Driveshaft Shop Releases there single Carbon Fiber and Aluminum CV Driveshafts
#121
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
Only way you're going to know about temps is to measure them. That can take some time so if you're going to spend the time, a good solution is just put some heat shielding above the exhaust and solve it proactively. You can find dedicated solutions here: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...heat%20shields
You could probably find something similar at McMaster Carr too.
You could probably find something similar at McMaster Carr too.
#122
Even with full DEI titanium wrap on my Magnaflow the surface temperature of my driveshaft exceeds 240 degrees all the time (even in the winter). That's the highest my Omega temperature strips go.
Typically carbon fiber adhesives start to loosen at 250 degrees although some vendors say 300 degrees is the maximum. I'm not sure who to believe.
Typically carbon fiber adhesives start to loosen at 250 degrees although some vendors say 300 degrees is the maximum. I'm not sure who to believe.
#123
Only way you're going to know about temps is to measure them. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lase...emperature+gun
That can take some time so if you're going to spend the time, a good solution is just put some heat shielding above the exhaust and solve it proactively. You can find dedicated solutions here: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...heat%20shields
You could probably find something similar at McMaster Carr too.
That can take some time so if you're going to spend the time, a good solution is just put some heat shielding above the exhaust and solve it proactively. You can find dedicated solutions here: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...heat%20shields
You could probably find something similar at McMaster Carr too.
Even with full DEI titanium wrap on my Magnaflow the surface temperature of my driveshaft exceeds 240 degrees all the time (even in the winter). That's the highest my Omega temperature strips go.
Typically carbon fiber adhesives start to loosen at 250 degrees although some vendors say 300 degrees is the maximum. I'm not sure who to believe.
Typically carbon fiber adhesives start to loosen at 250 degrees although some vendors say 300 degrees is the maximum. I'm not sure who to believe.
#124
I have a 1-piece carbon fiber PST driveshaft. No problems so far, but I'm not putting down the kind of power (yet) that would stress the driveshaft. The main thing that I think people can do to reduce heat is to space the exhaust pipes further apart and away from the driveshaft.
#126
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iTrader: (13)
DSS makes the ones mentioned, has the most options.
PST makes a 4" one piece aluminum.
GForce still makes a 3" and a 4" aluminum too.
You can get a new GM.
You can get a new Dorman.
Powertrain Industries and Colorado Driveshaft can both fully rebuild and balance your OEM shaft.
Voodoochikin can install his awesome carrier and service the CV joints. Just make sure to not let the CVs fall apart when you remove.
PST makes a 4" one piece aluminum.
GForce still makes a 3" and a 4" aluminum too.
You can get a new GM.
You can get a new Dorman.
Powertrain Industries and Colorado Driveshaft can both fully rebuild and balance your OEM shaft.
Voodoochikin can install his awesome carrier and service the CV joints. Just make sure to not let the CVs fall apart when you remove.
#127
#128
TECH Enthusiast
I still would love an answer regards to me sitting in traffic in 95+ degree weather and 95% humidity with a carbon fiber driveshaft. As much as I want to be spinning that driveshaft wildly, I have to live in reality and I have a good bit of traffic in my reality.
As well as the transmission mount Polyu an issue or seems to be a concern from Frank. I want to get the creative steel parts and would like advisement from either someone who has first hand experience or from Frank himself. Hopefully Frank is having a great day.
As well as the transmission mount Polyu an issue or seems to be a concern from Frank. I want to get the creative steel parts and would like advisement from either someone who has first hand experience or from Frank himself. Hopefully Frank is having a great day.
These are the kind of strips I'm using.
http://www.omega.com/pptst/TL-10.html
Short of having a thermocouple in close proximity to the shaft you won't get any more accurate than those strips for actual surface temps.
I've driven the car in 98°F heat, highway cruising, in traffic, at road course race tracks, and sitting in traffic jams for over an hour and have not had any issues with the temps. I personally think the heat concern is not an issue with the proper precautions. My car is also very low to the ground and there is not much air circulating under the car while in traffic. You can see the heat mirages pouring out from under the door area from the headers when sitting in traffic and can feel the heat with your feet if you're standing next to the car. I'm also hard on the gas all the time in the car so the exhaust system is seeing lots of temperature. Non-issue.
#129
DSS makes the ones mentioned, has the most options.
PST makes a 4" one piece aluminum.
GForce still makes a 3" and a 4" aluminum too.
You can get a new GM.
You can get a new Dorman.
Powertrain Industries and Colorado Driveshaft can both fully rebuild and balance your OEM shaft.
Voodoochikin can install his awesome carrier and service the CV joints. Just make sure to not let the CVs fall apart when you remove.
PST makes a 4" one piece aluminum.
GForce still makes a 3" and a 4" aluminum too.
You can get a new GM.
You can get a new Dorman.
Powertrain Industries and Colorado Driveshaft can both fully rebuild and balance your OEM shaft.
Voodoochikin can install his awesome carrier and service the CV joints. Just make sure to not let the CVs fall apart when you remove.
PST and Gforce eh. I'll ask them. CV joint, I have taken apart and put them back together, lost marbles, lost inner and outer races but it always goes back together. I guess working on front-wheel drive shitboxes added a small mechanic-point in regards to CV-joints.
I'm running the DSS 1 piece Carbon DS and have temp strips at the bonded portions. My Corsa exhaust is painted with ceramic spray paint and wrapped with Titanium DEI wrap at the bonded areas of the DS, front and rear and the temps have not exceeded 150° with the latest strips I've installed. I have two strips at each location. one is 100-180 and the other is 190-280 rated. No temps even register on the second higher temp strips.
These are the kind of strips I'm using.
http://www.omega.com/pptst/TL-10.html
Short of having a thermocouple in close proximity to the shaft you won't get any more accurate than those strips for actual surface temps.
I've driven the car in 98°F heat, highway cruising, in traffic, at road course race tracks, and sitting in traffic jams for over an hour and have not had any issues with the temps. I personally think the heat concern is not an issue with the proper precautions. My car is also very low to the ground and there is not much air circulating under the car while in traffic. You can see the heat mirages pouring out from under the door area from the headers when sitting in traffic and can feel the heat with your feet if you're standing next to the car. I'm also hard on the gas all the time in the car so the exhaust system is seeing lots of temperature. Non-issue.
These are the kind of strips I'm using.
http://www.omega.com/pptst/TL-10.html
Short of having a thermocouple in close proximity to the shaft you won't get any more accurate than those strips for actual surface temps.
I've driven the car in 98°F heat, highway cruising, in traffic, at road course race tracks, and sitting in traffic jams for over an hour and have not had any issues with the temps. I personally think the heat concern is not an issue with the proper precautions. My car is also very low to the ground and there is not much air circulating under the car while in traffic. You can see the heat mirages pouring out from under the door area from the headers when sitting in traffic and can feel the heat with your feet if you're standing next to the car. I'm also hard on the gas all the time in the car so the exhaust system is seeing lots of temperature. Non-issue.
Those small non-reversible temp strips are very slick. Never seen those before but I can see the usefulness in protecting your carbon fiber driveshaft!
I was thinking I would purchase an aluminum driveshaft but as I am researching more, the carbon fiber properties that Frank brought up shine more than the aluminum counterpart.
And once again to everyone, thank you for helping give insights and experiences. Much appreciated.
#130
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
Yep, I had to call PST and GForce. They used to advertise them online but no longer. I found past references to their shafts from old posts here and called them up. Sometimes you need to pick up a phone and call to get the info you're after.
Good info on the strips! I also am interested in the idea of ceramic coating + shielding parts of the exhaust. I like the noise outside but only inside when I want it.
Good info on the strips! I also am interested in the idea of ceramic coating + shielding parts of the exhaust. I like the noise outside but only inside when I want it.
#131
Barrok, your temperatures don't make sense. Are you putting those strips directly on the driveshaft as I did in years past when I pointed out the Omega strips? On a 100F day, asphalt temperatures are usually in the 145-165F range so you should be seeing SOMEthing above 240F (even if you don't drive the car hard) unless you removed the air dam or your exhaust is titanium.
#132
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Frank, how long should your CF 1 piece actually be in this application?
I've had 2 of your V1 driveshafts and one was short which required extending the CVs to bolt up (it vibbed from day 1, thanks for the refund btw) and the other so tight you could barely get it in the car, almost completely compressing the CVs to go in. The tight one has this "tuning fork" hum you referred to in your last post and I'm curious if shortening it would help.
however, I was told that your cf shafts have to be shortened at least 5 inches in order to get past the adhesives used to bond the ends into place....looks like I'm stuck with that one!
How much preload should a CV have in this application? I don't recall ever installing an axle that required compressing or extending the CVs to make length.
I've had 2 of your V1 driveshafts and one was short which required extending the CVs to bolt up (it vibbed from day 1, thanks for the refund btw) and the other so tight you could barely get it in the car, almost completely compressing the CVs to go in. The tight one has this "tuning fork" hum you referred to in your last post and I'm curious if shortening it would help.
however, I was told that your cf shafts have to be shortened at least 5 inches in order to get past the adhesives used to bond the ends into place....looks like I'm stuck with that one!
How much preload should a CV have in this application? I don't recall ever installing an axle that required compressing or extending the CVs to make length.
#133
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Any reason no one really wants to run an aftermarket 2-pc from DSS or the like? I've got the DSS 2-pc in mine with the 8.8 (with beefy carrier bearing and 3 Spicer u-joints). It has a splined slip joint near the carrier bearing, so it's pretty easy to get the length right. I had to shim the carrier bearing up a bit to get the angles of the u-joints and shafts in a happy place. Seems to work fine.
It does have very limited clearance between the gas tank and the exhaust, but it all fits. The only issue I finally found is a minor vibration at about 110 (never explored above 90 until recently). I'm hoping I can find something obvious to correct it. Otherwise, the 2-pc installs easily and the u-joint angles were fairly easy to get right.
I realize the CF 1-pc units are sexy and lightweight, but it seems like there are a lot of issues with it. Just genuinely curious why folks are set on the 1-pc units. Not trying to stir the pot, just curious.
Also curious about barrok's new G8 toy in his sig, but I don't want to derail the thread.
It does have very limited clearance between the gas tank and the exhaust, but it all fits. The only issue I finally found is a minor vibration at about 110 (never explored above 90 until recently). I'm hoping I can find something obvious to correct it. Otherwise, the 2-pc installs easily and the u-joint angles were fairly easy to get right.
I realize the CF 1-pc units are sexy and lightweight, but it seems like there are a lot of issues with it. Just genuinely curious why folks are set on the 1-pc units. Not trying to stir the pot, just curious.
Also curious about barrok's new G8 toy in his sig, but I don't want to derail the thread.
#135
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I get everything that Frank explained, but I wonder how much of that makes a noticeable difference unless you spend a lot of time on a track? I waffled on the carbon when I got the kit, but it sounded like most people were having issues with them, so I stuck with the 2-pc because I thought I could avoid the potential headache.
All of that said, if I could be guaranteed the 1-pc would slide right in on mine and work without issue (vibration and heat), I'd probably swap it in. A CF driveshaft just plain sounds cool if it works properly.