jerrycecco

anyone running the BMR toe rods?

I thinking of ordering a set this week for $285

I heard the BMR Toe rods SHOULD improve handling and especially cornering at track events....

any and all (good and bad comments) appreciated...

post and email me directly at jerrycecco@tx.rr.com

Big Bu Bu

iTrader: (4)

I'd be curious as well. Interested in finding out about the noise/vibration.

What happened to TKS fab and their set?

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

Your alignment guy is going to crap. They are difficult to adjust since the jam nuts are at the ends of the shafts. Plus the price is excessive. I am making my own with spherical endlinks that have longer shanks to connect to a female left/right hand threaded adjuster that will allow much easier adjustment and much lower cost. If you are interested, I'll buy enough material for a couple sets and you can have a set.

04CTSVMURDERED

I'd like to see those, post some pictures when you get em/ made and/or installed, thanks.

Ron

scatillac

iTrader: (12)

If your car will also see street duty, you'll get a bit less noise and more reliability is you get some of the high-end lined Heims instead of the regular metal to metal versions.

Metal to metal types can be used successfully if you use a high quality lube and some seals.

For street use, you should always run dust seals to aid in the rod end's longevity regardless of rod end type.

jerrycecco

I'd be interested too...
since you say BMR are high price, what's your estimate on yours?
time to ship?
pictures?

jerrycecc@tx.rr.com

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

A vendor is sending me a used toe rod so I can take measurements and see what parts I need. But I think I can make them for less than $200 easily, and yes use rod end seals. I have a bunch of SAE size seals, not sure if they'll fit. I'd use either teflon or nylon lined links. Metal to metal would wear out too quickly. I'm finishing up my swaybar endlinks right now. That was my first project. They've been running pretty well with my GMPD swaybars. I made 4 sets.

PowerFiend

I would be interested in seeing pics of your swaybar setup.

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

I'll upload one of the completed links as soon as I can. They are made with high strength sealed balljoints, similar to Powergrids. I can also make a set for cars that are lowered an extreme amount, but the endlinks would be spherical bearings, not sealed balljoints. What I made can easily handle the drop a set of H&Rs provide. That was my intention when I made them since I planned on eventually installing a set of H&R springs.

If someone has an old toe rod to send me, I'll be able to build a replacement, and offer that individual a deal to be one of my testers. Otherwise, I'll probably just see if a local dealership will let me measure one that's on their shelf.

IMHO, a toe rod that will set the toe more securely will net better handling and grip on acceleration and braking.

ahahnu

I just did the BMR Toe Rods and Trailing Arms. So far traction off the line is greatly improved. Cornering feels, "different." It definitely grips more, I'm just not used to it. I like them so far. Just ordered summer tires, and I can give you a better assessment then.

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

Good to know. I think the toe setting wiggles around wtih the OEM toe rods on acceleration and deceleration, affecting tire grip either way.

jerrycecco

Did you install or were they install by shop?
I'm interested in the toe rods...

Let me know corner characteristics.....especially high speed...
Can you further define "different"?
.....better, flatter, noisey, boucier, tighter etc...?

Lubelizard said he's making some soon too....

jerrycecco@tx.rr.com

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

May take me a couple weeks between taking measurements and getting the parts, but I wager that the overall cost is going to be less than the cost for what else is out there. I'll have to have a tester, along with myself, to test them out before I would be satisfied selling them to others.

Seems like some of you with the BMR toe rods have the OEM rods available for me to take measurements. Can you send one to me? I'll cover shipping, and send it back to you after I get the measurements.

jerrycecco

[QUOTE=lubelizard;13351337]May take me a couple weeks between taking measurements and getting the parts, but I wager that the overall cost is going to be less than the cost for what else is out there. I'll have to have a tester, along with myself, to test them out before I would be satisfied selling them to others.

I'll test, I have shop install and get a professional alignment
then test both on the street and on the track...

jerrycecco@tx.rr.com

Big Bu Bu

iTrader: (4)

Noise? Vibration? What about the claim they are hard to adjust?

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=jerrycecco;13351378]That's what I'll need, some track time to really see how they hold up. The endlinks are either going to be teflon or nylon lined, depends on how long I can get the shanks. I'll email you.

What makes the BMR toe rods difficult to adjust is the location of the jam nuts. Their location makes them very difficult to reach since they're surrounded by the boxed in areas of the suspension.

ahahnu

]There is a pic on the cadi forum somewhere showing how close the surrounding area is for the adjustments. The instructions (I read them yes, long story involves Nintendo and my mom beating me) say to premeasure against the ones you remove. All good if your alignment is straight to begin with, mine wasn't.

None so far that I can tell.

I didn't install, had a shop do it. I was away when they did it otherwise I can usually help where I go.

Take into consideration I already have coil overs, sways, and a Kars kit. My car was riding real flat to begin with. I also did trailing arms at the same time. The difference I really noticed when getting the car back was traction off the line. I'll have to try it out more tomorrow and get back to you. Also running winter tires still and traction is reduced.

ahahnu

Quick impression, it feels like it pulls into the turn more. As I go around a sharp turn it's definitely flatter, but the front and rear make the turn sharper. Like the more I turn the wheel the more aggressive it gets. Not like yeah the more you turn the wheel the more the car turns. The more you turn the wheel, it turns sharper for the same input as before.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

My alignment guy wasn't happy about where the jam nut is located.

When I installed them. I found that the spacer widths were off and I had to stack shim/washers to make up for the slop before I could torque them.

SilveradoSS500

This is a must Jerry, I had them on my CTSV!