ITSAV

iTrader: (1)

hey guys just ordered my longtubes, and am now trying to figure out what would be the best combo here.......the cam I am looking at is http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=167&catid=44

unless you guys have a better recommendation, this car is my dd, and I dont want a massive cam, I want you to me able to tell its there when its idling, but dont want it super lopey or anything.......and also what valvetrain parts would you guys recommend, I am thinking springs, retainers, pushrods, anything else you guys would recommend and what would you recommend for the parts listed above??

Thanks

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Can't beat a custom grind cam if its speced right, and the price difference is only about 25 bucks. I was gonna do that same exact cam but opted for a cutsom grind since my tuner/installer said he would rec a 231/235 cam.

I pick mine up fronm the shop tomorrow who just put my cam in...

I went with PAtriot gold springs, hardened pushrods, melling high volume oil pump(recommended if more then 30k miles) or you could pick up a ported ls6 pump, and the cam was a Comp LSR lobe cam. Parts total was like 1k. I have a thread like two under this with my build.

BTW i wanted the same out of my car as you, sound and perforamcne without sacrificng driveability. I went with a 114LSA to calm the idle down a tad.

whisler151

Thats a great cam. I almost went with that one, but ended up with a custom cam from my shop. On a side note, i'm not sure how that cam would be in our heavy cars. You can definitely have one spec'd that will perform better in the V. A great off the shelf cam though.

As far as springs and rods. I went with this http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=175&catid=49. I got the high lift PRC springs due to the high lift of my cam.

CTS-V LEE

iTrader: (1)

Go with crane cams...232/236,605,605 111.5+2 and any dual valve spring should do...7.4 chromoly push rods, double roller timing chain set and ur good to go...this cam will get u over 400 rwhp guarented and has better drivablity than u would think

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

LS2 chain, no need for the double roller, i hear they are a pain in the ***.

ITSAV

iTrader: (1)

see I was told to not go over 600 lift, cause it starts to make it less daily driveability.....

big reg

iTrader: (28)

The duration and particularly LSA determine drivability more so than lift.

ITSAV

iTrader: (1)

ok, so someone I know locally was saying I should go with 112 LSA, but I know 114 LSA is going to be smoother, is there a particular that you would recommend, because on his GTO the 112 didnt sound extremely lopey or anything like that...you could tell it was there, but it wasn't bad

whisler151

My lift is above .600 on both. If you want to talk cams, do not listen to what most "internet mechanics" say on these forums. Everyone acts like an expert. Call a few shops and talk with them. That's what I did and quickly found out that a lot of what I was reading in the forums was crap. I was warned about going over .625 lift several times. Once I talked to shops that actually do this for a living I felt comfortable with my cam.

I wanted a driveable cam that would get me to the magical 400rwhp number. I ended up with a VERY high lift cam on a 111LSA. I daily drive my V and love it.

SoCA04V

I had mine spec'd but Patrick G on the forum here. I am installing it tonight/tomorrow and tuned on Wednesday. I was worried it was going to be too small of a cam, but the pros know the right specs.

222/226/597/598 115+3

(note: I specifically asked for a cam spec'd for me not using long tube headers also)

2c5s

iTrader: (11)

I've been running cams well over .640 lift for 4 years with no issues. The trick is to have the vavletrain set up properly. Starting with a quality spring to control the valve.