Byron

iTrader: (1)

I've not experienced weeping from the threads, just a bad pinion seal, which was a pretty quick fix.

Make sure you use the Ford additive with the oil if you change the fluid.

-Byron

Tramminc

Ordered a aeroforce CN101 gauge to replace the clock, hope I like it.

HtownV04

iTrader: (1)

bought one of these. anyone else use one?

TransAmWS.6

This wasn't exactly today- more like a few days ago, but I had to adjust my coilovers. The car looked great with the tires being perfectly flush with the fenders but it just wasn't practical with our old and harsh roads out here in Maryland (rubbing on everything). It was also way too firm for a daily and I'm sure my headers were going to get crushed at some point. We adjusted it so it's maybe lowered an inch all around, it sits pretty level at this point. After the adjustment it doesn't seem that the handling is as precise, but it felt so much better so I washed it and got a buddy to take a couple of rollers.

Byron

iTrader: (1)

Is that a jack pad of some sort? Never seen one.

-Byron

barrok69

I bought a pair of similar poly ones off of amazon a few years back. They don't lock into the PLP holes in the body like the ones you posted, but the pucks have a small ridge cut out of them so that they support both sides of the jacking flange points. I use them on all my cars.

HtownV04

iTrader: (1)

yea. It's made for corvettes, but the V1 has the same hole. I'll post some pics when it arrives tomorrow.

TST_brah

Drained my steering juice today, unbeknownst to me until I fired it up after work. Got to drive home with no power steering, thankfully only about 5 miles. I knew I should have replaced all that a month back when the engine was out.

Byron

iTrader: (1)

Had that happen back in May, killed the pressure line.

Got the LS7 maf setup dialed in a little better, she pulls nicely now and drives well, but I still have some adjustment left to optimize it. Runs much better with the fresh air vent installed vs using a breather filter. This is due to no more un-metered air entering the system.

-Byron

84FSP

iTrader: (3)

Received the 102tbody, 340 pump and flex fuel adapter to run corn. Already have the 60# injectors in. Just ordering the stainless works 3" exhaust for it.

The last two times on the dyno the car was knocking and pulling too much timing. With the bigger cam, coupled with my 12:1 static compression I have increased my DCR above what pump gas is happy with. In addition the tuner and I think the 2.5" Corsa setup when couple with the 1 7/8 longtubes has now become a restricting factor.

We were only able to get 21deg of timing advance vs an expected 29deg+ of advance prior to corn. I'm told that corn allows another 5-6 deg of advance. Given that each deg of advance is usually 5hp I am excited at the prospect to gain 13deg.of timing and remove the restriction at the intake (90 to 102) and exhaust.

BaMaDuDe87

No, I use basically a hockey puck with a "line" cut out of it and it goes on each side of the pinch welds.

isis

iTrader: (1)

I put a new Optima Red Top in since I forgot to plug the battery tender in after I had the nerve to drive it in January when my Raptor was in the shop.

84FSP

iTrader: (3)

Snagged a stainless works 3” dual setup so my dual 2.5” Corsa will be up for sale soon out of cincinnati,

Byron

iTrader: (1)

Stainless works is my favorite sounding exhaust made for a V1. It's loud, and that's the only thing that kept me from buying one. Unfortunately we have noise level limits on this side of the pond.

Nice score!

-Byron

isis

iTrader: (1)

I put my team dynamics wheels back on and drug it out and took it to the carwash and then went for a dryoff hoon. Haven’t had it out since January. What a silly fun little car.

barrok69

Today I discovered that I have a "Valet mode" that was installed by Lingenfelter on my car when they did the maggie install ages ago. It activates the boost bypass so the maggie never makes boost into the engine with the turn of a key. Pretty slick. I've been scratching my head with what the little module was that was tucked up under my cowl and had vacuum lines and power running to it until I found a traceable part number on the vacuum reservoir. Mystery solved. Now that I know what it is, I'll go ahead of re-attached the vacuum wire soup that I had previously disconnected and replaced.

~400hp NA crank HP in Valet mode
~560hp Boosted crank HP with valet mode off

I'll have to play around with it and see how noticeable the two modes are with some street driving.

Byron

iTrader: (1)

Slave cylinder **** the bed again.

Ordered a new one, and the billet bearing support to hopefully prevent it from failing again. I am doing the master at the same time just as a precaution.

On the positive side, slowly dialing in the tune and she runs like a raped ape. Since changing the log to lambda, it made everything easier for me to track. Also picked up a new AEM wideband setup to replace my failing DB2.

Hopefully 2 weeks or so until everything lands here and I can get it installed.

-Byron

Tramminc

I adjusted my coil-overs by adding 250 lbs (half on the driver seat and the other half on the driver floor) then leveled the car. Helped with weight displacement while I'm in the car.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Changed the fluid in the 8.8" rear. I didn't look back in my records to see when I had last done it, but it seemed like the diff was more inclined to whine when it starts to heat up, so I figured it was due. Used the Ford 75W-140 synthetic, which I had bought probably 18 months (or more) ago and had just never got around to putting in the diff. Even such a simple job couldn't be completed without some stupid issue - the suction hose fell off the fluid pump into the first bottle, so I had to fish that out with a bit of safety wire. I was actually surprised, I was able to get it out with just a minute or two of fiddling around.

cam3439

I diagnosed a failed MAF sensor that was only affecting the driver’s side readings of being too lean, so it was dumping an excessive amount of fuel to the entire bank 1 side.

I then detailed the outside of the car to remove some paint transfers and scuffs. A simple hand wash / clay bar action / paint sealer / wax did the job.