Endlink's Installation
#1
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Finally picked up some new front swaybar endlinks (Moog) and ready to install them this weekend. The directions do not mention anything about preloading the suspension upon tightening, but I was under the impression you normally preload (have weight of vehicle) any suspension components, such as control arms and swaybars and such.
So, is this true on our swaybars, as well? They are a little different design than the older type (bolt with sleeve and bushings), so am wondering if it's OK to tighten them down if the vehicle is raised up and suspension dropping? If not, how did you guys do this w/o a lift? I was thinking of raising the vehicle onto something under the wheels, then letting the car back down, to have the weight down, yet allow clearance. But what though. makes me nervous thinking about using wood pieces, etc.
So, is this true on our swaybars, as well? They are a little different design than the older type (bolt with sleeve and bushings), so am wondering if it's OK to tighten them down if the vehicle is raised up and suspension dropping? If not, how did you guys do this w/o a lift? I was thinking of raising the vehicle onto something under the wheels, then letting the car back down, to have the weight down, yet allow clearance. But what though. makes me nervous thinking about using wood pieces, etc.
#3
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OK, cool and will make things a lot easier, if that's the case! I am thinking since these have "tie rod" ends, they should be able to be installed that way, but wanted to be 100%. Trying to be rid of this problem (bad endlinks) for good ![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
btw - curious if you had a front end 'shake' on braking when your links were bad? I hear a clunk and feels loose here and there upon shifting weight, but the biggest issue for me right now is an oscillating front end and shaky steering front end when I put the brakes on lightly. I do not feel anything thru the brake pedal, so it seems like something other than warped rotors.
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btw - curious if you had a front end 'shake' on braking when your links were bad? I hear a clunk and feels loose here and there upon shifting weight, but the biggest issue for me right now is an oscillating front end and shaky steering front end when I put the brakes on lightly. I do not feel anything thru the brake pedal, so it seems like something other than warped rotors.
#5
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Oh no (for me) then, if it's not the endlinks...ugh. Well, I know they are pretty much shot anyway, so will keep my fingers crossed.
I thought maybe rotors, since I am using ceramic pads, but don't feel it other than thru the steering wheel (and the car shakes), although you can 'see' the car shaking up and down. Frustrating and pisses me off, lol.
I thought maybe rotors, since I am using ceramic pads, but don't feel it other than thru the steering wheel (and the car shakes), although you can 'see' the car shaking up and down. Frustrating and pisses me off, lol.
#6
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Well, you wouldn't feel warped rotors through the pedal...you'd feel buildup on the pedal...the pistons just move back and forth inside the calipers so nothing gets transmitted back to the pedal.
Curious though, why would you think sway bar end links would cause a shaking under braking????
Curious though, why would you think sway bar end links would cause a shaking under braking????
#7
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I was thinking if the tierod ends of the endlinks were bad/loose (or the nut attaching, although I've checked torque) that it could cause enough play there to have the front control arms be able to move about by themselves, if that at all makes any sense (can visualize, but expaining is hard right now)...Sounds weird, but my boss had a similar thing happen on his expedition, where his endlink was bad and it caused all sort of shaking upon braking only.
Well, I guess I hopefully will at least get rid of the clunk and loose feeling of the front end and curious if it affects braking at all. I have a feeling it may indeed be my rotors.
Well, I guess I hopefully will at least get rid of the clunk and loose feeling of the front end and curious if it affects braking at all. I have a feeling it may indeed be my rotors.
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#8
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Well, got them installed and it really was not that bad other than removing the funky oem links (using hex key and wrench)....It's handy to jack up the control arm or swaybar at times for alignment though, but otherwise pretty straightforward.
The Moog units do seem to be a little beefier than the stockers, so that's good. Took a pic (left is oem; right moog), but it's hard to tell there...
Took it for a quick spin and no more clunk so far and little tighter feeling and not sure yet on the brake part (true test will be next week in the commute). Glad one thing's done and now onto the next, yay.
btw - anybody know the torque you're suppose to use on the endlinks? I really need to get me a manual
The Moog units do seem to be a little beefier than the stockers, so that's good. Took a pic (left is oem; right moog), but it's hard to tell there...
Took it for a quick spin and no more clunk so far and little tighter feeling and not sure yet on the brake part (true test will be next week in the commute). Glad one thing's done and now onto the next, yay.
btw - anybody know the torque you're suppose to use on the endlinks? I really need to get me a manual
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#9
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I've got that clunk too. Where did you order the end links? My rears have already started backing out once. I think i'm going to replace all 4 of them.
#10
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I ended up ordering mine from RockAuto as they have some of the best prices and a good amount of selection in brands. They have chinese specials for $8, but I would pay the extra for the Moog, which were ~$30 for the front (each), iirc. If you look online they have 5% discount codes, too.
If you're in a hurry I saw that Napa carries them, although they are ~$45 and not sure the brand (although they typically carry good stuff)...Just don't waste your money and time going to the dealer, as the oem ones are not as nice as these, anyway.
Yeah, gonna drive it some more soon and curious to see how well they work...I would like to find some poly bushings for the bar and think energy sells something we can use (universal).
If you're in a hurry I saw that Napa carries them, although they are ~$45 and not sure the brand (although they typically carry good stuff)...Just don't waste your money and time going to the dealer, as the oem ones are not as nice as these, anyway.
Yeah, gonna drive it some more soon and curious to see how well they work...I would like to find some poly bushings for the bar and think energy sells something we can use (universal).
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I ended up ordering mine from RockAuto as they have some of the best prices and a good amount of selection in brands. They have chinese specials for $8, but I would pay the extra for the Moog, which were ~$30 for the front (each), iirc. If you look online they have 5% discount codes, too.
If you're in a hurry I saw that Napa carries them, although they are ~$45 and not sure the brand (although they typically carry good stuff)...Just don't waste your money and time going to the dealer, as the oem ones are not as nice as these, anyway.
Yeah, gonna drive it some more soon and curious to see how well they work...I would like to find some poly bushings for the bar and think energy sells something we can use (universal).
If you're in a hurry I saw that Napa carries them, although they are ~$45 and not sure the brand (although they typically carry good stuff)...Just don't waste your money and time going to the dealer, as the oem ones are not as nice as these, anyway.
Yeah, gonna drive it some more soon and curious to see how well they work...I would like to find some poly bushings for the bar and think energy sells something we can use (universal).
#12
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No problem and it's a good place to get some stuff (selection for these cars are limited at this point; hopefully cause there still relatively new)...
Hmm, that is interesting. Have you checked your tierod or balljoint(s), although weird it would only do it on decent left turns. Mine was sporadic as far as clunking, but you could hear it if the bump was on one side only, or coming up a driveway sometimes, etc...Maybe only one side was bad on mine, but may as well replace both, if you do.
Took it for a quick drive again and clunk is gone and *seems* to be better on braking, but the true test will be tomorrow on way to work.
Hmm, that is interesting. Have you checked your tierod or balljoint(s), although weird it would only do it on decent left turns. Mine was sporadic as far as clunking, but you could hear it if the bump was on one side only, or coming up a driveway sometimes, etc...Maybe only one side was bad on mine, but may as well replace both, if you do.
Took it for a quick drive again and clunk is gone and *seems* to be better on braking, but the true test will be tomorrow on way to work.
#13
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No problem and it's a good place to get some stuff (selection for these cars are limited at this point; hopefully cause there still relatively new)...
Hmm, that is interesting. Have you checked your tierod or balljoint(s), although weird it would only do it on decent left turns. Mine was sporadic as far as clunking, but you could hear it if the bump was on one side only, or coming up a driveway sometimes, etc...Maybe only one side was bad on mine, but may as well replace both, if you do.
Took it for a quick drive again and clunk is gone and *seems* to be better on braking, but the true test will be tomorrow on way to work.
Hmm, that is interesting. Have you checked your tierod or balljoint(s), although weird it would only do it on decent left turns. Mine was sporadic as far as clunking, but you could hear it if the bump was on one side only, or coming up a driveway sometimes, etc...Maybe only one side was bad on mine, but may as well replace both, if you do.
Took it for a quick drive again and clunk is gone and *seems* to be better on braking, but the true test will be tomorrow on way to work.
I do have a loud metal on metal bang when the passenger side front tire goes over a bump faster than 5mph.
Oh well, if it breaks i'll fix it.
#14
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Well, drove to work today and it rides much better. Clunk is gone and the brakes do react a little better. My thinking now is that I also have warped rotors (figured
) and the 'loose' endlinks just exagerrated all of it. Either way, I cannot wait to get new rotors and mounts; this ought to be a really nice riding, performing car
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