RevShift MM
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I installed the blue RevShift motor mounts last night and I am really happy with the improvement over the stock busted driver's side mount. The car starts and shuts down much smoother now (like a normal car!). I also notice the car does not "bang" when I shift gears now like it used to as soon as you stepped on the clutch.
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Yesterday I did not notice any extra vibrations or noise on my shakedown run. Today, during my more mundane highway commute to work, I noticed a barely perceptible increase in tire/drive-train noise (might of had a lot to do with colder tires in the morning & the fact that I removed the engine cover.. why cover up an LS6?).
Bottom line, as of now, no regrets. Very happy with the product. I just hope they last a lot longer than the stock mounts did.
On the funny side I'll share a mistake I made with you guys during the removal of the stock mounts. When I was trying to unbolt the lower mounts I used a deep well 18mm on the underside nut and broke a few adapters in the process (3/8 drive). Well, after further investigation it looks like that nut is welded to the frame, lol. I only figured that out after I broke the nut off of the driver's side. So, yeah, don't make the same mistake I did and just take the bolt out from the top without trying to break the nut from the bottom (even though it did make it easier to get the bolt out). The job was not hard but there is not much room and I had to take the mounts apart in the engine cavity to get them out, which was a PITA but not terrible.
Another item of note, I bought the blue mounts with the "heat shields" from RevShift. With their shields on the mounts the stock shields also loosely fit on the mounts so I threw them on there, too, for good measure.
Yesterday I did not notice any extra vibrations or noise on my shakedown run. Today, during my more mundane highway commute to work, I noticed a barely perceptible increase in tire/drive-train noise (might of had a lot to do with colder tires in the morning & the fact that I removed the engine cover.. why cover up an LS6?).
Bottom line, as of now, no regrets. Very happy with the product. I just hope they last a lot longer than the stock mounts did.
On the funny side I'll share a mistake I made with you guys during the removal of the stock mounts. When I was trying to unbolt the lower mounts I used a deep well 18mm on the underside nut and broke a few adapters in the process (3/8 drive). Well, after further investigation it looks like that nut is welded to the frame, lol. I only figured that out after I broke the nut off of the driver's side. So, yeah, don't make the same mistake I did and just take the bolt out from the top without trying to break the nut from the bottom (even though it did make it easier to get the bolt out). The job was not hard but there is not much room and I had to take the mounts apart in the engine cavity to get them out, which was a PITA but not terrible.
Another item of note, I bought the blue mounts with the "heat shields" from RevShift. With their shields on the mounts the stock shields also loosely fit on the mounts so I threw them on there, too, for good measure.
Last edited by MacLEAN; 12-17-2012 at 08:41 AM.
#2
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Haha, you should see my mounts. I wrapped the poly portion with leftover lavawrap from the headers, installed the CS heat shields that were included, and topped those off with the factory shields. It's a little ridiculous, but it didn't cost me anything extra and I'll be damned if they have heat deformation!
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Did you put the new mounts in as one piece, or did you shove the three separate components up there, then bolt them together?
I ended up doing the latter, just curious if anybody has done it any other way.
I ended up doing the latter, just curious if anybody has done it any other way.
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Ordering my MM's today. Both of my stock mounts are leaking bad!!
Also, how did their heat shields fit over the MM? I'm debating getting them or not, only because when I called they said they wasn't needed.
Also, how did their heat shields fit over the MM? I'm debating getting them or not, only because when I called they said they wasn't needed.
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I tried my damndest to get them in and out in one, or even two pieces. It just was not happening. I had to take everything out and put everything in one piece at a time. Annoying since it is difficult to tighten down the motor mount to the upper and lower brackets without having them bolted up to something.
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Kind of like a loose condom to be honest, lol. They felt really rubbery to me and I am not sure how well they will do their job. The additional girth did allow me to put the stock shields on there without them just sliding down the mount though. It was still a loose fit though with the stock heat shields and I fully expect them to walk a little over time.
#7
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I received my red ones last week and am going to install them this coming weekend. Thanks for the heads. I'm curious to see how they will feel since I haven't seen/heard any of the ctsv guys say anything about the red MM
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#10
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I'm in the process of installing mine. I finished up the passenger side without a hitch. Keep in mind, I have Pacesetters that are welded at the collector, so I am trying to swap them without removing the headers to avoid having to get the collectors rewelded. I was able to swap the passenger side in about an hour without removing the headers, wheel or anything else. I had to separate the three pieces in the engine bay and then remove it piece by piece, which wasn't that bad. Just tricky getting it out around the steering rack, sway bar and frame.
Now, my question for the driver side is since the steering rack mates to the steering linkage there, and there is obviously no room to come out of the header side. Would I be better off cutting the exhaust at the weld and removing that header which would be the last thing I really want to do, or could I remove the steering rack and pull them out that way like I had done on the passenger side?
Anyone that has some insight on how I could do it without removing the driver side header would be appreciated.
Now, my question for the driver side is since the steering rack mates to the steering linkage there, and there is obviously no room to come out of the header side. Would I be better off cutting the exhaust at the weld and removing that header which would be the last thing I really want to do, or could I remove the steering rack and pull them out that way like I had done on the passenger side?
Anyone that has some insight on how I could do it without removing the driver side header would be appreciated.
#12
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I just finished installing mine today. I got the Blue 80A MM's. I still have stock manifolds, so tmonttt, can't help you there. I can say that the driver's side was my easier side for removal/install. Passenger side was a bitch. Took me about 3 hours total. Dunno how some people get it done in an hour...must be munchkins or creepy tiny hand people.
Review: Took her for a quick spin after the install. I had one dried busted stocker (drivers) and one liquid busted stocker...which decided to spill it's guts as my face was underneath. The difference between busted stockers and the Revshifts is amazing. Start up is smooth, and less noisy. Shut down has ZERO shake now. And it actually feels like positive shifts when I'm jumping on it, now that the motor isn't jumping all over the place! I've now installed the Trans insert and motor mounts. Both are great products (so far). I have the Diff bushing already, and will install that whenever I get around to ordering my new driveshaft. I see Cradle bushings in my future though!
Review: Took her for a quick spin after the install. I had one dried busted stocker (drivers) and one liquid busted stocker...which decided to spill it's guts as my face was underneath. The difference between busted stockers and the Revshifts is amazing. Start up is smooth, and less noisy. Shut down has ZERO shake now. And it actually feels like positive shifts when I'm jumping on it, now that the motor isn't jumping all over the place! I've now installed the Trans insert and motor mounts. Both are great products (so far). I have the Diff bushing already, and will install that whenever I get around to ordering my new driveshaft. I see Cradle bushings in my future though!
#13
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That's awesome that you got them installed! I installed RevShift mounts on another forum members car and they were excellent quality! They did not have heat shields, so I wrapped them in header wrap to protect them.
I thought the RevShift mounts raised the engine quite a bit though...has anyone else noticed this by chance?
I have a few particulars that I do when changing the mounts:
1. remove headers/manifolds, plugs, and coil packs
2. removed steering shaft from the rack and collapse
3. Support the engine with a thick block of wood (4x4) under the oil pan
4. loosen the engine cradle from the middle and rear cradle bolts
5. GET AN IMPACT SWIVEL! Makes your life MUCH easier!
6. I always remove the entire assembly per side, brackets and all. The lower engine mount stand has the stud with a 21mm nut, and a 15mm headed bolt that goes down through the cradle forward of the stud, if that makes sense.
7. leave the opposite side mount that you are working with bolted down so that the engine will pivot instead of lifting straight up. You can jack up the engine this was as long as you don't get crazy with it. You will have to raise the engine somewhat as the OE mounts will be sagging compared to the new ones.
Usually takes me an hour or less, depending on if exhaust bolts come apart easily.
I thought the RevShift mounts raised the engine quite a bit though...has anyone else noticed this by chance?
I have a few particulars that I do when changing the mounts:
1. remove headers/manifolds, plugs, and coil packs
2. removed steering shaft from the rack and collapse
3. Support the engine with a thick block of wood (4x4) under the oil pan
4. loosen the engine cradle from the middle and rear cradle bolts
5. GET AN IMPACT SWIVEL! Makes your life MUCH easier!
6. I always remove the entire assembly per side, brackets and all. The lower engine mount stand has the stud with a 21mm nut, and a 15mm headed bolt that goes down through the cradle forward of the stud, if that makes sense.
7. leave the opposite side mount that you are working with bolted down so that the engine will pivot instead of lifting straight up. You can jack up the engine this was as long as you don't get crazy with it. You will have to raise the engine somewhat as the OE mounts will be sagging compared to the new ones.
Usually takes me an hour or less, depending on if exhaust bolts come apart easily.
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I jacked the motor up from the oil pan after I removed the strut tower brace as far as it would go. I still could not get the mounts out without taking them apart. No need to remove the (stock) headers for me. That would of added a lot of time but made it easier for sure. I did not notice any difference in engine height but I did not really look for it either. All I know is that it is a lot better than it was before.
I also had to deal with the fluid/oil dripping all over me when I pulled out the driver's side mount. Not fun.
I ordered the diff bushing, too. I'm hoping that is not too bad to replace. I am not really happy about going at it with a saw or torch...
If the cradle bushings solve wheel hop I'll jump on that bandwagon too I guess, lol.
I also had to deal with the fluid/oil dripping all over me when I pulled out the driver's side mount. Not fun.
I ordered the diff bushing, too. I'm hoping that is not too bad to replace. I am not really happy about going at it with a saw or torch...
If the cradle bushings solve wheel hop I'll jump on that bandwagon too I guess, lol.
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Typically, 24-48 hours. We have been a little behind since the release of our highly successful cradle bushings, trailing arm bushings, and diff bushing. We are finally getting caught up, though, and everything is getting back on track.
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Hah, straight from the horses mouth. That's good to know. Hopefully I'll get them before christmas or else it will probably be february before I can get them installed.
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I ordered mine on Monday and can't wait to receive them and install them as the consensus seems to be that they make a world of difference with little to no added vibration (that is unacceptable to most standards) . Still haven't shipped yet from Revshift however, and I am a bit worried that I may not see them until after the new year which would suck as I will be out of town and unable to receive them or install them.
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Post 35. This is compared with a new mount though.