing arm, the toe rod, and the lower shock mount. (one bolt each)
stick a floor jack under the lca so the spring doesnt slam it down and remove the bolt on the lower control arm and the hub is free. (after that bj nut is fully removed.
make sure the abs plug is unplugged but the hub is safe to hang from the e-brake cable
let the jack down and pull the hub off of the axle. then the axle needs one or two good yanks and it pops out of the diff.
next put the jack under the diff, and remove the front bolt first and each of the two rears
i took and put a prybar in between the diff and the d/s cv and popped it out.
with all three bolts out, test the waters by slowly letting down the jack. then its just a matter of getting the d/s axle all the way out, getting apart from the driveshaft enough and slipping the diff case out from its cradle and letting it down
pull it out from underneath and simply pull the d/s axleshaft towards the p/s from underneath and the d/s hub assembly can stay together.
now i wait for parts and this is prolly confusing so i might make a better detailed post with pics when its all said and done and the car actually runs again lol i dnt wanna say all this and find out i did it wrong and it fell apart on me
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#26
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its what stopped us from getting a V. I researched for weeks about the rear and had a chance to see bobs 900+rwhp V with the madman ford 9" rear but for 7500 bucks wheeeew-eee no thanks. even axles and the latest revision of the 07 diff will set you back 4k+
I just dont think a car is worth having to dump a few grand jsut to get a **** poor rear to hold up to stock power.
now with that being said I have heard of a few people discussing the newest V series rear into an older one. it does require the new gas tank and rear cradle similar to swapping a C5 vettes rear with an 06+
I just dont think a car is worth having to dump a few grand jsut to get a **** poor rear to hold up to stock power.
now with that being said I have heard of a few people discussing the newest V series rear into an older one. it does require the new gas tank and rear cradle similar to swapping a C5 vettes rear with an 06+
#28
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What do u guys think I should do with my stock stuff? A whiney leaking diff and both full stock axles (stub to stub)? Is the diff case alum? Should I gut it and bring it to aluminum scrapyard? Is there a core company somewhere that would take it? Or the axles? There in perfect shape they're just stock n I got the real deal Hendrix now lol
#29
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What do u guys think I should do with my stock stuff? A whiney leaking diff and both full stock axles (stub to stub)? Is the diff case alum? Should I gut it and bring it to aluminum scrapyard? Is there a core company somewhere that would take it? Or the axles? There in perfect shape they're just stock n I got the real deal Hendrix now lol
Good thing is its the original 04 diff in my car with 103k on it now so you know the car hasn't been beat on. lol
#30
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its what stopped us from getting a V. I researched for weeks about the rear and had a chance to see bobs 900+rwhp V with the madman ford 9" rear but for 7500 bucks wheeeew-eee no thanks. even axles and the latest revision of the 07 diff will set you back 4k+
I just dont think a car is worth having to dump a few grand jsut to get a **** poor rear to hold up to stock power.
now with that being said I have heard of a few people discussing the newest V series rear into an older one. it does require the new gas tank and rear cradle similar to swapping a C5 vettes rear with an 06+
I just dont think a car is worth having to dump a few grand jsut to get a **** poor rear to hold up to stock power.
now with that being said I have heard of a few people discussing the newest V series rear into an older one. it does require the new gas tank and rear cradle similar to swapping a C5 vettes rear with an 06+
#31
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it's out! honestly a fairly easy task. last night was setting up, dropping the exhaust and the driveshaft. so tonight i started in on the rr hub assembly.
i simply pulled the brakes off, and each 34mm axle nut (discard)
then loosen the upper ball joint nut and then pry apart the joint. i used a picklefork, but many things would prolly work.
then the trailing arm, the toe rod, and the lower shock mount. (one bolt each)
stick a floor jack under the lca so the spring doesnt slam it down and remove the bolt on the lower control arm and the hub is free. (after that bj nut is fully removed.
make sure the abs plug is unplugged but the hub is safe to hang from the e-brake cable
let the jack down and pull the hub off of the axle. then the axle needs one or two good yanks and it pops out of the diff.
next put the jack under the diff, and remove the front bolt first and each of the two rears
i took and put a prybar in between the diff and the d/s cv and popped it out.
with all three bolts out, test the waters by slowly letting down the jack. then its just a matter of getting the d/s axle all the way out, getting apart from the driveshaft enough and slipping the diff case out from its cradle and letting it down
pull it out from underneath and simply pull the d/s axleshaft towards the p/s from underneath and the d/s hub assembly can stay together.
now i wait for parts and this is prolly confusing so i might make a better detailed post with pics when its all said and done and the car actually runs again lol i dnt wanna say all this and find out i did it wrong and it fell apart on me![Embarassed](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_emb.gif)
i simply pulled the brakes off, and each 34mm axle nut (discard)
then loosen the upper ball joint nut and then pry apart the joint. i used a picklefork, but many things would prolly work.
then the trailing arm, the toe rod, and the lower shock mount. (one bolt each)
stick a floor jack under the lca so the spring doesnt slam it down and remove the bolt on the lower control arm and the hub is free. (after that bj nut is fully removed.
make sure the abs plug is unplugged but the hub is safe to hang from the e-brake cable
let the jack down and pull the hub off of the axle. then the axle needs one or two good yanks and it pops out of the diff.
next put the jack under the diff, and remove the front bolt first and each of the two rears
i took and put a prybar in between the diff and the d/s cv and popped it out.
with all three bolts out, test the waters by slowly letting down the jack. then its just a matter of getting the d/s axle all the way out, getting apart from the driveshaft enough and slipping the diff case out from its cradle and letting it down
pull it out from underneath and simply pull the d/s axleshaft towards the p/s from underneath and the d/s hub assembly can stay together.
now i wait for parts and this is prolly confusing so i might make a better detailed post with pics when its all said and done and the car actually runs again lol i dnt wanna say all this and find out i did it wrong and it fell apart on me
![Embarassed](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_emb.gif)
I am doing axles and come upon this post through a search. I am having troubles separating the hub/knuckle from the axle itself, I have the knuckle free of all connections except the cv joint splines. I have the 34mm nut removed. Am I getting this right you just pull on it while the axle is still hooked into the diff and the hub/knuckle just comes right off? Is there any special technique or trick to this other than just brute force to pull it straight off?