OiReLaV

I did a search and saw people are changing the tubing in the intake and still sending it into the stock box, with a KandN drop-in filter.

Has anyone ever done that same tubing and left a KandN cone filter in the place of the stock box? So same idea as the stealthV copy, but instead of using the drop-in, take out the box and throw on an "open-cone" intake with no box?

Dumb? or just never tried?

Comments?

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Oonly thing about running an open cone with no heat shield is your gonna be sucking ina ll hot air. I picked up my K&N on ebay brand new in box for 256 shipped.

bamacaddy

iTrader: (1)

There are a few of home made CAI's on here...I saw one that used a garbage can for the heat barrier. I'm sure you'll get some willing to share on here.

deedubb

iTrader: (9)

I tried to make my own from a C5 battery shroud. It looks like an epileptic Edward Scissor Hands creation though. I'd love to buy a shroud from someone without having to buy the whole damn CAI. I don't need the tube anyway.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

I was surprised at how (relatively cool) the filter area stays and imagine boxed [upcoming project] it would be even better. I am more concerned with the tubing from filter to TB...that gets hot and acts likie a heat sink of sorts; why I don't want metal to avoid heat soak as much as possible...

OiReLaV

It is pretty well shown that small sections of metal piping, like the 9" or so of aluminum piping most use in their intakes doesn't heat soak the bypassing air for one simple reason.

The air is moving so quickly, there just isn't time to transfer the heat. With that said, I use some insulation when i did it on my GTP and will be doing the same on this one.

I use some kind of adhesive reflective foil insulation secured on with all weather tape and another form of reflective insulation over that. Thats what I did on my GTP and i saw IAT temps of under 5*F over ambient.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

Of course the air moves past it, but air doesn't move so fast (enough) in LA traffic, when it's 90 degrees out This air will act like a fan anyhow and pull in radiant heat from the metal...I'm sure it doesn't make a huge difference 90-something percent of the time, but gonna use something that I don't need to worry about.

I have 304 SS intercooling tube on my galant and it doesn't get terrible, but works under pressure (25+ psig) [vs. using a thermoplastic, etc) and in addition to a huge IC, gonna run water injection so it shouldn't be an issue...Wouldn't mind doing something similar to the CTS also (course it's NA), but in a secret way

the jester 812

iTrader: (5)

well, if your in traffic, then you probably dont need to worry too much about the ??10-15hp ?? you might lose from sucking in hot air. unless you need to punch it to keep that a-hole from cutting in front of you.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

lol...well, here you never know what you need to do, ha ha.

No, it's not the immediate "power loss" I'm concerned with; it just takes awhile to cool off and the car just doesn't feel right (when heat soaked) and not as much to drive, if that makes sense...

Don't get me wrong, I love the look of stainless steel and work with it a fair amount and same thing with aluminum, but I like to be creative too and not have this shiny tube under there by itself, if that makes sense...Yeah, I can paint aluminum (or anodize would be cool), but gonna see what else is out there and wrapping things can look crude, unless you put cladding (outer metal thin shell). However, effective insulation needs to be either extremely dense or thick or both...

This whole intake will be fully custom including the "shield" area and pickups, so ought to be fun! It has to fit the rest of the car and not only look better than yet sort of oem-ish (this is a subtle car for me), but the final product is it's all in the details.

Would be interesting to lay out some thermocouplers around the engine compartment and log temps, just for curiosity.

OiReLaV

In my ole GTP, obviously the intake was terrible, which is why everyone went big pipes and big filters right off the bat.

After reading around, it seems to be understood, and i kinda agree, that with the power i plan to run (only intake and exhaust as mods), spending mass amount of money on an intake won't do much.

I plan on doing the whole, replace the junky piping and use a drop in KN filter. Besides, that will keep it looking stock-ish i guess, lol.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, you'll probably be good with that, as long as you just replace that accordion crimped plastic tube and replace it with something nice...the MAS is ~3.75" and the throttle body ~3.50", (iirc could be the other way around so gonna check my notes when I get back, as I need to buy something soon), so just keep that in mind with your couplers. They do make 3.5 to 3.75" silicone reducers and even reducing elbows...www.siliconeintakes.com has a good selection and decent prices. I bought a bunch of black to get rid of the ricer blue ones on my vr-4 and have been real happy, fwiw. Don't need any fancy worm (hose) clamps, so just look for the ones with the inner sleeve to protect the coupler; pass on the overpriced T-bolt and such, lol. It's not under pressure, but may not hurt to have a bead (nipple) on the tubing ends. That way, the sealing does not rely on having to tighten the clamps a whole lot.

Oh yeah, at the front of the radiator shroud support, sort of by the headlight, behind the grill, there is a rubber elbow that is pointed up; it is riveted to the side and pita to get out, but you could probably get some gains by eliminating it, for more direct flow into the air cleaner assy., although probably have more dirt on your filter; just clean it more, I guess, no biggie.

Good luck and yeah I need to do this too! I'm gonna do the long cone, mainly cause I got a good deal at Pep Boys with some coupons and only paid like $30 for it Otherwise, drop-in should be fine. IMO, Cadillac did a good job on the intake in that area, for oem.