View Poll Results: Which V1 motor mounts do you recommend?
UMI
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18
45.00%
Creative Steel
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18
45.00%
Revshift
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4
10.00%
Those sucks, get these (see my reply)
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0
0%
Voters: 40. You may not vote on this poll
Motor Mounts for V1? (POLL)
#63
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It's amazing, like an entirely new car and by far the best $50 I've ever spent. My trans mount was really sagging and compressed which I believe was putting the transmission at an angle causing bad geometry with the linkage setup and the reason it was such a pain in the *** to put the insert in.
#64
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Haha, you're not going to believe me when I tell you.
I used an engine crane! I took the cross section of the mount off the car, put it under the legs of the crane then hooked the crane up to the top of the motor mount and used the crane to pull the motor mount apart far enough to slide the new mount in.
Even with the crane pulling, I still had to use a long screw driver along with a lot of grunting, pushing and swearing to get it in. Once I got it in it's solid and made a HUGE difference with my shifting.
I used an engine crane! I took the cross section of the mount off the car, put it under the legs of the crane then hooked the crane up to the top of the motor mount and used the crane to pull the motor mount apart far enough to slide the new mount in.
Even with the crane pulling, I still had to use a long screw driver along with a lot of grunting, pushing and swearing to get it in. Once I got it in it's solid and made a HUGE difference with my shifting.
- The problem is that the front and back edges of the RevShift block are raised to avoid slippage and, if you have more than 2 miles on the transmission, the OEM mount has collapsed somewhat, presenting a terribly narrow slot for you to try (in vain) to smash the block through.
- One potential solution, in theory, is to loosen the transmission brace as much as possible and insert a pair of fat wrenches or other ad-hoc spacers between the brace and the frame of the car. Then, if you place your hydraulic jack beneath the back of the transmission and apply maximum pressure (to the point where the car is nearly lifted off the jack stands), the transmission brace and transmission will be stretching the rubber transmission mount just enough to jam the block in.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 06-20-2012 at 01:48 PM.
#65
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Hah. I tried a fundamentally similar approach, but didn't have the tools like you did. I'm going to try again next weekend when I have more time, and if it works, I may post it up to help other people out. In essence:
- The problem is that the front and back edges of the RevShift block are raised to avoid slippage and, if you have more than 2 miles on the transmission, the OEM mount has collapsed somewhat, presenting a terribly narrow slot for you to try (in vain) to smash the block through.
- One potential solution is to loosen the transmission brace as much as possible and insert a pair of fat wrenches or other ad-hoc spacers between the brace and the frame of the car. Then, if you place your hydraulic jack beneath the back of the transmission and apply maximum pressure (to the point where the car is nearly lifted off the jack stands), the transmission brace and transmission will be stretching the rubber transmission mount just enough to jam the block in.
- The problem is that the front and back edges of the RevShift block are raised to avoid slippage and, if you have more than 2 miles on the transmission, the OEM mount has collapsed somewhat, presenting a terribly narrow slot for you to try (in vain) to smash the block through.
- One potential solution is to loosen the transmission brace as much as possible and insert a pair of fat wrenches or other ad-hoc spacers between the brace and the frame of the car. Then, if you place your hydraulic jack beneath the back of the transmission and apply maximum pressure (to the point where the car is nearly lifted off the jack stands), the transmission brace and transmission will be stretching the rubber transmission mount just enough to jam the block in.