how to wire subs
03-09-2011, 12:02 PM
#1
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how to wire subs im buying 2 twelve inch subs with an amp , how do i wire this thing! i hate wires and wiring but i am capable, what im most concerned about is how to get the signal from the stock system and make it sound right. i dont want the bass hitting late and what not.
03-09-2011, 01:35 PM
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I have no idea. All I remember is that there is a kit (around $75 I think) that allows that amp to tap into the factory bose system.
It took Car Toys like an hour to do the install.
It took Car Toys like an hour to do the install.
03-09-2011, 01:43 PM
#3
You're looking for something like this: http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/s...ct_detail&p=83
I'm not sure if that one in particular will work with the V, but I'd probably call them to check.
I'm not sure if that one in particular will work with the V, but I'd probably call them to check.
03-09-2011, 01:53 PM
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You're looking for something like this: http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/s...ct_detail&p=83
I'm not sure if that one in particular will work with the V, but I'd probably call them to check.
I'm not sure if that one in particular will work with the V, but I'd probably call them to check.
03-09-2011, 04:55 PM
#6
mike when you do this take pics cause i've tried to figure out how to do this and still dont know where to tap into the REM pwr in the back seat or does the LOC thing above do it for you..?
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03-09-2011, 06:20 PM
#8
You really shouldn't need something like that. Since the subwoofer in the CTS is already crossed over and has higher frequencies eliminated, you would be fine with a simple high-to-low level converter hidden, and run RCA jacks right out of that, or even use a monoblock amplifier with high level inputs already built into it.
Parts Express High To Low in-line adapter
Same thing but with male ends
I plan on ordering a few of those 2nd one, Y'ing them off, and putting both leads into a monoblock. and mounting the amp directly under where the factory woofer was. That way, I won't have a visible hole, and the amp will get nice cooling on both side.
Those would work especially well if you had a remote subwoofer level controller since the factory radio is very lacking in audio tuning.
those are the amps I use. It has the high level inputs build in but I'm still going to go low. The Y adapters would be used to fill the front and rear inputs for extra volume without distortion from the factory highs, if you're not replacing them.
Parts Express High To Low in-line adapter
Same thing but with male ends
I plan on ordering a few of those 2nd one, Y'ing them off, and putting both leads into a monoblock. and mounting the amp directly under where the factory woofer was. That way, I won't have a visible hole, and the amp will get nice cooling on both side.
Those would work especially well if you had a remote subwoofer level controller since the factory radio is very lacking in audio tuning.
those are the amps I use. It has the high level inputs build in but I'm still going to go low. The Y adapters would be used to fill the front and rear inputs for extra volume without distortion from the factory highs, if you're not replacing them.
03-09-2011, 06:26 PM
#9
DOnt bother doing subs until you wanna ditch the factory nav unit. Once you turn the volume up pretty high the factory Bose amp kicks the bass down so its not even noticeable. I used a line in coverter to my alpine amp with a 10 inch type R and it sounds ok, but no where near what it would sound like if you had an aftermarket head unit.
03-09-2011, 06:36 PM
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DOnt bother doing subs until you wanna ditch the factory nav unit. Once you turn the volume up pretty high the factory Bose amp kicks the bass down so its not even noticeable. I used a line in coverter to my alpine amp with a 10 inch type R and it sounds ok, but no where near what it would sound like if you had an aftermarket head unit.
03-09-2011, 08:43 PM
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That is literally the exact same amp I have. It powers my 12" sub perfectly. Adding a sub really wakes up the system.
03-09-2011, 11:13 PM
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You will need a line out converter that will be installed in the wiring behind the b-pillar. That will allow you to run RCA's.
As someone else said, bass will sound better with an aftermarket head unit but considering no other unit would look uniform in the dash, i kept my stock navi unit. Im running a single boston acoustic G5 12" sub on a JL 500.1. I wired a bass **** to it an mounted it in my ash tray so its hidden and easily adjustable. I also ran the wire for my ipod kit through there as well so it looks clean and out of the way. My system sounds great for just one 12 on the stock head unit. Yeah... it may be a little louder with a nice aftermarket deck but if you just want a little bump in your trunk... the stock unit is fine.
As someone else said, bass will sound better with an aftermarket head unit but considering no other unit would look uniform in the dash, i kept my stock navi unit. Im running a single boston acoustic G5 12" sub on a JL 500.1. I wired a bass **** to it an mounted it in my ash tray so its hidden and easily adjustable. I also ran the wire for my ipod kit through there as well so it looks clean and out of the way. My system sounds great for just one 12 on the stock head unit. Yeah... it may be a little louder with a nice aftermarket deck but if you just want a little bump in your trunk... the stock unit is fine.
03-10-2011, 10:01 AM
#16
when you said you cut it off at the B pillar and put a line-out converter in, I was just curious as to why you didn't either do it at the amplifier in the trunk, or just take the wire directly out of the stock woofer and put a line out converter in that way.
03-10-2011, 10:05 AM
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My buddy is actually the one that wired it up for me. He worked at a car audio shop for a few years before he opened his own. He did my install for free and i just brought him a case of beer. lol He said that would be the best place to install it but im sure it can go in other ways. Its just a module thats spliced into the factory wiring to allow RCA outputs to the amp. Im sure it could be installed anywhere from the front to the rear of the car. Thats just where he chose to mount it.
03-10-2011, 11:46 AM
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i used the hi-lo converter and i think it sounds like complete **** if you ask me lol. you cant even begin to compare it to the sound of a aftermarket deck, just my opinion, hate to be a negative nancy hahaha
03-10-2011, 12:49 PM
#20
Sorry I don't document well but this is what I did to my V. It is not finished I just ran out of time (kids, work, etc..) I will finish it up by the end of the month... hopefully. The Alpine HU is feeding into the factory HU via the XM input mod. You just have to set your aftermarket HU to a certain volume number and keep it there. Its sort of like a gain on an amp. lol Once you have that set then you just use the factory volume control.
Here is a pic but this link ( http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...ICE%20Install/ )will have all my updates in it.
More pics will be added soon. I am still using the bose amp and factory radio **** to control all audio functions. Nav works too. You don't need a line out converter to run a sub. Get the audio signal before it goes into the Bose amp and you will have a clean signal without the distortion limiter. Sub will be goin in this weekend...
Anybody want to buy some JL Audio slash amps? I moved up to the HD ones.
JL Audio 500/1 = $230 shipped
JL Audio 300/4 = $210 shipped
JL Audio 500/5 = $290 shipped
OP sorry for the thread jack.
V owners I will post the color codes of the wires so you can hook up an aftermarket sub. True a aftermarket HU directly feeding an amp is best but if you want to retain all your factory stuff my route is the way to go. I've had a lot of systems in my day and was totally against Bose but for the mids and highs they are great but lows not so much.
Here is a pic but this link ( http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...ICE%20Install/ )will have all my updates in it.
More pics will be added soon. I am still using the bose amp and factory radio **** to control all audio functions. Nav works too. You don't need a line out converter to run a sub. Get the audio signal before it goes into the Bose amp and you will have a clean signal without the distortion limiter. Sub will be goin in this weekend...
Anybody want to buy some JL Audio slash amps? I moved up to the HD ones.
JL Audio 500/1 = $230 shipped
JL Audio 300/4 = $210 shipped
JL Audio 500/5 = $290 shipped
OP sorry for the thread jack.
V owners I will post the color codes of the wires so you can hook up an aftermarket sub. True a aftermarket HU directly feeding an amp is best but if you want to retain all your factory stuff my route is the way to go. I've had a lot of systems in my day and was totally against Bose but for the mids and highs they are great but lows not so much.