Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Engine rebuild progress w/ pics

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Old 11-18-2013, 01:07 AM
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Default Engine rebuild progress w/ pics

I've managed to get a lot done over the past few weeks and should (hopefully) be breaking her in on Wednesday. Just figured I'd post a few pics of the progress.

2005 CTS-V
-Block: LS6 5.7 cleaned, decked, honed (.007 to 3.905)
-Pistons: Forged Mahle -4cc
-Rods: Forged Scat H-beam 6.125
-Crank: Stock, polished
-Heads: Stock 243, new springs, bowl ported, milled .0012 to 62cc (bringing compression back to around stock 10.5:1)
-Cam: GT2-3
-Headers: Pacesetter wrapped in DEI Titanium
-FI: Maggie MP 112 w/ 1:1 rears, 2.8 front, 8"o/d crank pulley(hopefully will be upgrading soon to the 122)
-AEM Meth kit (should keep my IATs under control through the winter and will be adding the super chiller in the spring)
-Misc: King bearings, Comp Cams trunion upgrade, Lunati pushrods, LS2 timing chain, LS7 lifters, ARP bolts throughout, Fel-Pro gaskets throughout

Machine work done by Terry @ Centex Motorsports Temple, TX
Build done by yours truly @ Xtreme Performance Temple, TX

I'll update after break-in, and again after the dyno tune.
Attached Thumbnails Engine rebuild progress w/ pics-20131016_191811.jpg   Engine rebuild progress w/ pics-20131030_191519-copy.jpg   Engine rebuild progress w/ pics-20131112_153613.jpg   Engine rebuild progress w/ pics-20131114_132200.jpg   Engine rebuild progress w/ pics-20131115_201458.jpg  

Engine rebuild progress w/ pics-20131111_145112.jpg  

Last edited by jkel1124; 11-18-2013 at 01:23 AM.
Old 11-18-2013, 12:18 PM
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Nice build and cool pics man!
I'm looking to get a rebuild here within a few months also.. how much for a motor that's got a spun rod bearing if I want everything replaced internally? I got a quote for around mid $3k w/ a 3yr & 50k mile warranty from another company and want to compare prices..

btw, I will be be doing a complete write-up on my FB fan page for the shop I go with..

Last edited by adanieljohnson1; 11-18-2013 at 12:26 PM.
Old 11-18-2013, 02:56 PM
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Those pics look all too familiar. I like how you dropped the whole front subframe though. That's a technique I haven't seen used on the V yet.
Old 11-18-2013, 03:40 PM
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Budracing thats what the mamual calls for.
Old 11-18-2013, 05:38 PM
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Looks like your belt Is rubbing on that bolt under the drivers side idler pulley
Old 11-18-2013, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by adanieljohnson1
Nice build and cool pics man!
I'm looking to get a rebuild here within a few months also.. how much for a motor that's got a spun rod bearing if I want everything replaced internally? I got a quote for around mid $3k w/ a 3yr & 50k mile warranty from another company and want to compare prices..

btw, I will be be doing a complete write-up on my FB fan page for the shop I go with..
My brother owns the shop and just lets me use his equipment for my projects. They kinda guide me along and help with any problems or questions. I'm not sure what they would charge for your rebuild but they're listed if you want to call and get a quote. They do good work.

Originally Posted by LS BRAVADA
Looks like your belt Is rubbing on that bolt under the drivers side idler pulley
Must be an optical illusion...no belt rubbing.
Old 11-18-2013, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by serik21
Budracing thats what the mamual calls for.
You got me... I did a google search for mamual and still haven't figured out what you're talkin about...
Old 11-18-2013, 10:46 PM
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Looks awesome!
Old 11-24-2013, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jkel1124
-AEM Meth kit (should keep my IATs under control through the winter and will be adding the super chiller in the spring
Looking forward to hearing from you we only have a few V1 Chillers out there one is a custom Eforce

Thanks Dave
Old 11-24-2013, 07:48 PM
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You may already know this but in the 4th pic you can see that the cam retaining plate is on backwards.
Old 11-26-2013, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by R07.2
You may already know this but in the 4th pic you can see that the cam retaining plate is on backwards.
Haha good eye. It was only hand tight to keep the cam in place as I was installing the pistons.
Old 12-06-2013, 12:59 AM
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So I broke her in last week the hard way (easy way) with a few 2nd-4th gear pulls from 1/2 - 3/4 throttle. I haven't had it re-tuned yet but Wow she seems to have woken up. It's been a while since I've been able to drive it so it's kinda hard to compare. I've already run into my first problem though after only a week...limp mode from codes P0120, P0220, and P1516. Pretty sure the throttle body is toast, so already time for another upgrade...90mm LS2 tb. Does anyone know if the 06-07 LS2 maggie snout is what I will need? I called Magnuson and they want almost $400 shipped for just the snout. I called Hendrix and they might have one for $200 if they can find it. So I guess I'll be doing this mod before the dyno-tune.

Last edited by jkel1124; 12-06-2013 at 02:15 AM.
Old 12-06-2013, 01:50 PM
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What I meant was the car was designed for the engine and tranny to be dropped with fthe subframe.
Old 12-06-2013, 10:03 PM
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Looks great, put a 102mm tbody on there. You may need an ls3 maf as well.

Were you able to hone it yourself or did it need to go to a machine shop?

Let's see the dyno numbers!
Old 12-06-2013, 11:41 PM
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Stoked for you, dude. Can't wait to tear into mine come spring time!
Old 12-06-2013, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 2007V
Looks great, put a 102mm tbody on there. You may need an ls3 maf as well.

Were you able to hone it yourself or did it need to go to a machine shop?

Let's see the dyno numbers!
I'm still trying to figure out how I'm gonna get the Maggie to accommodate a larger TB. I think the 90mm TB should suffice. Has anyone just ported their stock snout to a larger diameter 90mm-102mm?

The block work was done at a machine shop. They have to use a torque plate in place of the heads when boring it to get precise and accurate results.

I can't wait to get her on the dyno! I'll keep ya'll updated.
Old 12-08-2013, 08:33 PM
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To upgrade to the 90mm TB you will need the LS2 snout and wiring harness adapter. You cant just open up the LS6 snout. The 90mm TB has four bolts while the LS6 only has three.
Old 12-09-2013, 12:05 AM
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There is no power to be had with a larger throttle body on a Maggie...many have been down this road a while back and were really disappointed. You might see 3-5 whp from tuning, not nearly enough to justify the expense.
Old 12-09-2013, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kjr6306
To upgrade to the 90mm TB you will need the LS2 snout and wiring harness adapter. You cant just open up the LS6 snout. The 90mm TB has four bolts while the LS6 only has three.
I am aware of that but was thinking if I can't find a snout then I could just use one of those adapter plates and just port the plate and snout. Just an idea. I've read people getting anywhere from 3-20 rwhp from this with the Maggie. If I have to replace the TB anyway then it seems to be worth it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-Intake-to-LS2-throttle-body-adapter-/221315395230?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33876cee9e&vxp=mtr
Old 12-10-2013, 12:59 AM
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Wow...I missed the part where Magnuson is raping people for $400 for the snout. Holy crap...that was $125 two years ago. So, $400 for the adapter, $400+ for the LS2 Throttle body for 5 whp. It has not been mentioned that you cannot use the LS3/7 throttle body as the blade actuates in reverse of the LS2/6 throttle bodies causing instant reduced power mode.

Nobody has ever made 20 HP with the LS2 upgrade on a Maggie. Every one that I have seen never had anything modified in the MAF tables meaning they did not flow any more air than the LS6 throttle body...which means the dynos were fudged to see a 20 whp gain.

Last edited by DMM; 12-10-2013 at 01:01 AM. Reason: Stupid iPhone


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