Makin progress
#261
Done!
I even modified the harness to work properly with the headlights, waitin on led bulb so my low beams kinda match...
Ordered a new set of headlights so i get the black on black and since its my second attempt the job will be cleaner and unnoticeable
I even modified the harness to work properly with the headlights, waitin on led bulb so my low beams kinda match...
Ordered a new set of headlights so i get the black on black and since its my second attempt the job will be cleaner and unnoticeable
#262
Found the brake fluid reservoir hose, 7mm blue hose for a vw bus... It will have to do. I am about two weeks out on that component, plus have to wait four days before i win the auction for the headlights then three weeks out for shippin...
I will start the engine next week after i install the dual wb gauge.
Nothing else is holdin me back
Then its a search to find some interior components to make her look pretty in the trunk again...
I will start the engine next week after i install the dual wb gauge.
Nothing else is holdin me back
Then its a search to find some interior components to make her look pretty in the trunk again...
#263
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
FYI, I found out the hard way too that the coilover was too wide to run really wide wheels, so I narrowed the control and I am running the new springs in the traditional location.
What lower control arms are those?
Also, since this is a racecar, ever thought about running a cantilever setup in the rear for the coilovers?
What lower control arms are those?
Also, since this is a racecar, ever thought about running a cantilever setup in the rear for the coilovers?
#264
Those are the camaro lower control arms, reduced by 1" and reinforced them for extra load...
I am running penske coilovers, which are some of the best for racing. i feel just pulling the bottoms of the shocks inwards should help...I have new brackets made where they are pulling the shocks inwards by 30mm. 10mm wasnt enough so i tripled it...
I am running penske coilovers, which are some of the best for racing. i feel just pulling the bottoms of the shocks inwards should help...I have new brackets made where they are pulling the shocks inwards by 30mm. 10mm wasnt enough so i tripled it...
Last edited by Naf; 10-12-2015 at 05:28 AM.
#268
Originally Posted by somethingclever
I will be curious to see if that bracket holds up over a load.
I will be removin the trunk carpet and replace with either bedliner or sound deadenin mats...
That will give me full access to the shocks
#269
TECH Enthusiast
#272
TECH Enthusiast
#274
Originally Posted by 54inches
Do you have any photos of those lower control arms, before and after? Actually,
I can find before, just want to see after....
I can find before, just want to see after....
I reduced the side connected to the knuckle, no biggie just reduced it by one inch and removed the swaybar ears from the oem lower arms and welded them on the new arms...
#275
Originally Posted by barrok69
Just looking out for you man!
Would hate to see you have it all done and then you tear off your new fenders and suspension first time on the track because a small bracket failed.
Would hate to see you have it all done and then you tear off your new fenders and suspension first time on the track because a small bracket failed.
I will remove it so i may have a pc that has supports for the tab
#277
TECH Enthusiast
It's supposed to have a degree of freedom around that point. The top of the shock is essentially "fixed" and so is the control arm to the body. When the control arm goes up or down the shock bottom will rotate slightly. I believe there is a spherical balljoint inside the knuckle at the shock location that allows the rotation. If there was no rotation the whole system would bind and put side load on the shock body and also put alot of pressure on the top mount of the shock.
#278
I have a hydraulic perch and spring bearings so the spring has the freedom to move about. The shock base is pretty much locked in place with the bottom mount and the top is also fixed with the top. The best way to see if you have any issues is to remove the spring from the coilover and manually move the suspension up and down to see if you have any issues. Other than that there is no way of seein if you may bend your shock.
Bottom mount is all bent up just need to drill holes. Wednesday is off so Thursday hopefully i will be done and pix will be uploaded
Bottom mount is all bent up just need to drill holes. Wednesday is off so Thursday hopefully i will be done and pix will be uploaded
#279
On The Tree
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Nothing.
It's supposed to have a degree of freedom around that point. The top of the shock is essentially "fixed" and so is the control arm to the body. When the control arm goes up or down the shock bottom will rotate slightly. I believe there is a spherical balljoint inside the knuckle at the shock location that allows the rotation. If there was no rotation the whole system would bind and put side load on the shock body and also put alot of pressure on the top mount of the shock.
It's supposed to have a degree of freedom around that point. The top of the shock is essentially "fixed" and so is the control arm to the body. When the control arm goes up or down the shock bottom will rotate slightly. I believe there is a spherical balljoint inside the knuckle at the shock location that allows the rotation. If there was no rotation the whole system would bind and put side load on the shock body and also put alot of pressure on the top mount of the shock.
I don't agree that the top of the shock is fixed - it has compliant rubber at the top and will move around at the knuckle connection easily by hand when installing new shocks. I don't think there is a spherical joint inside the knuckle at the lower shock mount for rotation purposes during shock travel, but that the rubber itself allows adequate rotation. It probably doesn't need much rotation anyway...few degrees...the difference between arc's isn't much. (wheel vs shock location)
Anyway - none of that was my point...what I am saying is before the shock was held in place by a male/female clevis design on the bottom. with the picture as shown, if that tire hits a pothole, what keeps the whole new bracket from rotating about the shock bolt? ...aka - the control arm goes up, the coilover says "I'm not moving" and the bracket rotates it's position.
The top of the coilover doesn't have to move much to get a large movement at the bottom and the bracket arc length is small, so not much movement is needed to rotate.
I think the bracket needs to have two bolt holes at the knuckle connection to resist rotation.
#280
TECH Enthusiast
I don't agree that the top of the shock is fixed - it has compliant rubber at the top and will move around at the knuckle connection easily by hand when installing new shocks. I don't think there is a spherical joint inside the knuckle at the lower shock mount for rotation purposes during shock travel, but that the rubber itself allows adequate rotation. It probably doesn't need much rotation anyway...few degrees...the difference between arc's isn't much. (wheel vs shock location)
Last edited by barrok69; 10-13-2015 at 02:44 PM. Reason: because physics