160 T-stat
04-07-2011, 08:35 AM
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160 T-stat Ok so i installed a motor rad 160 thermostat yeterday an now car seems to run a little warmer than usaul. My stock t-stat seemed to run about 194 cruising and between 199-205 in traffic so i figured i could help the texas heat soak a little by installing the 160. Well now at cruise its running about 178 and at idle between 205-220 with a high last night of 230 idling. Thought it might be air but i added just as much coolant as i lost and did all procedures to get air out. So confused right now, more pissed though.
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04-07-2011, 08:49 AM
#3
Ok so i installed a motor rad 160 thermostat yeterday an now car seems to run a little warmer than usaul. My stock t-stat seemed to run about 194 cruising and between 199-205 in traffic so i figured i could help the texas heat soak a little by installing the 160. Well now at cruise its running about 178 and at idle between 205-220 with a high last night of 230 idling. Thought it might be air but i added just as much coolant as i lost and did all procedures to get air out. So confused right now, more pissed though.
You will need to get a tuned to turn the fan on at a lower temperature.
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...tat/index.html
That’s it. The whole installation process should take about an hour.
On an average day with 80F temps outside the OEM thermostat would allow the coolant temperature to stabilize at 195F at freeway speeds. The 160F thermostat now allows a stable temperature of 175F under the same conditions.
If you have access to adjust your fan turn on temps I would recommend the following settings for a 160F or 180F thermostat. First fan on at 180F, Off at 175F
Second fan on at 185F, Off at 180F.
It’s generally accepted that the LS1/6 engine thrives at coolant temps of around 175F.
These settings only affect the vehicle if it is traveling slower then 35MPH. Otherwise the fans shut off as the air passing through the radiator from vehicle speed if sufficient enough for proper cooling.
04-07-2011, 12:31 PM
#5
You have to have the fans adjusted to complement the thermostat. In addition, the LS engine cooling system needs time to burp properly. One way I found helps burp things is to leave the pressure cap off when starting a cool engine, and let it run until the coolant works its way up. That seems to help the bubbles come up more quickly. Then let it cool down and top it off. Did you clock the little brass burp valve at the 12 oclock position? If not, it is going to take a while to burp the air. That little brass valve when positioned properly helps burp air out of the system. Your coolant to distilled water ratio is also going to affect coolant temps. Don't use tap water. If you have to, at least get a couple gallons of distilled water from a store. Tap water is going to accelerate corrosion and scale buildup, which also affects coolant temps in a negative way.
04-07-2011, 03:53 PM
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Well i swapped the stock thermostat back in an everything is back to normal running 190s at idle low 190s cruise. ugh this is fustrating, just recieved part yesterday new from lingenfelter added new coolant/water 50/50 . So i guess either the part is bad or i had the random air bubble. thermo was clocked at 12. any clues?
04-07-2011, 03:58 PM
#7
Suspend the t-stat in a pot of water by a coat hanger - put a thremometer in the water and watch the stat open at 168-170...
If:
Yay it works - now tune the car for the fans as suggested.
or
Nay it sucks - get a refund and buy an alternate brand
If:
Yay it works - now tune the car for the fans as suggested.
or
Nay it sucks - get a refund and buy an alternate brand
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04-07-2011, 04:03 PM
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Well i swapped the stock thermostat back in an everything is back to normal running 190s at idle low 190s cruise. ugh this is fustrating, just recieved part yesterday new from lingenfelter added new coolant/water 50/50 . So i guess either the part is bad or i had the random air bubble. thermo was clocked at 12. any clues?
04-07-2011, 04:15 PM
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I put in a 160* lingenfelter on a stock ls2 cts-v and car runs cooler within the range of 170-176. I lost then added 2 quarts of 50/50 dexcool during the change. With the stock thermostat it would run between 186-190. Most of my driving is above 35mph and will see how it holds at a track day tomorrow.
01-03-2012, 11:59 PM
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The factory radiator probably isn't efficient enough to cool quickly enough. The lower t-sat is opening before the radiator has enough time to do it's job which is cool the fluid in the rad.
01-06-2012, 09:45 AM
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01-07-2012, 08:10 AM
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In the cooler weather, mine will run 158-165. In the summer with the A/C on, it would still run 200-204 like stock no matter what. I think our cooling systems are designed right at the edge of failure honestly.
01-08-2012, 06:59 AM
#18
You have to have the fans adjusted to complement the thermostat. In addition, the LS engine cooling system needs time to burp properly. One way I found helps burp things is to leave the pressure cap off when starting a cool engine, and let it run until the coolant works its way up. That seems to help the bubbles come up more quickly. Then let it cool down and top it off. Did you clock the little brass burp valve at the 12 oclock position? If not, it is going to take a while to burp the air. That little brass valve when positioned properly helps burp air out of the system. Your coolant to distilled water ratio is also going to affect coolant temps. Don't use tap water. If you have to, at least get a couple gallons of distilled water from a store. Tap water is going to accelerate corrosion and scale buildup, which also affects coolant temps in a negative way.
