What did you do to your V today?
10-20-2017, 09:14 PM
#1862
That does suck
there are 3 black ctss aat our local lkq and doors fully loaded are like 150 each. I had something like that happen to me so I r&red a front door...very easy! They don't even have alignment provisions and was honestly a 45 minute job...
id find some black doors, hang them and see how well the paint matches before heading to a body...maybe the old girl can pay you for a change
there are 3 black ctss aat our local lkq and doors fully loaded are like 150 each. I had something like that happen to me so I r&red a front door...very easy! They don't even have alignment provisions and was honestly a 45 minute job...
id find some black doors, hang them and see how well the paint matches before heading to a body...maybe the old girl can pay you for a change
10-20-2017, 09:25 PM
#1863
The cop had me pull around to them into a townhome complex across the street. I pulled up behind her car along the curb. When I got out she said a bit confused, "Did I hit you?"
If I was at fault I'd probably look into that, but I'm definitely letting the professionals handle this one. She had some bootleg insurance company though, so I'm a little concerned about that.
Just checked KBB--estimated value is $5400 trade in to $6200 private sale. This will probably be close.
UPDATE: Just discovered she was uninsured and has been for 4-5 months. How the officer didn't discover that when he entered her plates and checked her registration, I don't know. Looks like I owe a $250 deductible now.
That does suck
there are 3 black ctss aat our local lkq and doors fully loaded are like 150 each. I had something like that happen to me so I r&red a front door...very easy! They don't even have alignment provisions and was honestly a 45 minute job...
id find some black doors, hang them and see how well the paint matches before heading to a body...maybe the old girl can pay you for a change
there are 3 black ctss aat our local lkq and doors fully loaded are like 150 each. I had something like that happen to me so I r&red a front door...very easy! They don't even have alignment provisions and was honestly a 45 minute job...
id find some black doors, hang them and see how well the paint matches before heading to a body...maybe the old girl can pay you for a change
Just checked KBB--estimated value is $5400 trade in to $6200 private sale. This will probably be close.
UPDATE: Just discovered she was uninsured and has been for 4-5 months. How the officer didn't discover that when he entered her plates and checked her registration, I don't know. Looks like I owe a $250 deductible now.
Last edited by BudRacing; 10-23-2017 at 10:22 AM.
10-23-2017, 07:46 AM
#1867
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Had a busy weekend. Like had to take an Ibuprofen 800 kind of weekend lol.
The rundown:
CS Diff bushing and block
New Drivers axle seal
Replaced diff fluid
Replaced trans fluid,
Oil change
CS bronze linkage bushing
CS poly support rod bushings
CS transmission mount
LS7 clutch and flywheel w/ ARP fasteners
Tick speed bleeder and LS7 slave to V1 line
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal and rear cover gasket
Kooks headers
Corsa exhaust
TR6 spark plugs
ATI balancer (stock one had the wobble)
CS motor mounts
All I have left is the Hurst shifter and the Kooks high flow cats to Corsa exhaust and she'll be done mechanically. Hard to believe that the stock DMF was toast after only 35k miles. Had a good wobble and was really loose as well as a Teflon type ring/seal in the middle of the flywheel had broken.
The rundown:
CS Diff bushing and block
New Drivers axle seal
Replaced diff fluid
Replaced trans fluid,
Oil change
CS bronze linkage bushing
CS poly support rod bushings
CS transmission mount
LS7 clutch and flywheel w/ ARP fasteners
Tick speed bleeder and LS7 slave to V1 line
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal and rear cover gasket
Kooks headers
Corsa exhaust
TR6 spark plugs
ATI balancer (stock one had the wobble)
CS motor mounts
All I have left is the Hurst shifter and the Kooks high flow cats to Corsa exhaust and she'll be done mechanically. Hard to believe that the stock DMF was toast after only 35k miles. Had a good wobble and was really loose as well as a Teflon type ring/seal in the middle of the flywheel had broken.
10-24-2017, 07:27 AM
#1869
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Location: Where the Navy tells me to go
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Had a busy weekend. Like had to take an Ibuprofen 800 kind of weekend lol.
The rundown:
CS Diff bushing and block
New Drivers axle seal
Replaced diff fluid
Replaced trans fluid,
Oil change
CS bronze linkage bushing
CS poly support rod bushings
CS transmission mount
LS7 clutch and flywheel w/ ARP fasteners
Tick speed bleeder and LS7 slave to V1 line
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal and rear cover gasket
Kooks headers
Corsa exhaust
TR6 spark plugs
ATI balancer (stock one had the wobble)
CS motor mounts
The rundown:
CS Diff bushing and block
New Drivers axle seal
Replaced diff fluid
Replaced trans fluid,
Oil change
CS bronze linkage bushing
CS poly support rod bushings
CS transmission mount
LS7 clutch and flywheel w/ ARP fasteners
Tick speed bleeder and LS7 slave to V1 line
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal and rear cover gasket
Kooks headers
Corsa exhaust
TR6 spark plugs
ATI balancer (stock one had the wobble)
CS motor mounts
10-24-2017, 09:23 AM
#1870
I dropped it off at the body shop again. This time the rear fender lip is peeling. They replaced the quarter panel a few years ago and it’s rusting a little bit under the paint. They’re gonna use rust converter and repaint it for me. Should be back by end of the week.
10-24-2017, 08:52 PM
#1871
TECH Apprentice
Speaking of quarter panel, whatever happened to the guy that bought a silver v off a member on here last yr or so, with the F'd up rear quarter and bumper, did he ever fix it
10-25-2017, 10:42 PM
#1872
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Where the Navy tells me to go
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Fixed the no-start issue. I now feel really stupid, but I give at least some of the blame to GM. 
Long story short, there's a fuse for the clutch position switch, but the label on the lid of the underhood fuse box says "HTR VLV / CLTCH", so it's pretty easy to gloss right over that one (or at least it's pretty for me to do so!).
Meanwhile, I'm trying to find the (apparently mythical?) "Run/Crank Relay" that the FSM refers to in both the "No Start - Solenoid Does Not Click" procedure and in the "Starting System Circuit Description". No, not the Starter Relay - it mentions that one separately in multiple locations. Well, either I'm blind, because I can't find a "Run/Crank Relay" anywhere, or this is yet another example of the poor attention to detail that I've run into in the FSM on a number of occasions.
What I actually did this evening:
- Swapped in my spare ECM to see if that would fix the no-start issue. No change in indications.
- Swapped the original ECM back in. Decided I would pop-start the car tomorrow so I could drive it to Lindsay and let Robert take a look at it. (He and I have been exchanging emails about the issue, but without a Tech2 there's some troubleshooting I couldn't do.)
- Went ahead and pop-started the car so I could take it for a quick drive. Haven't driven it since I installed the new OEM clutch MC, so I wanted to test that out a bit. (Feels fantastic!) Noticed that I was getting the same herky-jerky coasting in gear at lower RPM that I was getting when the CPS was bypassed. Hmmm... Sure enough, cruise control wouldn't work, either - yup, something still ain't right with the CPS.
- So, came back home and went to look at the FSM to see what the 4 terminals in the CPS harness are supposed to read - presumably, 2 are 12V and 2 are ground. Before I dug that far, I looked at the main fuse box diagram in the FSM, where it spells out what all the fuses and relays are for. And whaddya ******' know, there's a fuse for the CPS!! Of course, it's easy to miss, because in the fuse box on the car the label says "HTR VLV / CLTCH". That ****** was blown - probably from my experiments with bypassing the CPS by way of a paperclip stuck into the harness connector.
Installed a new 10A fuse and it's good to go.
Note that that 10A fuse is not mentioned anywhere in the "No Start - Solenoid Does Not Click" troubleshooting guide nor in the "Starting System Circuit Description".
Long story short, there's a fuse for the clutch position switch, but the label on the lid of the underhood fuse box says "HTR VLV / CLTCH", so it's pretty easy to gloss right over that one (or at least it's pretty for me to do so!).Meanwhile, I'm trying to find the (apparently mythical?) "Run/Crank Relay" that the FSM refers to in both the "No Start - Solenoid Does Not Click" procedure and in the "Starting System Circuit Description". No, not the Starter Relay - it mentions that one separately in multiple locations. Well, either I'm blind, because I can't find a "Run/Crank Relay" anywhere, or this is yet another example of the poor attention to detail that I've run into in the FSM on a number of occasions.
What I actually did this evening:
- Swapped in my spare ECM to see if that would fix the no-start issue. No change in indications.
- Swapped the original ECM back in. Decided I would pop-start the car tomorrow so I could drive it to Lindsay and let Robert take a look at it. (He and I have been exchanging emails about the issue, but without a Tech2 there's some troubleshooting I couldn't do.)
- Went ahead and pop-started the car so I could take it for a quick drive. Haven't driven it since I installed the new OEM clutch MC, so I wanted to test that out a bit. (Feels fantastic!) Noticed that I was getting the same herky-jerky coasting in gear at lower RPM that I was getting when the CPS was bypassed. Hmmm... Sure enough, cruise control wouldn't work, either - yup, something still ain't right with the CPS.
- So, came back home and went to look at the FSM to see what the 4 terminals in the CPS harness are supposed to read - presumably, 2 are 12V and 2 are ground. Before I dug that far, I looked at the main fuse box diagram in the FSM, where it spells out what all the fuses and relays are for. And whaddya ******' know, there's a fuse for the CPS!! Of course, it's easy to miss, because in the fuse box on the car the label says "HTR VLV / CLTCH". That ****** was blown - probably from my experiments with bypassing the CPS by way of a paperclip stuck into the harness connector.
Installed a new 10A fuse and it's good to go.Note that that 10A fuse is not mentioned anywhere in the "No Start - Solenoid Does Not Click" troubleshooting guide nor in the "Starting System Circuit Description".
10-26-2017, 08:01 AM
#1873
I was just reading all of that (FSM) trying to figure out my starting issue. Mine was the CPS and that was easily fixed with a backup in the car to prevent that from keeping me from starting the car again. I have noticed more errors in FSM as they get newer. At first I thought maybe things are lost in translation (coming from Japanese FSM reading) but this is an American car with all sorts of parts from around the world in it and the attention to detail seems to drop with the spread of parts from exterior distributors. Thanks for posting another detailed entry.
I wish I had something to add, but I don't. I add gas, check oil, add oil when needed, mash pedal to redline, bang through gears, repeat. My buddy I bought my V from replaced his lust for LS with an LS7 2007 Z06. LS7, ftw.
I wish I had something to add, but I don't. I add gas, check oil, add oil when needed, mash pedal to redline, bang through gears, repeat. My buddy I bought my V from replaced his lust for LS with an LS7 2007 Z06. LS7, ftw.
10-26-2017, 06:41 PM
#1875
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- Reinstalled the starter blanket, now wrapped around a shiny new starter that I almost certainly didn't really need. I guess I have a working spare to stick on the shelf.
- Reinstalled the lower trim panel in the driver foot well, officially marking the end of this "dead clutch MC / bad CPS? / no-start" evolution.
Next up is to get the car tech inspected, and to get some new R-comps mounted for 3 days at VIR next weekend to close out the track event season. I picked up some Maxxis RC1s earlier this year when they were offering a big discount on their website; I haven't run them, but my buddy that I do events with said they're a good HPDE tire, so we'll see.
- Reinstalled the lower trim panel in the driver foot well, officially marking the end of this "dead clutch MC / bad CPS? / no-start" evolution.
Next up is to get the car tech inspected, and to get some new R-comps mounted for 3 days at VIR next weekend to close out the track event season. I picked up some Maxxis RC1s earlier this year when they were offering a big discount on their website; I haven't run them, but my buddy that I do events with said they're a good HPDE tire, so we'll see.
Last edited by AAIIIC; 10-27-2017 at 07:23 AM.
10-31-2017, 08:35 PM
#1880
Had a 2.0T ATS AWD for a day. Decent car, easy to drive like an A for sure. Little cozy for me and the lag from the turbo and the billion speed auto trans made it seem confused as hell under 10mph but a hoot to roll with once you were moving a bit.
Taking the dog to the groomer with my suby one last time and then the V is my only car as of friday. Just in time since I decided two bikes and one car is better with a 4 mile per day commute. Picked up a 2017 Honda Africa Twin with DCT to help get outside more.