Let the madness begin (blower build w/pics)
#21
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Well that's the difference between Calgary and Winnipeg I guess.
Machine work was ~2300. 300 extra for pinning main caps(2600)
THen buy the rods, pistons, rings, arp bolts, bearings... cost comes to ~4300 (4600 pinning)
Balanced/blueprinted / align honed / tq bored etc. polish stock crank. frost plugs, file fit rings, bearings install etc...
And add the +4 month waiting list!
OR TPS comes to 4289 US. + 320US ship + GST = ~4880 can. and they do it in a month.
so for extra 550 bucks (or less), I now have an extra LS1/6 block with guts. I can easily break even, plan to get some money back actually.
Keep tabs of our builds!
Machine work was ~2300. 300 extra for pinning main caps(2600)
THen buy the rods, pistons, rings, arp bolts, bearings... cost comes to ~4300 (4600 pinning)
Balanced/blueprinted / align honed / tq bored etc. polish stock crank. frost plugs, file fit rings, bearings install etc...
And add the +4 month waiting list!
OR TPS comes to 4289 US. + 320US ship + GST = ~4880 can. and they do it in a month.
so for extra 550 bucks (or less), I now have an extra LS1/6 block with guts. I can easily break even, plan to get some money back actually.
Keep tabs of our builds!
#22
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Well that's the difference between Calgary and Winnipeg I guess.
Machine work was ~2300. 300 extra for pinning main caps(2600)
THen buy the rods, pistons, rings, arp bolts, bearings... cost comes to ~4300 (4600 pinning)
Balanced/blueprinted / align honed / tq bored etc. polish stock crank. frost plugs, file fit rings, bearings install etc...
And add the +4 month waiting list!
OR TPS comes to 4289 US. + 320US ship + GST = ~4880 can. and they do it in a month.
so for extra 550 bucks (or less), I now have an extra LS1/6 block with guts. I can easily break even, plan to get some money back actually.
Keep tabs of our builds!
Machine work was ~2300. 300 extra for pinning main caps(2600)
THen buy the rods, pistons, rings, arp bolts, bearings... cost comes to ~4300 (4600 pinning)
Balanced/blueprinted / align honed / tq bored etc. polish stock crank. frost plugs, file fit rings, bearings install etc...
And add the +4 month waiting list!
OR TPS comes to 4289 US. + 320US ship + GST = ~4880 can. and they do it in a month.
so for extra 550 bucks (or less), I now have an extra LS1/6 block with guts. I can easily break even, plan to get some money back actually.
Keep tabs of our builds!
But I am actually liking the experience of building an LS engine.
#23
Ill have the heads, intake, throttle, maf, fuel and all the extras as well (excluding accessories) to sell as well. Pretty much the same as you are doing. (excluding windage tray and oil pan)
Using similar heads that you have there pn 1660), but Im going to guess you have 72cc.
Need a clutch though.. hope this Mcleod deal goes through.
will do.
Using similar heads that you have there pn 1660), but Im going to guess you have 72cc.
Need a clutch though.. hope this Mcleod deal goes through.
will do.
#25
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Here's the cam I ended choosing
tsp 224/228 .581/.588 114 lsa
Nothing too exciting, but valve train friendly.
Wondering @ 8.9:1 should I bother bumping it up to 9:1?
tsp 224/228 .581/.588 114 lsa
Nothing too exciting, but valve train friendly.
Wondering @ 8.9:1 should I bother bumping it up to 9:1?
#26
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Good deal man, you're making good progress. I'd still try to stick with 9:1. I think Fuzzy's cam (TRuTorq L3 cam 223/236 .612/.610 115 LSA) would probably be the next step up, although I'd need to know the whole cam profile before I threw my money down for one.
The 224/228 cam is a hybrid of their 224 and 228 cams, which still work very well to this day. I believe they recommend their 224/228 for roots blowers and 228/224 for turbo's.
Looking forward to see what your combo puts down.
The 224/228 cam is a hybrid of their 224 and 228 cams, which still work very well to this day. I believe they recommend their 224/228 for roots blowers and 228/224 for turbo's.
Looking forward to see what your combo puts down.
Last edited by DMM; 01-21-2013 at 09:04 PM.
#28
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Well i decided to double check the specs on the Cometic head gasket I got. It's 0.040" thick and a different bore diameter than stock.
After punching in those numbers, instead of the assumed stock head gasket thickness of 0.050" and stock gasket bore size,
it brings me to 9:1 compression almost right on the money.
I know I could have went with a bigger cam, my goal was to keep it below
.600 lift just for valve spring longevity. It's a summer time daily, not just a weekend warrior.
I was going to get 115 lsa, but TSP suggested the 114, but said I couldn't go wrong either way.
Plus maybe I'll like the smidge of extra lope.
Anyway I ordered up all the rest of the supporting parts.
Melling high pressure oil pump
Billet cloyes timing gears w/ C5R chain
Some more ARP hardware
New knock sensors
new crank sensor
fel pro bottom end gaskets
New slave (my throw out bearing was toast)
New header Lave wrap
Some heat sleaving for engine bay wires (nice and easy now the motor is out)
And other odds and ends.
Also my UUC transmission bushing was toast too(seperated piece of junk) I had bought it before CS came out with one.
Guess I'll order a new one when it's time to order up the 8.8"
Also plan on doing the revshift rear cradle bushings.
After punching in those numbers, instead of the assumed stock head gasket thickness of 0.050" and stock gasket bore size,
it brings me to 9:1 compression almost right on the money.
I know I could have went with a bigger cam, my goal was to keep it below
.600 lift just for valve spring longevity. It's a summer time daily, not just a weekend warrior.
I was going to get 115 lsa, but TSP suggested the 114, but said I couldn't go wrong either way.
Plus maybe I'll like the smidge of extra lope.
Anyway I ordered up all the rest of the supporting parts.
Melling high pressure oil pump
Billet cloyes timing gears w/ C5R chain
Some more ARP hardware
New knock sensors
new crank sensor
fel pro bottom end gaskets
New slave (my throw out bearing was toast)
New header Lave wrap
Some heat sleaving for engine bay wires (nice and easy now the motor is out)
And other odds and ends.
Also my UUC transmission bushing was toast too(seperated piece of junk) I had bought it before CS came out with one.
Guess I'll order a new one when it's time to order up the 8.8"
Also plan on doing the revshift rear cradle bushings.
#31
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My uncle was using some Titanium on a street rod he's building and I could intantly tell it was better than the other DEI stuff.
The first stuff even has that silone spray on it and it still rotted out pretty quick.
I put the Titanium on dry which was alot less messy as when I did the other stuff wet. And no silicone spray this time either
#33
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Yeah VHT, I just used 1 can, no primer. Seeing as they are stainless steel and wrapped, figured I'd just give them a light coat. But 1 can seemed to cover pretty good, and actually got about 3 light coats on them.
#34
Hoo boy. I just bought two cans of primer and two cans of paint to go along with my DEI Titanium wrap (my old wrap is getting bad after a couple of winters).
#35
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That VHT stuff is stinky, think I got stoned just from bringing them inside to dry.
Is the wife gonna let you use the oven to bake it on, or are you just gonna bake em on the car? lol
#38
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Thanks !!
I planned on doing an Omega thermistor mod for my Iat sensor, because my sensor that was on the whipple was suspect. When I finally pulled it, I was right.
I know coolant sensors can be used for NA set ups, but definitely not recommended for FI. Now I can see why this little heat sink was getting heat soaked, and giving me false high intake temperature readings. Not sure why somebody would think it was a good idea to use this in this set up???
Anyway here's the new sensor I'll be putting it, probably more than adequate as is, but I'll be doing the Omega thermistor mod to this sensor housing.
I planned on doing an Omega thermistor mod for my Iat sensor, because my sensor that was on the whipple was suspect. When I finally pulled it, I was right.
I know coolant sensors can be used for NA set ups, but definitely not recommended for FI. Now I can see why this little heat sink was getting heat soaked, and giving me false high intake temperature readings. Not sure why somebody would think it was a good idea to use this in this set up???
Anyway here's the new sensor I'll be putting it, probably more than adequate as is, but I'll be doing the Omega thermistor mod to this sensor housing.