My Dyno Numbers & Tune Question
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Finally got the V to the dyno on friday, first pull was 418hp & 382tq, Second Pull after a few adjustments was 423hp & 380tq.
The major mods are in my signature, overall I am thrilled with the results. They came in right about where I expected them to.
So here's my Tune question, when I first took the car in it wouldn't idle at all, barley got it into the shop. With a few keystrokes on his laptop my tuner got it to idle great and not smell so bad! (apparently it was running really rich from the new injectors). Tune went great, was able to drive the car all the way home (180 mile journey) with no issues.
Then yesterday as I was exiting a freeway the car threw a code and immediately went into reduced power mode. I pulled over and let the car sit for a while and was able to start it right back up again and drive away. The code was a P1516 (Throttle Actuator Control Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance), I believe it was a result of a vacuum tube that connects to the TB falling off the passenger side valve cover.
The problem is now the car doesn't idle again, it wants to die as soon I start it. Could a reduced power mode or that code screw with the tune in anyway??
Here are Dyno Sheets:
![](http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad335/ellioth3771/07-29-2012093658PM.jpg)
The major mods are in my signature, overall I am thrilled with the results. They came in right about where I expected them to.
So here's my Tune question, when I first took the car in it wouldn't idle at all, barley got it into the shop. With a few keystrokes on his laptop my tuner got it to idle great and not smell so bad! (apparently it was running really rich from the new injectors). Tune went great, was able to drive the car all the way home (180 mile journey) with no issues.
Then yesterday as I was exiting a freeway the car threw a code and immediately went into reduced power mode. I pulled over and let the car sit for a while and was able to start it right back up again and drive away. The code was a P1516 (Throttle Actuator Control Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance), I believe it was a result of a vacuum tube that connects to the TB falling off the passenger side valve cover.
The problem is now the car doesn't idle again, it wants to die as soon I start it. Could a reduced power mode or that code screw with the tune in anyway??
Here are Dyno Sheets:
![](http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad335/ellioth3771/07-29-2012093658PM.jpg)
![](http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad335/ellioth3771/07-29-2012093449PM.jpg)
Last edited by etcts-v; 07-30-2012 at 11:59 AM.
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Good info, I was kind of thinking this may be the case. I think I'll just work on getting a LS2 throttle body and FAST 90 intake.
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The tune can't be lost by pulling the fuse or by the car going into reduced power mode correct? My understanding is once it's flashed you would have to replace it with new mapping to lose it.
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Could you not carry the rpm to 6600? Your cutting off at 6300ish.
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Thanks fellas!!
Not sure about the rpm, I've never tried to get there myself and the guy tuning was running the car during the pulls.
Just got an e-mail back from the tuner, he told me to try an idle re-learn tonight, we'll give that a shot!
Just got an e-mail back from the tuner, he told me to try an idle re-learn tonight, we'll give that a shot!
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FAST is in the nearer future than I expected, my Throttle body is putting me into reduced power mode every time I open the car up... Damn MOD Hell...
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I had a ported TB and intake on my old setup and was throwing reduced power. I believe I had the same code as yours and borrowed 2 TB's from buddies, and didn't fix the issue. Ended up being my gas pedal went bad it was like $80 or $90. So try and borrow a TB before you buy a new TB.
Also man that graph sure is choppy who did your tune because there's still power left on the table?
This was my old setup in my ls2 before the ls3 with ported ls2 intake and TB, afr225, and pat g cam.
Also man that graph sure is choppy who did your tune because there's still power left on the table?
This was my old setup in my ls2 before the ls3 with ported ls2 intake and TB, afr225, and pat g cam.
![](http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/racinking10/IMG_2818.jpg)
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That's why you need to go to someone who knows what they're doing (or leave it alone). There are only a couple of guys in the country that have the training and experience to do it right. Shame that the Affordable Speed guy retired. The same goes for intake manifold porting.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 07-31-2012 at 04:10 PM.
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That's why you need to go to someone who knows what they're doing (or leave it alone). There are only a couple of guys in the country that have the training and experience to do it right. Shame that the Affordable Speed guy retired. The same goes for intake manifold porting.
when i bought my new one i could feel the difference just pushing on the butterfly valve with my finger. my bad ones had hardly ant resistance..the new one took force to open it..i have not had a problem since and it will stay as it is.my car is finally problem free
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)