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Changed the fluid in the 8.8" rear. I didn't look back in my records to see when I had last done it, but it seemed like the diff was more inclined to whine when it starts to heat up, so I figured it was due. Used the Ford 75W-140 synthetic, which I had bought probably 18 months (or more) ago and had just never got around to putting in the diff. Even such a simple job couldn't be completed without some stupid issue - the suction hose fell off the fluid pump into the first bottle, so I had to fish that out with a bit of safety wire. I was actually surprised, I was able to get it out with just a minute or two of fiddling around.
How does the diff sound with the new fluid? I'm assuming you also used the Ford Friction modifier as well?
How does the diff sound with the new fluid? I'm assuming you also used the Ford Friction modifier as well?
I took it for a quick spin, but haven't driven on the highway yet to get it up to temp and see if it's any better. I've got a Truetrac diff, not a Traction-Lok or other plate-type limited slip, so I didn't use the friction modifier.
Well last night I replaced my failed power steering pressure hose at 105K.
For the benefit of others whom sooner or later will be doing this job I documented the work in this How to thread.
Started showing some cords on the rear tires so I swapped out my 275/35R18 widened wheel/tire combo for the stock 245/45R18's wheel/tire combo. I'm going to mount up some 275/40R18's on the dead widened rear wheels I just took off and get some traction back. I forgot what it was like to ride on a cloud with these stock size balloon tires. hahaha
Also Discovered while taking off the assemblies that my rear upper control arm bushings are TOAST. They are completely compressed and the arms are touching the subframe mounts. Time to get those replaced
Changed oil, oil filter back in late June. Sent off the oil to Blackstone. Another good report. Sitting at 105,000 miles now.
Oil pressure sensor went bad a few weeks ago. Was spiking and displaying 130PSI all the time. Then the sensor would randomly drop to 0PSI while driving and the slew of alarms would sound off and display at me. Found a cheap sensor on Amazon for $6. Got a socket at AutoZone for $12. Easy job and the sensor now displays correctly.
Installed the H&R springs I’ve had in my basement for the last year and a half. Looks so much better! Ride is a touch stiffer but in a good way. I’m super happy with it. Next on the list is the poly diff mount and block and I think I may drop the subframe and do all those bushings poly as well.
Does anyone know a place to buy the OEM or OEM style spoiler? Looks like GM has discontinued it. I just noticed today while I was washing the car that the paint is cracking/flaking away right on the inner lip where it sits on the top of the trunk lid. Paint is in great shape everywhere else on the car, so I suspect the OEM style spoiler was added by one of the previous owners and the aftermarket paint is starting to breakdown. As a temporary fix, I put some touch-up paint on the areas that flaked away and it looks OK for now- but i'd like to get it taken care of before it gets bad.
Does anyone know a place to buy the OEM or OEM style spoiler? Looks like GM has discontinued it. I just noticed today while I was washing the car that the paint is cracking/flaking away right on the inner lip where it sits on the top of the trunk lid. Paint is in great shape everywhere else on the car, so I suspect the OEM style spoiler was added by one of the previous owners and the aftermarket paint is starting to breakdown. As a temporary fix, I put some touch-up paint on the areas that flaked away and it looks OK for now- but i'd like to get it taken care of before it gets bad.
Does anyone know a place to buy the OEM or OEM style spoiler? Looks like GM has discontinued it. I just noticed today while I was washing the car that the paint is cracking/flaking away right on the inner lip where it sits on the top of the trunk lid. Paint is in great shape everywhere else on the car, so I suspect the OEM style spoiler was added by one of the previous owners and the aftermarket paint is starting to breakdown. As a temporary fix, I put some touch-up paint on the areas that flaked away and it looks OK for now- but i'd like to get it taken care of before it gets bad.
I have one I bought off of eBay and don’t intend to use it now. I just changed my mind. Let me know if you’re interested.
Careful with those eBay spoilers.
Years ago I did buy one for my 07` V6 CTS (I still have that car, it's my winter car and yes the paint on that spoiler has held up pretty nicely 8 years later)
The biggest problem is that for some stupid reason, the one I got has holes two on each side AND those mounting holes do not lineup with original access holes made for installing the factory spoiler.
Additionally there are no mounting holes in the center!
So yes, I have installed it, however I was very displeased that I had to drill new access holes AND that there are no center mounting holes unlike the factory spoiler.
I complained to the manufacturer of the spoiler and they just straight up ignored me like I was asking something stupid. But reality is, it's not exactly a drop in replacement for a stock spoiler.
The only way to get rid of the minor center gap due to lack of center mounting screws is to add perhaps some double sided tape.
Bottom line, for the $90 I paid, it's hard to complain much, but for the love of God why not make them 4 mounting points which lign up and are not just on the sides?
When I went to install the PS pressure line I noticed my leak was a bit more severe, rack seals blew out. Reman racks were going for $600 locally, $300 online but couldn't get one for a few weeks. Ended up grabbing one from LeeCparts off an 04 w/ 85k on it for $180 shipped. "Threw" that in, not something I want to do again. Knew I should have done it while the engine was out. Changed the oil while I was down there, had about 500 miles on the it after the heads/cam I did back in April. Have been using Mobil 1, but got some Amsoil off a coworker so giving that a whirl. With the new pump it's running around 40 at idle, 55 cruising at about 180F. Got it aligned today, feels good. Coming home from the gym tonight though, the alt stopped charging and the battery dropped to 12.3. Kicked back on again but still sketched out. Too warm to stick my hand down there tonight so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to check connections. I have a Mechman I need to send out for repair and put back on, should probably do that soon.
Your not going to see it until they finish up with the tooling for the hoses, which I am paying them to make.
I am expecting to receive the protoypes mid to late Jan to Mid February. I will then get them installed and send my final fitment info to them to finalize the design.
You will be able to get the heater core hoses, reservoir relocation kit, upper and lower radiator hose kit, evap lines (still not 100% on it) and brake booster hose.
They will all be formed silicone hoses, available in a variety of colors and logo options.
All of the hoses I've removed from my car or sourced from a guy who's car was taken apart and are either sitting in the UK with Samco as I type this up or on their way to Samco as I just sent the last hoses I removed.
The upper and lower are currently available via one source, Naf paid for the tooling to be made a few years back. After I ordered a set and got them in hand, the quality absolutely speaks for its self and I reached out to them about further development for hose kits for the V1.
Pretty much not going to happen unfortunately. Not many people want to pay for a $500 hose set. There is a guy selling them stateside, but I don't have his website info unfortunately.
Pretty much not going to happen unfortunately. Not many people want to pay for a $500 hose set. There is a guy selling them stateside, but I don't have his website info unfortunately.
-Byron
Bono Specialties is the guy stateside. I couldn't find an actual webstore, so not sure if you just contact them through facebook or insta where they have images and info.
Well it's dead. My clutch hydraulics finally **** the bed. Waiting on a billet bearing support to arrive and I'll be swapping out the master and slave.
Hopefully this will stay alive with the support vs the plastic OEM.
I'm glad I made sure I went with the Tick billet bearing support and a new LS2 slave when I was getting the T56 rebuilt, everyone can use a little insurance in that area.
Still waiting on my billet bearing support. It was sent with the wrong address and was returned to sender. They are now sending a new replacement. Sigh. Another month gone due to shipping.
On the plus side, I scored some carbon fiber brake ducts from a guy on the Facebook page.
I've only ever seen one person reference them, and they were on here from years back, so I don't even know 100% who made them. The last pic was jacked from LS1tech. Phoenix performance is mentioned as the maker.
I am curious how they attach, as I've never had the original ones from the factory to compare them with, so I'll be going in blind.
I'm thinking silicone couplers and run a Y up to the driver's side to direct air up to the Volant box. I'll poke a 3" hole in the bottom and add a 3" filter ring/velocity stack and join the bottom to a short length of 3" hose.
I'll get better pics when they make it to this side of the pond.
07-30-2020, 11:35 AM
- the suction hose fell off the fluid pump into the first bottle, so I had to fish that out with a bit of safety wire. I was actually surprised, I was able to get it out with just a minute or two of fiddling around.
