WTF wheelhop with gforce axle
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i recently installed the passanger side gforce axle on my 05 and didnt notice any imporovement... thought it was my tires so i got a new set and still have plenty of wheelhop.. I was under the impression that people had good luck with this axle. what else should/can i do?
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its not that i didnt like them... i thought that they may be part of the wheelhop problem.. (and they deffinetly were not) plus i had a smokin deal on a set of 4 tires, so i jumped on it..
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The diff was recently changed by the dealer and I believe the bushing was replaced. I went with the gforce because I've read good things about it... I'm not gonna buy products from every company to see which works better. Do you guys think the bmr bushings would help along with the axle?
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I had the full G-force axles for about 15-20 miles, 95+% of wheel hop was gone. I have heard of guys blowing up stock inner cvs with just the bars.
That said, it would help to put the diff bushing from max in, be prepared for a little road noise, not bad though. Also once somenone makes some better rear tie rods than the hard to adjust BMR pieces, then do that and get your rear toe set to almost zero. The flimsy stockers dont really help keep the tires from pointing in on acceleration and then the tires are trying to walk over themselves.
FYI, right after I put my axles in and was headed a few miles down the road to Firestone for a lifetime alignment (gotta love the one time buy) it was raining and under partial throttle where i would have had wheel hop, therre was absolutely none. Once at the shop I realized why, the rear toe was toed out 1.5 or better on each side. now I cant keep it like that, but changing from the toe in to toe out definitely helped, since when the alignment was done, the wheel hop was evident under a little more throttle in the rain. I had my camber brought to just -0.5 and the toe set to 0.0 but could not continue driving the car due to rear end noise.
Bottom line, there is more than one thing to do to get rid of the wheel hop. I hope this information helps you make your decisions.
That said, it would help to put the diff bushing from max in, be prepared for a little road noise, not bad though. Also once somenone makes some better rear tie rods than the hard to adjust BMR pieces, then do that and get your rear toe set to almost zero. The flimsy stockers dont really help keep the tires from pointing in on acceleration and then the tires are trying to walk over themselves.
FYI, right after I put my axles in and was headed a few miles down the road to Firestone for a lifetime alignment (gotta love the one time buy) it was raining and under partial throttle where i would have had wheel hop, therre was absolutely none. Once at the shop I realized why, the rear toe was toed out 1.5 or better on each side. now I cant keep it like that, but changing from the toe in to toe out definitely helped, since when the alignment was done, the wheel hop was evident under a little more throttle in the rain. I had my camber brought to just -0.5 and the toe set to 0.0 but could not continue driving the car due to rear end noise.
Bottom line, there is more than one thing to do to get rid of the wheel hop. I hope this information helps you make your decisions.
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Who blew up a stock inner CV...lol. Thanx for ur stocks by the way... Think i am going to move to an 8.8 with a friend here shortly...
That should kill the wheel hop all together.
That should kill the wheel hop all together.
I had the full G-force axles for about 15-20 miles, 95+% of wheel hop was gone. I have heard of guys blowing up stock inner cvs with just the bars.
That said, it would help to put the diff bushing from max in, be prepared for a little road noise, not bad though. Also once somenone makes some better rear tie rods than the hard to adjust BMR pieces, then do that and get your rear toe set to almost zero. The flimsy stockers dont really help keep the tires from pointing in on acceleration and then the tires are trying to walk over themselves.
FYI, right after I put my axles in and was headed a few miles down the road to Firestone for a lifetime alignment (gotta love the one time buy) it was raining and under partial throttle where i would have had wheel hop, therre was absolutely none. Once at the shop I realized why, the rear toe was toed out 1.5 or better on each side. now I cant keep it like that, but changing from the toe in to toe out definitely helped, since when the alignment was done, the wheel hop was evident under a little more throttle in the rain. I had my camber brought to just -0.5 and the toe set to 0.0 but could not continue driving the car due to rear end noise.
Bottom line, there is more than one thing to do to get rid of the wheel hop. I hope this information helps you make your decisions.
That said, it would help to put the diff bushing from max in, be prepared for a little road noise, not bad though. Also once somenone makes some better rear tie rods than the hard to adjust BMR pieces, then do that and get your rear toe set to almost zero. The flimsy stockers dont really help keep the tires from pointing in on acceleration and then the tires are trying to walk over themselves.
FYI, right after I put my axles in and was headed a few miles down the road to Firestone for a lifetime alignment (gotta love the one time buy) it was raining and under partial throttle where i would have had wheel hop, therre was absolutely none. Once at the shop I realized why, the rear toe was toed out 1.5 or better on each side. now I cant keep it like that, but changing from the toe in to toe out definitely helped, since when the alignment was done, the wheel hop was evident under a little more throttle in the rain. I had my camber brought to just -0.5 and the toe set to 0.0 but could not continue driving the car due to rear end noise.
Bottom line, there is more than one thing to do to get rid of the wheel hop. I hope this information helps you make your decisions.