Makin progress
12-02-2015, 03:29 AM
#321
Tranny is finally lowered, but had to separate it from the bell housing after we disconnected it from the engine...
Tried to fit the bellhousing back onto the engine, but its too tight. So one of the headers has to come off...WOOHOO, we are breaking for lunch, and in the mean time i updated the OS with the VATS and Fan updates, this way i can disable the VATS completely, and activate the fans at a slightly lower temp.
After lunch we hope to have measurements and find out why my gear selection isnt working properly.
Tried to fit the bellhousing back onto the engine, but its too tight. So one of the headers has to come off...WOOHOO, we are breaking for lunch, and in the mean time i updated the OS with the VATS and Fan updates, this way i can disable the VATS completely, and activate the fans at a slightly lower temp.
After lunch we hope to have measurements and find out why my gear selection isnt working properly.
12-02-2015, 07:23 AM
#322
WE FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!
My Mechanic changed my clutch setup from a LS7 to LS9 and reused the 1/4" spacer i made. So with the LS9 the slave was actually touching the second clutch plate not allowing the vehicle to be in neutral.
All in all i have 1/8ish of space between the slave and the second clutch plate.
Installed a heat shield so my IAT doent climb too high, will use DEI gold foil on the engine side and paint the inside black to reduce the look.
The hood wouldnt close so we adjusted the shock reservoirs so it may close properly
Gonna swap the lenses of the headlights so i have a new looking car, and then drive around the neighborhood for a little bit to work the kinks out. Then take her onto the highway and soon to the track...
Have to come up with a new solution for my oil changes. I will have about 2ltrs of oil in the tank left after opening all the drains. May install another drain on the bottom of the tank to get rid of all the oil/metal particles...
Lets see what happens, the tank is easily removed...
My Mechanic changed my clutch setup from a LS7 to LS9 and reused the 1/4" spacer i made. So with the LS9 the slave was actually touching the second clutch plate not allowing the vehicle to be in neutral.
All in all i have 1/8ish of space between the slave and the second clutch plate.
Installed a heat shield so my IAT doent climb too high, will use DEI gold foil on the engine side and paint the inside black to reduce the look.
The hood wouldnt close so we adjusted the shock reservoirs so it may close properly
Gonna swap the lenses of the headlights so i have a new looking car, and then drive around the neighborhood for a little bit to work the kinks out. Then take her onto the highway and soon to the track...
Have to come up with a new solution for my oil changes. I will have about 2ltrs of oil in the tank left after opening all the drains. May install another drain on the bottom of the tank to get rid of all the oil/metal particles...
Lets see what happens, the tank is easily removed...
12-02-2015, 11:59 PM
#324
This is what i know as of now, the clearance between the end of the center tube of the slave and the hole of the last clutch disc is 4.29mm.
Is that enough clearance between the two or do i need more, i feel i need more, for when i press on the clutch and the clutch is disengaged, 4.29mm cant be enough room for the two clutch disc to be set free...
4.29mm
Is that enough clearance between the two or do i need more, i feel i need more, for when i press on the clutch and the clutch is disengaged, 4.29mm cant be enough room for the two clutch disc to be set free...
4.29mm
12-03-2015, 02:33 AM
#325
I sent off emails, and am waiting for replies, so in the mean time, i tried and properly pressed the fingers in disengagin the clutch, i got 3mm of movement from 14mm of slave travel. Any further, and i would risk the fingers touchin the clutch disc...
My options are
1. shave off 1-2mm from the engine side of the flywheel
2. add a 3mm spacer to the bellhousing, but then trim the coupler so the DS stays in its same location...
3. Shave the slave from the rear 1.5mm...
Why is this so hard, others have done it before me with no issues...
My options are
1. shave off 1-2mm from the engine side of the flywheel
2. add a 3mm spacer to the bellhousing, but then trim the coupler so the DS stays in its same location...
3. Shave the slave from the rear 1.5mm...
Why is this so hard, others have done it before me with no issues...
Last edited by Naf; 12-03-2015 at 04:27 AM.
12-03-2015, 04:52 AM
#326
I took my old damaged slave to the machine shop and shaved 1.5mm off the back of it. Then to make sure i have enough side wall i made a slice. The pressure line, the oval hole has 2mm sidewall. The return line has 1mm.
This 1.5 shave off the clutch will give me 5.80mm distance between the clutch plate and slave center tube.
I also ordered the monster billet bearing support. But that has me sittin still for two weeks.
I could just install my ls7 and when i get all this sorted out i can drop the tranny once again and swap the clutch out.
This 1.5 shave off the clutch will give me 5.80mm distance between the clutch plate and slave center tube.
I also ordered the monster billet bearing support. But that has me sittin still for two weeks.
I could just install my ls7 and when i get all this sorted out i can drop the tranny once again and swap the clutch out.
12-03-2015, 09:31 AM
#327
I am on break for the weekend, tomorro gonna go ridin with my friends and get my mind off this issue
Will install my ls7 clutch and slave in the mean time till i get proper answers about my ls9 slave vs the oem ctsv slave.
If no difference is found i will shave the back side of the ls9 slave by 0.85mm and be done with it...
Will install my ls7 clutch and slave in the mean time till i get proper answers about my ls9 slave vs the oem ctsv slave.
If no difference is found i will shave the back side of the ls9 slave by 0.85mm and be done with it...
12-03-2015, 09:37 PM
#328
Been told two things,
1 katech recommends the oem slave
2 the oem slave is the same as a ls9 slave.
But jason @ katech says to use the oem and not the ls9
Sunday i am goin to measure the ls9 slave and see if its same height of 84mm...
1 katech recommends the oem slave
2 the oem slave is the same as a ls9 slave.
But jason @ katech says to use the oem and not the ls9
Sunday i am goin to measure the ls9 slave and see if its same height of 84mm...
12-06-2015, 01:26 AM
#331
Looks like i am stuck for a while.
I sent an email off to Luke for the new OEM slave, as well as Fuzzy askin if the lS9 slave worked for him. Gonna have to wait a day and a half till i start to get any replies...
To install the LS7 clutch will prove to be wasteful for i still need to fix my brake booster situation. I bought a used one off ebay for a 13 with the master, so i kill two birds with one stone, i get a larger res and a new booster. From all the pix i searched online it looks like it will work, and given its a SC engine it may demand less vacuum to operate. Which i may benefit from since my idle is 70-80kpa vs 40-50kpa.
lets hope i get to drive the car sometime this yr before its all over...
My to do list
Upgrade Brake booster / master
Install OEM slave
Install LS9 Clutch
Alignment
Tune
I sent an email off to Luke for the new OEM slave, as well as Fuzzy askin if the lS9 slave worked for him. Gonna have to wait a day and a half till i start to get any replies...
To install the LS7 clutch will prove to be wasteful for i still need to fix my brake booster situation. I bought a used one off ebay for a 13 with the master, so i kill two birds with one stone, i get a larger res and a new booster. From all the pix i searched online it looks like it will work, and given its a SC engine it may demand less vacuum to operate. Which i may benefit from since my idle is 70-80kpa vs 40-50kpa.
lets hope i get to drive the car sometime this yr before its all over...
My to do list
Upgrade Brake booster / master
Install OEM slave
Install LS9 Clutch
Alignment
Tune
12-06-2015, 03:09 AM
#332
I dug up an old post from the other site and found the following info
LS7 Slave is 4.25" tall (verified)
LS6 slave is 3.313" Tall
LS9 slave is 3.45" tall (measured it)
So given the LS9 slave is 0.137" taller, could be causing my clearance issue...
Add 3.48mm to my now 4.29mm and you get roughly 7.77mm of gap, which is a lot nicer than my 5mm which i was shootin for with the LS9 slave...
The question is do i get GM via Luke, Dorman for $210, or Centric for $152 from Amazon?
I trust Luke blindly for i was screwed for two month by Amazon for a fuel pump for my 4500 series truck. Price was great, but it was just the wrong part over and over again. Luke took the time and checked out the drawings and got the right part to me FAST...
LS7 Slave is 4.25" tall (verified)
LS6 slave is 3.313" Tall
LS9 slave is 3.45" tall (measured it)
So given the LS9 slave is 0.137" taller, could be causing my clearance issue...
Add 3.48mm to my now 4.29mm and you get roughly 7.77mm of gap, which is a lot nicer than my 5mm which i was shootin for with the LS9 slave...
The question is do i get GM via Luke, Dorman for $210, or Centric for $152 from Amazon?
I trust Luke blindly for i was screwed for two month by Amazon for a fuel pump for my 4500 series truck. Price was great, but it was just the wrong part over and over again. Luke took the time and checked out the drawings and got the right part to me FAST...
12-08-2015, 01:51 AM
#333
Ordered the new slave as well as new arp bolts for the install.
I tried my new dual wbo2 and found i may have a problem. With the engine off and ignition on i am gettin 460-507mv instead of a steady 450mv.
Also my 5v reference is 2v instead of 2.5v. Will look at my grounds and see whats going wrong, as well as wait for an answer from innovate. I even slowed the response time to 1/3 sec and still it bounces with the engine off.
I tried my new dual wbo2 and found i may have a problem. With the engine off and ignition on i am gettin 460-507mv instead of a steady 450mv.
Also my 5v reference is 2v instead of 2.5v. Will look at my grounds and see whats going wrong, as well as wait for an answer from innovate. I even slowed the response time to 1/3 sec and still it bounces with the engine off.
12-08-2015, 11:59 AM
#334
TECH Enthusiast
Ordered the new slave as well as new arp bolts for the install.
I tried my new dual wbo2 and found i may have a problem. With the engine off and ignition on i am gettin 460-507mv instead of a steady 450mv.
Also my 5v reference is 2v instead of 2.5v. Will look at my grounds and see whats going wrong, as well as wait for an answer from innovate. I even slowed the response time to 1/3 sec and still it bounces with the engine off.
I tried my new dual wbo2 and found i may have a problem. With the engine off and ignition on i am gettin 460-507mv instead of a steady 450mv.
Also my 5v reference is 2v instead of 2.5v. Will look at my grounds and see whats going wrong, as well as wait for an answer from innovate. I even slowed the response time to 1/3 sec and still it bounces with the engine off.
Your high performance engine is running rich when it's off
12-08-2015, 05:23 PM
#336
Ordered the new slave as well as new arp bolts for the install.
I tried my new dual wbo2 and found i may have a problem. With the engine off and ignition on i am gettin 460-507mv instead of a steady 450mv.
Also my 5v reference is 2v instead of 2.5v. Will look at my grounds and see whats going wrong, as well as wait for an answer from innovate. I even slowed the response time to 1/3 sec and still it bounces with the engine off.
I tried my new dual wbo2 and found i may have a problem. With the engine off and ignition on i am gettin 460-507mv instead of a steady 450mv.
Also my 5v reference is 2v instead of 2.5v. Will look at my grounds and see whats going wrong, as well as wait for an answer from innovate. I even slowed the response time to 1/3 sec and still it bounces with the engine off.
12-09-2015, 01:11 AM
#337
I had ground issues on their LC1 which I thought was corrected on the LC2. Mine would walk around as the sensor warmed up. I ended up soldering two separate 10G cables to their two grounds and running them to two separate bolts on the engine. I used crimped then soldered ring terminals at that end. Fixed my issues. I thought they addressed that in the redesign with just one ground? Or do you have an LM-something? That may still be the old circuitry
Since the tranny is out i will just copy your setup and route them through the transmission tunnel into the car.
Have two dedicated 10awg wires just for the WBo2. I will then test it and see if its still fluctuating.
Thanx
12-09-2015, 09:13 AM
#338
My revshift parts arrived today.
The shifter bushings are installed, but now the diff bushings will be a challenge. Need to come with a solution to remove and install the new ones.
The one on the diff is easy, but the two on the subframe are the ones in question.
The shifter bushings are installed, but now the diff bushings will be a challenge. Need to come with a solution to remove and install the new ones.
The one on the diff is easy, but the two on the subframe are the ones in question.
12-09-2015, 11:15 AM
#339
I started by trying to press out the stock rubber bushings using a 12x1/2" threaded rod and various parts from a ball joint removal kit. No dice--ran 3' breaker bars on either end of my tool and nothing gave.
GM must have used one hell of a hydraulic press to get those bushings in there in the first place. That, or the outer shell of the bushing rusted through and through. Ultimately, I had to cut the bushing out, slowly and carefully.
12-09-2015, 11:48 AM
#340
Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
Are you referring to the rear differential bushings? Those are a pain.
I started by trying to press out the stock rubber bushings using a 12x1/2" threaded rod and various parts from a ball joint removal kit. No dice--ran 3' breaker bars on either end of my tool and nothing gave.
GM must have used one hell of a hydraulic press to get those bushings in there in the first place. That, or the outer shell of the bushing rusted through and through. Ultimately, I had to cut the bushing out, slowly and carefully.
I started by trying to press out the stock rubber bushings using a 12x1/2" threaded rod and various parts from a ball joint removal kit. No dice--ran 3' breaker bars on either end of my tool and nothing gave.
GM must have used one hell of a hydraulic press to get those bushings in there in the first place. That, or the outer shell of the bushing rusted through and through. Ultimately, I had to cut the bushing out, slowly and carefully.
I am goin to just drop diff slightly for i have an oil cooler attached and may use a little heat to help pop those suckers out.