ls7 clutch swap, problems with bolts
#1
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ls7 clutch swap, problems with bolts
I ordered my ls7 clutch "kit" last week, and it came in yesterday. I set aside the time and resources to change it, only to discover this:
-a severely scarred pressure plate
-no pressure plate or flywheel bolts
-no clutch alignment tool
So, I checked around, and i cannot seem to locate a clutch alignment tool, or get a straight answer regarding the bolts. The local chevy dealer says the ls7 flywheel (for clutch and crank) takes 12 bolts, part number 111569956. The local cadillac dealer shows part number 12563485 at a quantity of 12 bolts.
Can i reuse the ls6 bolts? or are they torque-to-yield?
Which part numbers should I use?
Are the bolts different between the ls6 and ls7 flywheels?
Where can i locate a clutch alignment tool?
Also, Is a remote bleeder really necessary? I would think the slave cylinder comes pre-bled, as in most applications.
-a severely scarred pressure plate
-no pressure plate or flywheel bolts
-no clutch alignment tool
So, I checked around, and i cannot seem to locate a clutch alignment tool, or get a straight answer regarding the bolts. The local chevy dealer says the ls7 flywheel (for clutch and crank) takes 12 bolts, part number 111569956. The local cadillac dealer shows part number 12563485 at a quantity of 12 bolts.
Can i reuse the ls6 bolts? or are they torque-to-yield?
Which part numbers should I use?
Are the bolts different between the ls6 and ls7 flywheels?
Where can i locate a clutch alignment tool?
Also, Is a remote bleeder really necessary? I would think the slave cylinder comes pre-bled, as in most applications.
Last edited by hatched91; 03-08-2012 at 12:32 PM.
#2
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i used the same flywheel bolts that came with the car. 6 or 8, if i recall correctly. i really think it's 6. i forget what they're torqued to.
you don't necessarily need the bleeder extension, but you're going to be pulling your transmission every time you want to bleed your clutch. you could theoretically bore out your bellhousing a little bit and fit a ratchet in there to bleed your clutch.
you could take your disc into autozone and find the tool that fits into the center of the clutch, i forget what the specs are of it. IIRC, the clutch tool you need is 1 1/8", 26 splines.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1341/
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...content=value4
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=726141_0_0_
you don't necessarily need the bleeder extension, but you're going to be pulling your transmission every time you want to bleed your clutch. you could theoretically bore out your bellhousing a little bit and fit a ratchet in there to bleed your clutch.
you could take your disc into autozone and find the tool that fits into the center of the clutch, i forget what the specs are of it. IIRC, the clutch tool you need is 1 1/8", 26 splines.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1341/
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...content=value4
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=726141_0_0_
#3
Where did you order this "kit" from? They should've included those. I think an alignment tool is like $10.
Don't reuse the bolts.
ARP parts numbers for LS6:
330-2802: Flywheel Bolts (6)
134-2201: Pressure Plate Bolts (I can't remember)
Also, do the remote line if you don't have two elbows. <- needed for bleeding clutch with stock bleeder.
Don't reuse the bolts.
ARP parts numbers for LS6:
330-2802: Flywheel Bolts (6)
134-2201: Pressure Plate Bolts (I can't remember)
Also, do the remote line if you don't have two elbows. <- needed for bleeding clutch with stock bleeder.
#4
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Where did you order this "kit" from? They should've included those. I think an alignment tool is like $10.
Don't reuse the bolts.
ARP parts numbers:
330-2802: Flywheel Bolts
134-2201: Pressure Plate Bolts
Also, do the remote line if you don't have two elbows. <- needed for bleeding clutch with stock bleeder.
Don't reuse the bolts.
ARP parts numbers:
330-2802: Flywheel Bolts
134-2201: Pressure Plate Bolts
Also, do the remote line if you don't have two elbows. <- needed for bleeding clutch with stock bleeder.
are they actually torque to yield? i can't think of if i bought new ones or not, but I don't think that I did.
#6
When I ordered my LS7 kit from Luke at Lindsay last week I speciffically asked about flywheel bolts and his response was that I could "absolutely use the original bolts"...hope he's right
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#10
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The clutch assembly bolts are torque to yield. They see many heat cycles and are torqued fairly heavily compared to other automotive bolts.
Does that mean they will break if you will reuse them? Not necessarily, but considering the extensive labor it takes to install them and the considerable $$$ in parts they secure, replacing them may be worth the coin. Technically, they really should have been included in the kit.
Also, the bleeder is worth every penny. I would not do another clutch install in a V without one.
Does that mean they will break if you will reuse them? Not necessarily, but considering the extensive labor it takes to install them and the considerable $$$ in parts they secure, replacing them may be worth the coin. Technically, they really should have been included in the kit.
Also, the bleeder is worth every penny. I would not do another clutch install in a V without one.
#11
CTS-V Shifter Sales
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The clutch assembly bolts are torque to yield. They see many heat cycles and are torqued fairly heavily compared to other automotive bolts.
Does that mean they will break if you will reuse them? Not necessarily, but considering the extensive labor it takes to install them and the considerable $$$ in parts they secure, replacing them may be worth the coin. Technically, they really should have been included in the kit.
Also, the bleeder is worth every penny. I would not do another clutch install in a V without one.
Does that mean they will break if you will reuse them? Not necessarily, but considering the extensive labor it takes to install them and the considerable $$$ in parts they secure, replacing them may be worth the coin. Technically, they really should have been included in the kit.
Also, the bleeder is worth every penny. I would not do another clutch install in a V without one.
Radeon, I replaced your bolts on your flywheel because I had an extra set.
Also, you can bleed the clutch properly with the stock bleeder. It's just tight with limited visibility. A stubby 8mm wrench helps immensely.
#12
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well the local chevy dealer has new bolts in stock, so i'll grab those up. I also ordered the clutch tool from advance auto parts (thanks radeon for the link!)
Is any specific bleeder better than the others? i found monster, lapd, and at least one other.
Is any specific bleeder better than the others? i found monster, lapd, and at least one other.
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Any kit for the C6 should work. There should be no special fitting for the V. They use the same type of bleeder. All that little thing is, is an extension that does not seal off like the bleeder an let's you mount the hose on the end.