Detonation Help...
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So the V is not tuned and has very light motor mods (in sig) and not matter if I run 91 oct fuel or 89 it pings in 1st and second under WOT? It has a stock factory computer that is not tuned so I am confused?
Any help would be great thanks!
Dave
Any help would be great thanks!
Dave
#2
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Hmm you have a lighter driveline so that should help. The tr6s are actually colder than stock. You haven't done enough to really lean it out. Does it run well otherwise? If anything you should ping with higher loads - 3rd or 4th gear.
Are you hearing it or seeing it on a scanner? There is a pretty good difference between the high and low octane tables in the stock computer. If it is really seeing knock it should move towards the low table and stop.
Maybe oil from the cai filter? Clean the maf up?
Are you hearing it or seeing it on a scanner? There is a pretty good difference between the high and low octane tables in the stock computer. If it is really seeing knock it should move towards the low table and stop.
Maybe oil from the cai filter? Clean the maf up?
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I have ran my car with the MAF unplugged, it just threw a code (dont recall which) and required to be reset. I have also ran it not metering any air whatsoever so I could check throttle blade position on WOT for a quick blip of the throttle. Never shut off on me.
1 --- Pinging is not considered pre-detonation, pinging is caused from lean fuel mixtures, oil in the combustion chambers, or even engine temperature higher than normal.
2 --- There are no issues running a one step 'colder' plug in a stock engine. It is problematic to run a stock heat range plug in a nitrous or FI application due to the excessive cylinder pressures and heat. The plugs are actually performing better than stock because of the ability to dissipate heat faster than stock rating and mitigate the risk of pre-detonation. If anything, the plugs being colder would cause them to not be able to clean themselves properly and build up excessive carbon and foul out. In no form or fashion have I ever heard or experienced one step colder plugs causing pinging in an engine. Stock heat ranges are determined within 2 overall heat ranges based off of overall performance and operating parameters. You are well within the limits with one step colder.
***However, running 89 octane with one step colder can produce problems due to the lower octane rating and lower pressures. Cause carbon build up and improper sparking. Which can also be caused by corrosion on coil pack tips, wire connections and plug 'nipples'. -- i like nipples.
3 --- Other common issues could be a dirty MAF no metering the proper air flowing and not providing the proper A/F ratio.
4 --- Check your TB for oil residue, just flip the blade open and see if there is excessive oil blow by. Doesn't hurt to take a cotton rag and clean it up once in a while if you don't have a catch can. I haven't seen that any PCV's have failed in the LS6
5 --- Fuel Pressure from a clogged filter could be causing an improper mixture as well. There are many things that could be wrong here. Suggest starting with the simplest inspection items and working your way from there.
There are many many possibilities here, but like stated, the inspection items should be accomplished first for ease. Plug number 7 is a pain in the ***.
1 --- Pinging is not considered pre-detonation, pinging is caused from lean fuel mixtures, oil in the combustion chambers, or even engine temperature higher than normal.
2 --- There are no issues running a one step 'colder' plug in a stock engine. It is problematic to run a stock heat range plug in a nitrous or FI application due to the excessive cylinder pressures and heat. The plugs are actually performing better than stock because of the ability to dissipate heat faster than stock rating and mitigate the risk of pre-detonation. If anything, the plugs being colder would cause them to not be able to clean themselves properly and build up excessive carbon and foul out. In no form or fashion have I ever heard or experienced one step colder plugs causing pinging in an engine. Stock heat ranges are determined within 2 overall heat ranges based off of overall performance and operating parameters. You are well within the limits with one step colder.
***However, running 89 octane with one step colder can produce problems due to the lower octane rating and lower pressures. Cause carbon build up and improper sparking. Which can also be caused by corrosion on coil pack tips, wire connections and plug 'nipples'. -- i like nipples.
3 --- Other common issues could be a dirty MAF no metering the proper air flowing and not providing the proper A/F ratio.
4 --- Check your TB for oil residue, just flip the blade open and see if there is excessive oil blow by. Doesn't hurt to take a cotton rag and clean it up once in a while if you don't have a catch can. I haven't seen that any PCV's have failed in the LS6
5 --- Fuel Pressure from a clogged filter could be causing an improper mixture as well. There are many things that could be wrong here. Suggest starting with the simplest inspection items and working your way from there.
There are many many possibilities here, but like stated, the inspection items should be accomplished first for ease. Plug number 7 is a pain in the ***.
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The IAT is part of the MAF sensor plug with these cars, and IAT would be required for SD calculations... but If i remember, it still should run. I cant test it anymore, MAF is long gone.
For the OP.
-T- has some good comments. - nipples..
#12
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Hahaha...he said "nipples".
Now that I got that out of my system...unplugging the MAF will do a few things...shutting off should not be one of them though. It should immediately set a P0101 DTC, which forces the VCM to use the low octane ignition advance map, disregard the MAF readings (which will improve drivability if the MAF is reading incorrectly, or failing within range), and run a bit richer.
Not a holy grail by any means, but if you are having an issue and want to force the low octane map, its quick and easy. Also, the MAF can fail within range (meaning it will not set a DTC, but rather mimic other problems) so if you are having odd drivability problems it's a good idea to get it out of the system.
If you still have pinging with the MAF unplugged, you have got more serious problems.
Now that I got that out of my system...unplugging the MAF will do a few things...shutting off should not be one of them though. It should immediately set a P0101 DTC, which forces the VCM to use the low octane ignition advance map, disregard the MAF readings (which will improve drivability if the MAF is reading incorrectly, or failing within range), and run a bit richer.
Not a holy grail by any means, but if you are having an issue and want to force the low octane map, its quick and easy. Also, the MAF can fail within range (meaning it will not set a DTC, but rather mimic other problems) so if you are having odd drivability problems it's a good idea to get it out of the system.
If you still have pinging with the MAF unplugged, you have got more serious problems.
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I forgot to mention the car has 150k on it now. It still runs outstanding but I am in the process of changing all the coils and the plugs back to tr55ix's. It has a new fuel filter and its the factory un-tuned computer. I will try the MAF thing and let you guys know how that goes. Do the oil separators help these ls motor avoid pinging also?
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I forgot to mention the car has 150k on it now. It still runs outstanding but I am in the process of changing all the coils and the plugs back to tr55ix's. It has a new fuel filter and its the factory un-tuned computer. I will try the MAF thing and let you guys know how that goes. Do the oil separators help these ls motor avoid pinging also?
#17
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You guys are over thinking this...yes, oil will degrade the octane rating of fuel to a degree, but if you are ingesting that much oil you have real problems somewhere else.
Oil past the rings? Don't think so...not unless you have overheated the thing pretty horribly. LS motors will have rust scars in the cylinders and not burn oil...only real time I have heard of LS rings passing oil is on stroker motors when wrist pin is in the oil ring pack.
Also, the LS6 has the best PCV system made in the LS series motors.
Again, not saying that burning oil will not cause detonation, its just not very likely in your case. You would have to be burning so much oil to cause this that you would never have to change your oil. Stop getting hung up on this and find your real problem.
Oil past the rings? Don't think so...not unless you have overheated the thing pretty horribly. LS motors will have rust scars in the cylinders and not burn oil...only real time I have heard of LS rings passing oil is on stroker motors when wrist pin is in the oil ring pack.
Also, the LS6 has the best PCV system made in the LS series motors.
Again, not saying that burning oil will not cause detonation, its just not very likely in your case. You would have to be burning so much oil to cause this that you would never have to change your oil. Stop getting hung up on this and find your real problem.