AC tube help needed
#1
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AC tube help needed
So exactly what do I need to replace when I'm trying to service the Orifice Tube?
No **** jokes here. I've seen someone mention it's just a $8 part in the a/c system.
I had a friends granddad vacuum out my system, and refill it with coolant, and it's slow to equalize, which he said means that there's a blockage somewhere in the system, probly at the orifice tube...
So where the hell is this orifice tube?
I've never had to deal with one of thse before.
www.rockauto.com is where I'll be shopping for it.
Lemme know what I need, I'm apparently retarded when it comes to this.
-meaty
No **** jokes here. I've seen someone mention it's just a $8 part in the a/c system.
I had a friends granddad vacuum out my system, and refill it with coolant, and it's slow to equalize, which he said means that there's a blockage somewhere in the system, probly at the orifice tube...
So where the hell is this orifice tube?
I've never had to deal with one of thse before.
www.rockauto.com is where I'll be shopping for it.
Lemme know what I need, I'm apparently retarded when it comes to this.
-meaty
#3
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From what I was reading the CTS does not have a orifice tube.
It does have a "dessicant" bag that is installed through a service cap on I believe the right side of the condenser.
Once the system is evacuated you remove the cap and pull out the old dessicant bag and insert the new one. Be sure to keep it sealed until you install it and save it for last so it stays nice and dry.
It does have a "dessicant" bag that is installed through a service cap on I believe the right side of the condenser.
Once the system is evacuated you remove the cap and pull out the old dessicant bag and insert the new one. Be sure to keep it sealed until you install it and save it for last so it stays nice and dry.
#4
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I'm not entirely sure if the V uses an orifice tube or a TXV... I'll try to remember and look at mine when I get home. What is the problem you're experiencing with the A/C?
#5
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I went to Advanced Discount Auto today and got a new Dessicant bag and the kit had a big brass valve in it.
Doesn't look like it should be too tough to get to. I'm going to yank off the line from the compressor and clean that out with some Brakleen, and probly yank the condensor and see if there's smutz in there, and clean it up a bit and get as much of the debris out as possible.
-meaty
#7
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I don't remember at all, but when he went and equalized the system, the small tube side went almost immediately to zero.
When running the A/C to charge the system, he said when he felt the tubes, it felt like the small one wasn't getting any flow, because the tempeture of the tubes were not like they should be (getting cold, or whatever.).
I think that's what I remember.
-meaty
When running the A/C to charge the system, he said when he felt the tubes, it felt like the small one wasn't getting any flow, because the tempeture of the tubes were not like they should be (getting cold, or whatever.).
I think that's what I remember.
-meaty
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#8
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Well first off an A/C system has a built in restriction that's essential to it's operation...if you were charging the system with it running it could indeed run low pressure because of the fact it isn't a full charge... you really need to know what both high and low side pressures are to accurately diagnose a problem... mainly the high side pressure. If there is an unwanted restriction in the system your high side pressure will be through the roof and low side will be on the low end... in the case that both high and low side pressures are on the low end it could simply be a low charge and keep adding a little more refrigerant. Here is a Pressure/Temp chart that you can use to help you diagnose or charge the system. Keep in mind this pressure is STATIC... if you're running the system you'll want to pay attention to the high side gauge... add 30 degrees on the chart and that's ROUGHLY what the pressure should be. Example... 100 degrees out and A/C on... according to the chart your high side should be around 198psi. Again this is a guideline and not necessarily exact. Pressures may be higher due to variables such as humidity and how much air flow you have across the condenser. Vehicles without electric fans tend to show much higher pressures... you almost have to stick a fan in front of the vehicle to simulate driving. Hope this helps... if you happen to have any more questions I'd be more than happy to help... I'm a bus mechanic and do tons of A/C work... just PM me.
http://energy350.com/wp-content/uplo...ion-Curves.pdf
http://energy350.com/wp-content/uplo...ion-Curves.pdf
#9
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We went and put 1.3lbs of R134 into the system, which was stated on a couple different forums as being the proper amount to add into a completely drained and vacuumed system.
I don't remember exactly what the pressures on the gauges were, I really didn't pay much attention, but his grandfather was a mechanic for the county for 30+ years and worked on the fleet of police cruisers for the county. So I assume he knows the proper pressures and whatnot for the system, but things could be a ton different from when he worked on stuff.
I do remember him saying when he would either open or close the lines, the pressures on the small line would drop almost immediately to 0.
Also, out of the 1.3 lbs we put in, we only got out 1.16 lbs when we evacuated the system so I could figure out what's up with it again.
-meaty
I don't remember exactly what the pressures on the gauges were, I really didn't pay much attention, but his grandfather was a mechanic for the county for 30+ years and worked on the fleet of police cruisers for the county. So I assume he knows the proper pressures and whatnot for the system, but things could be a ton different from when he worked on stuff.
I do remember him saying when he would either open or close the lines, the pressures on the small line would drop almost immediately to 0.
Also, out of the 1.3 lbs we put in, we only got out 1.16 lbs when we evacuated the system so I could figure out what's up with it again.
-meaty