REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings
02-25-2013, 08:13 PM
#241
OK, just jacked it up loosened cradle bolts, jacked the diff (a little), then pulled the cradle back (given how high i had it jacked up on the rear and the fact that the revshift bushings are wider at the top obscuring my alignment marks I thought it may have shifted forward). Off for a drive to see what affect if any it had on the noise.
02-27-2013, 05:46 AM
#244
Does anyone know what the torque numbers are for the 4 cradle bolts and then the traling arm bolts? I am finally gonna get around to snugging them all up and want to torque them down correctly
04-16-2013, 11:43 AM
#247
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Hey all, I'm about to order the diff bushing and Trailing arm bushings, and was wondering if anyone else has them installed and could provide feedback. Sssnake's comments about additional noise are making me double think the 95A vs 80A.
I currently have the Spectre Werks cradle inserts and a Creative Steel diff mount and don't have much noise, but I'm thinking that the Spectre Werks and 95A RevShift diff bushing may be a bit aggressive of a combo.
I currently have the Spectre Werks cradle inserts and a Creative Steel diff mount and don't have much noise, but I'm thinking that the Spectre Werks and 95A RevShift diff bushing may be a bit aggressive of a combo.
04-16-2013, 11:45 AM
#248
Hey all, I'm about to order the diff bushing and Trailing arm bushings, and was wondering if anyone else has them installed and could provide feedback. Sssnake's comments about additional noise are making me double think the 95A vs 80A.
I currently have the Spectre Werks cradle inserts and a Creative Steel diff mount and don't have much noise, but I'm thinking that the Spectre Werks and 95A RevShift diff bushing may be a bit aggressive of a combo.
I currently have the Spectre Werks cradle inserts and a Creative Steel diff mount and don't have much noise, but I'm thinking that the Spectre Werks and 95A RevShift diff bushing may be a bit aggressive of a combo.
04-16-2013, 12:44 PM
#249
You will hear additional noise with a stiffer differential bushing, but if you were okay with the noise caused by the metal sleeved 87A Creative Steel unit, you will be fine with the 95A Revshift unit. This noise is worthwhile, given the benefit and can be totally dampened/attenuated with the proper acoustic mods.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 04-16-2013 at 12:57 PM.
04-16-2013, 01:44 PM
#250
TECH Enthusiast
Just installed my Blue cradle bushings and rear trailing arm bushings . . . .and WOW. What a difference. Hop is completely gone even on a damp road. I also have the Gforce econo axles (both sides). Car is so solid now feels like it should have from the factory.
I had the BMR anti wheelhop spacers in place before which increased rear end noise slightly in the cabin. The revshift bushings quieted the rear end noise slightly compare to the AWH kit. Otherwise nothing objectionable to complain about.
Great job Revshift!
I had the BMR anti wheelhop spacers in place before which increased rear end noise slightly in the cabin. The revshift bushings quieted the rear end noise slightly compare to the AWH kit. Otherwise nothing objectionable to complain about.
Great job Revshift!
04-16-2013, 03:00 PM
#251
Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Bushings I just installed the red 95A rear cradle bushings and trailing arm bushings this past weekend. So far I haven't noticed any additional noise.
As for the trailing arm bushings they are easy. I took the entire hub off just so I could get it up on the bench and secure it in the vice. Used a 1/2 inch drill with a hole saw just big enough to fit over the inner metal sleeve and small enough not to score or scrape the aluminum. I know everyone says it can be done on the car, but I personally didn't feel like laying on the ground.
Oh and for the rear cradle bushings, just take the cradle out of the car. It is way easier. Don't even mess around with trying to lower it just enough. The rear cradle can be out by disconnecting the e-brake cable, just the main one in the center, the two brake lines on the passengers side, and the sensor wires. That is of course after the exhaust is out and the drive shaft disconnected from the differential. After that all that's left are the 4 cradle bolts and the lower shock bolts. Drop it down, slide it out and enjoy removing the bushings with room to work. I found the best tool for me was a 7/16 spade bit and the 1/2 inch drill. The spade bit takes out large amounts of rubber. After that just use the saws all and cut the inner sleeve. I made two cuts about a 1/4 inch from each other and used a small chisel to peel the 1/4 inch wide sliver. That really let the sleeve collapse and it fell out. Get some big C clamps to help press the inner sleeve into the new Revshift bushings.
As for the trailing arm bushings they are easy. I took the entire hub off just so I could get it up on the bench and secure it in the vice. Used a 1/2 inch drill with a hole saw just big enough to fit over the inner metal sleeve and small enough not to score or scrape the aluminum. I know everyone says it can be done on the car, but I personally didn't feel like laying on the ground.
Oh and for the rear cradle bushings, just take the cradle out of the car. It is way easier. Don't even mess around with trying to lower it just enough. The rear cradle can be out by disconnecting the e-brake cable, just the main one in the center, the two brake lines on the passengers side, and the sensor wires. That is of course after the exhaust is out and the drive shaft disconnected from the differential. After that all that's left are the 4 cradle bolts and the lower shock bolts. Drop it down, slide it out and enjoy removing the bushings with room to work. I found the best tool for me was a 7/16 spade bit and the 1/2 inch drill. The spade bit takes out large amounts of rubber. After that just use the saws all and cut the inner sleeve. I made two cuts about a 1/4 inch from each other and used a small chisel to peel the 1/4 inch wide sliver. That really let the sleeve collapse and it fell out. Get some big C clamps to help press the inner sleeve into the new Revshift bushings.
Last edited by 05CTSV; 04-16-2013 at 03:10 PM.
04-16-2013, 04:22 PM
#252
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Sssnake and Chit town 21y I assume you are both still on stock diffs and getting the whine? Did it jst get worse each bushing, was one worse than the other.
ALL, How is the wheel hop after these?
Any roadnoise or vibraitons induced?
ALL, How is the wheel hop after these?
Any roadnoise or vibraitons induced?
04-16-2013, 05:30 PM
#253
Vibrations no. Noise, nothing I can hear. It just rained here, I did a rolling 5MPH to wide open throttle, hammered second absolutely no wheel hop. Before with the stock bushings it would break the tires loose and wheel hop like crazy. I'd say in my case it's a 95-99% improvement. With those 95A cradle bushings the cradle is not going to bounce and flop around like the soggy factory bushings. Also, I feel that the overall handling is 10x better than before. Bumps and dips don't seem as harsh. Makes it feel like the muscle car it should have been off the factory assembly line. Revshift nailed it with these bushings. Don't ask questions, just order them and install, you won't be disappointed.
05-01-2013, 08:39 AM
#254
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I ORDERED MOTOR, TRANS, AND CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS 5 WEEKS AGO FROM REVSHIFT ... STILL NO PARTS. They won't answer the phone and when they do its BS and never answer emails. last friday they finally answered the phone and gave me a shipping tracking number and it hasn't even been picked up for delivery. DON'T ORDER FROM THEM. I'll give you a update if I ever get my parts.
05-01-2013, 09:29 AM
#255
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I wouldn't order from REVSHIFT!! I ORDERED MOTOR, TRANS, AND CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS 5 (five) WEEKS AGO FROM REVSHIFT ... STILL NO PARTS. They won't answer the phone and when they do its BS and never answer emails. last friday they finally answered the phone and gave me a shipping tracking number and it hasn't even been picked up for delivery. DON'T ORDER FROM THEM. I'll give you a update if I ever get my parts.
05-06-2013, 11:08 AM
#256
Control arm bushing question:
I drilled out the rubber bushing cores, but it looks like there's a think metal sleeve inside of the aluminum arm. Am I supposed to remove that, and if so, how did you manage it?
I drilled out the rubber bushing cores, but it looks like there's a think metal sleeve inside of the aluminum arm. Am I supposed to remove that, and if so, how did you manage it?
05-06-2013, 11:23 AM
#257
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...g-install.html
05-06-2013, 02:02 PM
#258
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Mdw7669 that's what you get when you order custom parts. If you had a place to order the parts else where I'm sure you would but since you dont it's something you will have to wait for. I had to wait 3 months for my 8.8 kit. Unfortunately when you have only one supplier for a part you have to wait for them.
05-07-2013, 02:58 PM
#259
Mdw7669 that's what you get when you order custom parts. If you had a place to order the parts else where I'm sure you would but since you dont it's something you will have to wait for. I had to wait 3 months for my 8.8 kit. Unfortunately when you have only one supplier for a part you have to wait for them.
Cadillac made at least 500,000 of our vehicles, so .....oh wait.....right.
05-07-2013, 03:18 PM
#260
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I just installed the red 95A rear cradle bushings and trailing arm bushings this past weekend. So far I haven't noticed any additional noise.
As for the trailing arm bushings they are easy. I took the entire hub off just so I could get it up on the bench and secure it in the vice. Used a 1/2 inch drill with a hole saw just big enough to fit over the inner metal sleeve and small enough not to score or scrape the aluminum. I know everyone says it can be done on the car, but I personally didn't feel like laying on the ground.
Oh and for the rear cradle bushings, just take the cradle out of the car. It is way easier. Don't even mess around with trying to lower it just enough. The rear cradle can be out by disconnecting the e-brake cable, just the main one in the center, the two brake lines on the passengers side, and the sensor wires. That is of course after the exhaust is out and the drive shaft disconnected from the differential. After that all that's left are the 4 cradle bolts and the lower shock bolts. Drop it down, slide it out and enjoy removing the bushings with room to work. I found the best tool for me was a 7/16 spade bit and the 1/2 inch drill. The spade bit takes out large amounts of rubber. After that just use the saws all and cut the inner sleeve. I made two cuts about a 1/4 inch from each other and used a small chisel to peel the 1/4 inch wide sliver. That really let the sleeve collapse and it fell out. Get some big C clamps to help press the inner sleeve into the new Revshift bushings.
As for the trailing arm bushings they are easy. I took the entire hub off just so I could get it up on the bench and secure it in the vice. Used a 1/2 inch drill with a hole saw just big enough to fit over the inner metal sleeve and small enough not to score or scrape the aluminum. I know everyone says it can be done on the car, but I personally didn't feel like laying on the ground.
Oh and for the rear cradle bushings, just take the cradle out of the car. It is way easier. Don't even mess around with trying to lower it just enough. The rear cradle can be out by disconnecting the e-brake cable, just the main one in the center, the two brake lines on the passengers side, and the sensor wires. That is of course after the exhaust is out and the drive shaft disconnected from the differential. After that all that's left are the 4 cradle bolts and the lower shock bolts. Drop it down, slide it out and enjoy removing the bushings with room to work. I found the best tool for me was a 7/16 spade bit and the 1/2 inch drill. The spade bit takes out large amounts of rubber. After that just use the saws all and cut the inner sleeve. I made two cuts about a 1/4 inch from each other and used a small chisel to peel the 1/4 inch wide sliver. That really let the sleeve collapse and it fell out. Get some big C clamps to help press the inner sleeve into the new Revshift bushings.