Getting Ready for clutch install
#21
#22
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Unbolt the cross member take drive shaft out and let weight of transmission pull engine back as you lower the jack. I actually have a 3 1/2 foot extension with a swivel impact socket I use. If you let the engine tilt back you can get the bolt.
#27
I gave up on the bellhousing right now. All I have left is the one 12 o'clock bolt and 3 o'clock bolt.
This is all new to me.
I'm replace the isolator cup with bronze Upgraded cup.
Front case was leaking and I order a new shaft seal.
Im going to RTV the front case.
This is all new to me.
I'm replace the isolator cup with bronze Upgraded cup.
Front case was leaking and I order a new shaft seal.
Im going to RTV the front case.
#28
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You couldn't lower the back of the transmission with the driveshaft and cross member in the car. I admit I haven't taken mine out YET but I have done countless other cars that way. On the older cars you typically remove the distributor cap and or unbolt fan shroud. It also helps that I have a nearly 4 foot extension that fits a 1/2inch drive impact and uses 3/8 drive impact sockets on the other end. One of the best tool investments I have ever made.
#35
I got my cup from thegearbox.com
Stone17,
don't forget to lube the cup well before you seal it up...not even sure what you'd use... I added a tiny bit of lithium grease just so the shift rod would pop in and move smoothly when I reinstalled it..but added nothing more before I reinstalled my trans. I didn't realize this until I was completely done...and obviously wasn't going back in to check at that point. I was hoping the trans would throw fluid up in there and help, but I'm not sure if it does...seems like it's harder to shift than when I had it out of the car...then again my 'new' clutch (flywheel actually) is fubar, so maybe that's the issue.
regarding the bellhousing bolts, easiest way is just to reach back behind the engine to get the top one...it's pretty easy you just have to find it. For the other one you just snake your hand up there from the bottom and get it with a wrench. The second time around I think I got to them both with extensions and a swivel socket connector..
#36
WOW. Thanks for all the help guys.
This morning I removed the last two bell housing bolts. I had to remove the clutch to get the bell housing out. Only took 2 hours to remove
Fly wheel fell on my hand but it's all good, some what.
Now I'm just waiting on money
If you must see what happen to my hand.
That thing is heavy. Slipped out of my hand.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14.../WP_001478.jpg
This morning I removed the last two bell housing bolts. I had to remove the clutch to get the bell housing out. Only took 2 hours to remove
Fly wheel fell on my hand but it's all good, some what.
Now I'm just waiting on money
If you must see what happen to my hand.
That thing is heavy. Slipped out of my hand.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14.../WP_001478.jpg
Last edited by Stone17; 11-11-2012 at 04:07 PM.
#37
Stone17,
don't forget to lube the cup well before you seal it up...not even sure what you'd use... I added a tiny bit of lithium grease just so the shift rod would pop in and move smoothly when I reinstalled it..but added nothing more before I reinstalled my trans. I didn't realize this until I was completely done...and obviously wasn't going back in to check at that point. I was hoping the trans would throw fluid up in there and help, but I'm not sure if it does...seems like it's harder to shift than when I had it out of the car...then again my 'new' clutch (flywheel actually) is fubar, so maybe that's the issue.
regarding the bellhousing bolts, easiest way is just to reach back behind the engine to get the top one...it's pretty easy you just have to find it. For the other one you just snake your hand up there from the bottom and get it with a wrench. The second time around I think I got to them both with extensions and a swivel socket connector..
don't forget to lube the cup well before you seal it up...not even sure what you'd use... I added a tiny bit of lithium grease just so the shift rod would pop in and move smoothly when I reinstalled it..but added nothing more before I reinstalled my trans. I didn't realize this until I was completely done...and obviously wasn't going back in to check at that point. I was hoping the trans would throw fluid up in there and help, but I'm not sure if it does...seems like it's harder to shift than when I had it out of the car...then again my 'new' clutch (flywheel actually) is fubar, so maybe that's the issue.
regarding the bellhousing bolts, easiest way is just to reach back behind the engine to get the top one...it's pretty easy you just have to find it. For the other one you just snake your hand up there from the bottom and get it with a wrench. The second time around I think I got to them both with extensions and a swivel socket connector..
This is the first picture I took when I removed the cover. It's look to get lube up.
#38
Stone, sorry to hear about your hand. I've been there...not in exactly the same way, but when I was tightening my harmonic balancer bolt (requires 250 ft-lbs of torque) via a long torque wrench with a pipe over it, I was giving it everything I got when the socket slipped off the end and I whacked my funny bone on the fender so hard that my entire right arm went numb for about 2-3 minutes.
Does the cup pop right out by hand, or do I need to acquire special tools and/or instructions to get it out?
you have to pull the trans, remove the 4 bolts holding the shift rod assembly plate and there it is... I found that it was about the same as the plastic from a freeplay perspective but it was firmer/notchier/more precise. The plastic is actually very hard and durable. I accidentally stepped on it and it didn't break..
I got my cup from thegearbox.com
I got my cup from thegearbox.com