LS7 clutch help please
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Im sure this subject has been beaten to death, but is there a step by step guide on how to do this swap?
Also im trying to order all the parts i need tonight so i can have them shipped in by next week. Is there anything special i need other than the clutch?
The car is a 2004
Also im trying to order all the parts i need tonight so i can have them shipped in by next week. Is there anything special i need other than the clutch?
The car is a 2004
#2
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Step 1: Buy LS7 clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, flywheel bolts, LS7 slave cylinder, bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid, and *Tick remote bleeder for the LS7 slave
Step 2: Remove trans, bellhousing, pressure plate, clutch, POS dual mass flywheel, and slave cylinder
Step 3: Install new parts and trans
Step 4: Enjoy. Not trying to be a dick, but it's really that straight forward. Searching will get you what you need.
The biggest PITA is bleeding the system. I have found the easiest way is to bleed it conventionally until you start getting pedal feel, then open the bleeder as the clutch is slowly depressed...but you have to make sure that you close the bleeder before the pedal reaches the end of travel. Pump the pedal 10x between bleeding and repeat this a few times.
Step 2: Remove trans, bellhousing, pressure plate, clutch, POS dual mass flywheel, and slave cylinder
Step 3: Install new parts and trans
Step 4: Enjoy. Not trying to be a dick, but it's really that straight forward. Searching will get you what you need.
The biggest PITA is bleeding the system. I have found the easiest way is to bleed it conventionally until you start getting pedal feel, then open the bleeder as the clutch is slowly depressed...but you have to make sure that you close the bleeder before the pedal reaches the end of travel. Pump the pedal 10x between bleeding and repeat this a few times.
#3
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I called mike at East Coast Performance. They've been running an LS7 clutch promotion for a while. He set me up with everything I needed.
Here is a write-up on a clutch install: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html
Here is a write-up on a clutch install: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html
#4
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the info, i already have a LS7 clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel that came out of my buddies Z06. Just didnt know if i needed anything else. guess ill need to find some bolts and a slave. I thought he told me i needed to order something from katech, but maybe not.
#5
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree with DMM. There are guides available. This one got me most of the way there:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html
By the way, this is the single hardest installation you'll ever do on this car. Other things you need:
1. 26 spline tool
2. At least 4 feet of extension
3. The $75 Harbor Freight transmission jack
4. Transmission and differential fluid of your choice (now is a good time)
5. Short shifter and UUC bushings if you haven't already done those
6. Blue Loctite
New flywheel bolts are required because they're torque-to-yield (not reusable). Definitely get the Tick remote bleeder. By the way, any of the F1 Racing kits (like the more expensive LS7 MF kit, for example) have a lot of what you need already.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-MF-RACE-C...&forceRpt=true
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html
By the way, this is the single hardest installation you'll ever do on this car. Other things you need:
1. 26 spline tool
2. At least 4 feet of extension
3. The $75 Harbor Freight transmission jack
4. Transmission and differential fluid of your choice (now is a good time)
5. Short shifter and UUC bushings if you haven't already done those
6. Blue Loctite
New flywheel bolts are required because they're torque-to-yield (not reusable). Definitely get the Tick remote bleeder. By the way, any of the F1 Racing kits (like the more expensive LS7 MF kit, for example) have a lot of what you need already.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-MF-RACE-C...&forceRpt=true
#6
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the info, i already have a LS7 clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel that came out of my buddies Z06. Just didnt know if i needed anything else. guess ill need to find some bolts and a slave. I thought he told me i needed to order something from katech, but maybe not.
#7
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the info, i already have a LS7 clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel that came out of my buddies Z06. Just didnt know if i needed anything else. guess ill need to find some bolts and a slave. I thought he told me i needed to order something from katech, but maybe not.
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great thank you so much! one more question, can i not just reuse my stock slave? i just looked up the katech spacer will this work? http://store.katechengines.com/cts-v...pacer-p95.aspx
#9
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's a good idea to replace your pilot bearing while you're in there. You'll need a pilot bearing extractor tool which i think u can rent from auto parts stores.
I'll second or third the recommendation for the remote bleeder. It takes all the hassle out of bleeding and you'll likely not get all the air out the first time.
I'll second or third the recommendation for the remote bleeder. It takes all the hassle out of bleeding and you'll likely not get all the air out the first time.
#11
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great thank you so much! one more question, can i not just reuse my stock slave? i just looked up the katech spacer will this work? http://store.katechengines.com/cts-v...pacer-p95.aspx
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
Seriously, look up my name on Google with "LS7" and "shim" as keywords. I went through 6-7 rounds on my transmission trying to figure this out. Do NOT shim your LS2 slave. I've already went through the Katech shim + LS2 slave trap. Complete waste of money, for two reasons: first, that shim isn't quite thick enough, so you'll never quite get the clutch fully disengaged. Second, the outer diameter of the LS7 slave's throw-out bearing (the part of the slave that forces the pressure plate fingers in) is slightly bigger than the LS2. Combine a LS7 pressure plate with a LS2 slave and you get clutch pedal vibration under light-to-moderate pressure because that slave can't quite hit all of the fingers evenly.