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Who runs a boost-a-pump on a V1?

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Old 01-19-2015, 02:41 PM
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Default Who runs a boost-a-pump on a V1?

Based on my quick searching, psychobillycadillac, and punishmentcycle? I could be wrong, I feel like that is what I remember. Not a lot of info on it really (or at least for a V1). If there is please pardon me for my lack of proper searching (hypocrite moment).

Anyway, Building a 402 @ 10.5:1 with 42LBS injectors and was wondering if a boost-a-pump would get me by, until I Pull the full system for a cell in the trunk and likely -10an lines.

Anyway, if you run a boost-a-pump on a V1 how much WHP are you putting down?

Also, since the stock connector is so notorious for melting stock...... was, or were there any problems running 17.5 volts to it?

Lastly, how did you install it? Tips? and pictures?

Thanks
Old 01-19-2015, 09:25 PM
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I would think the factory pump would get you by without the need for a boost a pump. Assuming its an n/a engine and nothing else for now. Most guys with nitrous are getting to 500rwhp, my self included, on the factory fuel pump.
Old 01-19-2015, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by itsslow98
I would think the factory pump would get you by without the need for a boost a pump. Assuming its an n/a engine and nothing else for now. Most guys with nitrous are getting to 500rwhp, my self included, on the factory fuel pump.
That is kind of good to hear!

But how much of that is hidden because of wet nitrous systems?

I plan on spinning it to 6,800 so lets hope you're right! I guess worst case I would lose some dyno time if i do in deed need to install one.
Old 01-19-2015, 10:37 PM
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I'll be running a kb40amp bap. But it will be a while before I'm at the dyno and tunning. I did run the hotwire kit from racetronics and I'll be running a 2psi hobb switch so that the bap will only turn on when I'm in boost. Will see how it works also I'll be running ford racing 60lb injectors. Shooting for 530whp
Old 01-19-2015, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
That is kind of good to hear!

But how much of that is hidden because of wet nitrous systems?

I plan on spinning it to 6,800 so lets hope you're right! I guess worst case I would lose some dyno time if i do in deed need to install one.
I was on 100 shot wet kit so the fuel pump was solely providing the fuel.
Old 01-20-2015, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by serik21
I'll be running a kb40amp bap. But it will be a while before I'm at the dyno and tunning. I did run the hotwire kit from racetronics and I'll be running a 2psi hobb switch so that the bap will only turn on when I'm in boost. Will see how it works also I'll be running ford racing 60lb injectors. Shooting for 530whp
WHen is the time line for this? or planned finish date?
Old 01-20-2015, 09:33 AM
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Plan is to be on the dyno late Feb early March.
Old 01-20-2015, 10:01 AM
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I run a KB single BAP.
Old 01-20-2015, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Sssnake
I run a KB single BAP.
No issues? had your fuel pump connector previously melted?

And LSA heads with an e-force how much is making it to the wheels?
Old 01-20-2015, 10:12 AM
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I run the DW300 through the stock bulkhead connector currently (and checked frequently). I am in the process of switching out to a PWM fuel system. Part of the swap is to the Racetronix connector listed in Philistine's dual DW 300 sticky.

No melting but I am getting an EVAP error. Like I said fuel system work to be done.

HP - That is the subject of some debate. Long story... Conservatively, north of 600hp.
Old 01-20-2015, 11:28 AM
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I didn't need a BAP with 525 rwHp N/A. I had 52 pound injectors and also ID1000's.
Old 01-20-2015, 03:23 PM
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IMO id be a bit nervous boosting a stock pump, especially after seeing all of these melted pumps and recall notices. Just my 2 cents tho.
Old 01-20-2015, 08:52 PM
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I'm running a Magnavolt on my maggie setup. it's making 476whp and I haven't had any issues with it or any melty wires.
Old 01-20-2015, 10:32 PM
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I've had a KB 40a single BAP for 3 years. Had an internal short once and had to replace it. No issues with the connector. It may even help the connector by adding voltage and dropping current.
Old 01-21-2015, 08:57 AM
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IMO id be a bit nervous boosting a stock pump, especially after seeing all of these melted pumps and recall notices. Just my 2 cents tho.
I've never seen any pump damage. The damage was always to the bulkhead connector, bucket, and/or tank.

It may even help the connector by adding voltage and dropping current.
Why would there be an appreciable current drop? I=V/R (dc modeling assumption: I is current, V voltage and R resistance). the R doesn't change and the voltage goes up. Therefore the current would go up.

While I've not had issues using the stock bulkhead connector either, I don't want to find out that I have an issue by leak gas on hot exhaust pipes. You know what they say about an ounce of prevention...

Otherwise I agree. A BAP is not the evil thing that most make it out to be.
Old 01-21-2015, 11:49 AM
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I think it mostly depends on the fuel you want to run. If you're staying with normal petroleum pump gas or race gas, cool. If you want to go E85 or some other alcohol blend, stock system is less than ideal. You need 30% more fuel flow to achieve a given power level. Doesn't seem like the stock system could handle that all that effectively.
Old 01-25-2015, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sssnake



Why would there be an appreciable current drop? I=V/R (dc modeling assumption: I is current, V voltage and R resistance). the R doesn't change and the voltage goes up. Therefore the current would go up.

P=IV, the fuel demands haven't changed so if you assume P is constant then I drops as the V goes up. Just like why electrical power lines are high voltage so they can run smaller wires and minimize the resistance (losses and heat). Your losses through the wiring and connector are P=IxIxR. So with the lower current your power loss is lower and it heats the wire and bulkhead connector less.
Old 01-26-2015, 10:53 AM
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I hear you BUT the pump will pump more fuel when the BAP kicks in. That is the whole purpose of the BAP. If the amount of fluid pumped goes up then the work or power increased. Which translates into more current. This assumes you are not on a PWM system (like ours). If you are on a PWM fuel system you would be correct.
Originally Posted by 2007V
P=IV, the fuel demands haven't changed so if you assume P is constant then I drops as the V goes up. Just like why electrical power lines are high voltage so they can run smaller wires and minimize the resistance (losses and heat). Your losses through the wiring and connector are P=IxIxR. So with the lower current your power loss is lower and it heats the wire and bulkhead connector less.
Old 07-12-2015, 01:51 PM
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Default Magna volt booster pump issues

05 GTO ls2 tvs 1900 Maggie 2.8 pulley 525rwhp, kooks lt w/high flow cats, aem cai, B&M shifter, koni shocks, white line rear bushings and motor mount ,12 flat @110,I can't drive a stick lol. Things have been acting up and I think it all points to the bap, melted coil harness repaired, still missing on #3 plus ping under power, waiting for answer from from above, don't wanna blow this motor!
Old 07-12-2015, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mcohenv2k
05 GTO ls2 tvs 1900 Maggie 2.8 pulley 525rwhp, kooks lt w/high flow cats, aem cai, B&M shifter, koni shocks, white line rear bushings and motor mount ,12 flat @110,I can't drive a stick lol. Things have been acting up and I think it all points to the bap, melted coil harness repaired, still missing on #3 plus ping under power, waiting for answer from from above, don't wanna blow this motor!
05 cts-v 60lb injectors at 10psi procharger and kb bap injector duty cycle was 96% put down 568 at the wheels. Thats pretty much the limit with stock pump and to have enough fuel line pressure at redline.



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