barrok69

The appropriate method of bushing installation uses a 25-50Ton hydraulic press, which is how they do it from the factory for the cradle bushings and the other diff bushings. They are put in the cradle with the cradle bare, then it gets built up and shipped as a module from the supplier to the assembly plant.

If you don't want to remove your cradle you can probably fab up have a tool like the CS tool for cradle bushings removal/installation. It still might involve removing the differential though. Otherwise you can just take your time and cut them out like most of us did back in the day on our cradle bushings. You'll have to drop the cradle to get the clearance to get in there regardless, unless you cut out your spare tire tub.

I left the rears stock for what it's worth. Almost all of the moment force is generated on the front bushing and even more so since there is just one small bushing compared to two larger ones in the rear. I have the 8.8 in there now and the CS kit turns the cradle into a 4 point diff that distributes the load across the front better.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Naf, have you also replaced the heat shield sandwiched between the trans and the underbody? Way back, Philistine and I replaced using different materials according to our personal preferences regarding heat and acoustic dampening.

I recently repainted the entire underbody of my car using several layers of glossy black POR-15 (thanks again to SevillianSTS for making the original thread and doing the research). In order to paint everything, I had to remove basically everything underneath my car including the heat/acoustic layers I installed earlier. Based on the lessons learned from doing that installation, I came up with a 2-layer, 12-panel pattern that makes it a lot easier to avoid wrinkles. If you're interested, let me know.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I removed the oem shield and replaced it with dei gold foil.

I know they dont offer any sound protection but it helped keep the heat way down.

Once i get everything back in i am gonna give it a quick test. If it proves to be to loud, i will give you a ring...

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Pulled all the stops,

Had Luke fedex me the slave, which arrived today. Very disappointing results. The ls6 oem slave is 0.45mm longer than the ls9 slave. Given i only have 4.29mm gap with the ls9 slave and 3.84mm with the oem. Ppl are runnin the ls6 slave with no issues so i may just go with the flow, keepin the ls9 slave as a backup. I am waitin on the monster billet throw seat so assembly is paused till that arrives.
Ordered new arp bolts from amazon and had them use the fastest shipping method to me. Hopefully thursday/sunday i can get started again, well after Star Wars...

Today my wife just killed my tahoe's transmission. Seems a hose from the rad cooler popped off. What a mess, Called a buddy to help tow my car to the Volvo dealer so that she can pick up her car and then she can go about her day, then had my car can come to my workshop to be fixed. Lets just hope its a hose and nothing more.

gtistile

If you need more air gap You can dissassemble the shortest slave you have and very carefully shave down the back side of the black plastic ring that stops the bearing from further compressing. I've done it twice and never had an issue. If I remember correctly you can get upwards of just over 1/8" (3.5mm or so) more compression of the slave by dooing this

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Why are you even running an OEM slave? Figure out the length you need and buy a fixed or adjustable piston-length McLeod slave with one of their hardened tool steel throw-out bearings. They'll run you $450-600, depending on options, but it sounds like you've already paid that in parts and shipping.

jclayc

iTrader: (8)

what's the story on your TO bearing, Fuzzy? How's it customized? Asking b/c I'm looking for an upgraded clutch to go on my 416ci ls3

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I dont have an issue with air gap between the throw out bearing and clutch fingers, i have an issue with the slave tube and clutch plate gap. But lookin at the throwout bearing gap, i should be fine...


Yup, 300 for the slave plus 79.99 for the billet throwout bearing and lets not forget shipping.

It will work, i just have to see which one gives me a better air gap with the clutch fingers

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Sorry guys my phone flipped the conversations.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

All my parts arrived and I tested the removal of the slave lock so i may upgrade the silly plastic piece for the throwout bearing with a billet one from monster

I hope to start my installation on the Sunday but it all depends if I can get that flywheel up to 200°F for proper installation. I have my little oven I created for my headlights as well as a digital heat gun so i should be set

I will measure the throwout bearing clearance with the ls6 OEM slave if I am shorter than 3 mm I will use the LS9 slave if the clearance is fine then I'll use it I will keep the LS9 as a spare for later

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Preheated the flywheel to 200F, using my little headlight hot box. I elevated the flywheel by one inch, then put the thermometer under the flywheel. Waited till the temp hit 200 than waited another 20mins at that temp.

Torqued it on in stages

then torqued on the pressure plate also in two stages

After lunch i will install a shorter WBo2 cable on the drivers side, install the bellhousing and then check all my measurements.

I feel i will go with the LS9 slave, but the measurements will say which route to go with...

Have all this energy for i saw Star Wars Ep Vii last night. They finally that made a good one to rival the original. But i am confused about Han Solo's son's name. I thought it was Jacen, and not Ben for Ben was Lukes only son's name...

Lets not forget the few mistakes the script writers missed as well.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I went with the LS9 slave.

I had a measurement of 2.65mm gap with the ls6 slave, when i need 3.15mm. The LS9 is 0.5mm shorter than the LS6 slave, giving me the needed 3.15mm gap.

I upgraded the throw bearing mount to a billet so i should be covered there.

I will raise the tranny tomorro and finish my installation.

I still have to upgrade my ground wires for my WBo2, which i will do tomorro.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

All back together, i left my mechanic to bleed the clutch and see if i have free play in the tranny when you depress the clutch.

The wiring is done, but not tested,

Have to fly to lebanon with an unknown return date.

tlorenzen

Naf

I just finished up doing the green revshift rear cradle bushings and dif bushings this weekend. I dropped the whole rear cradle to do it. (unhooked shocks, 2 brake line fittings, the ebrake, and wheel speed sensors, then removed the four cradle bolts with a jack under the dif and out she came)....Definitely worth it if you're doing all of the bushings..

The cradle bushings came out easy with a 4lb sledge, a socket to fit the ID sleevs (2 different sizes from front to back), something to hold onto the sockets with, and alot of heat on the outside of the bushings...The rear differential bushings I burned out in oder to get the insides out....then I took a sawsall and very carefully made a single cut on the bottom of each...I couldn't quite get through the lip without cutting into the cradle so I took a punch and hammer and got the sleeve to spin...then I went to the front side and tapped the edge of the sleeve with the punch and they came right out.

Hope this helps...

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Love it thanx...

But i am gonna have to see if i have to change the master for the brakes. If i have to i will end up copying your technique in addition to droppin the diff cooler with the diff...

I will see if i can create a hydraulic puller for the bushings this way i dont have to drop the whole cradle...

tlorenzen

No problem. I figured I'd type it out while it was still fresh in my mind. Best of luck on the master cylinder stuff...I don't have much experience with that stuff.

Also, if you do end up removing the cradle (added like 3-4 hours total and a few beers but wasn't hard) remove the brake line up by the driver door...Get a pair of vice grips and pull on the cable then grab onto it right where it goes into the car and let it go to keep the slack on the rest of the cable then unhook...I used a 13mm (I think) wrench to get the cable lock through the hole...worked like a charm. Oh, and the rear end feels much better minus the differential noise and newly found gear clunk lol....

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I found a hydraulic bushing tool, Rehobot EBH6 should be big enough to yank out the old bushings, and allow me to install the Poly ones

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I recalibrated my wbo2 sensors, and tomorro i hope to check all my readouts and confirm proper operations.

I reprogrammed my efi v2 to give me all the needed readouts so i dont need my laptop.

I Will also be removin my drysump tank to install another drain plug on it so i may fully drain all the oil from the system

54inches

iTrader: (4)

If you are going to do Cradle bushings, ask RevShift for the 75d; their colors mean nothing btw.

They made me a set for mine(only set I know of) and they would be great for your car and it's intended use....

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I already have specter's plastic inserts for the cradle. Night and day difference...but man what a pain to install.

I just want to install the diff bushings. I have the one in the front of the diff installed, but its pointless for the two holding it to the carrier are still inferior rubber.

May get a bmw bushin tool kit and try and wrench them out...