hefftone

I'm putting in a clutch as I'm pretty sure my slave cylinder is shot....and I'll be damned if the transmission is gonna get pulled and not get some kinda upgrades.

I started by pricing out the GM LS7 clutch which looked like it would be about $595 including the slave (plus shipping). Then I almost went for an Stage2 monster which with slave would have been about ($975) But then I check rock auto, grip force, and eBay, and after much scouring & homework, bought the Luk setup from amazon (quick shipping and easy returns)


LuK fw191 ($75 shipped amazon). The flywheel comes with nothing else (no bolts).
The flywheel is 27.8 lbs

LuK RepSet clutch 04216 or 04-216 ($286 shipped,amazon). The clutch kit contains most everything needed

• Pressure plate & sprung hub disc (assembly is 31.6 lbs)
• complete slave cylinder/TOB with hydraulic line (branded FTE)
  (the hydraulic slave line is for the corvette. It can be used but is long, requiring it to be reshaped. You cannot swap the Stock line from your V1 slave, it will be too short. Tick makes a slave line for the Ls7 slave in the V1 trans....it requires clearance of the trans case)
• pilot bearing,
• alignment tool,
• some lube/grease

So that right there is about $360 for a complete clutch setup shipped. I was very happy/relieved to to see the new slave included with the clutch kit. No flywheel or PP bolts...and I hope the pilot bearing is the same (yes, worked fine with my LS2)

I also bought.

• Tick remote bleeder ($50) a must have
• Tick line for c6 slave in a V1 ($50) not essential, YMMV
• Tick bronze isolator cup ($21)[edit: do not get this cup, it makes the shifting stiffy and notchy when the trans heats up. I will remove next time trans comes out]
  
• Brian's (07CTSV) bronze bushings for the shift coupler. ($50) recommended
• ARP flywheel and PP bolts (C6) optional

Have already installed the PMC. ($365)recommended

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

The flywheel and pressure plate bolts are reusable and the pilot bushing is the same for all our engines.

hefftone

Excellent. Thanks brian! I was worried about the whole bastard transmission possibly having adiffent input shaft/pilot bearing.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

I would replace the bolts with GM or ARP variants. Replace the starter while you are doing the tranny. Get a stargter for an 05 1500HD with a 6.0

ryridesmotox

I replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts pretty much every time they come apart, unless its ARP fasteners. It is worth the $20 for all 12 bolts to replace the OE stuff with new OE fasteners... At least in my opinion.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Do you also replace all the driveshaft bolts as well? They're all subjected to the same forces and none of them are torque-to-yield.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Haven't heard of any driveshaft bolt failures so I wouldn't worry about it.

ryridesmotox

I am this time, yes. The Allen bolts on the driveshaft to diff yoke are kinda jacked up, and the bolts on the coupler have been off 3 times now. I'm also going to replace the motor mount bolts and the bell housing bolts. Metal does fatigue and after 100k miles and being on and off a few times now, I'm just going to replace them.

There seems to be differing opinions on whether the flywheel bolts are TTY or not. Either way, if you've taken things apart a few times, its advisable to replace. Most replace ARP fasteners after being torqued 3 times. Essentially, I look at it like this, if its $1 per flywheel bolt and like $2 per pp bolt, why not. Arguably these are some of the most stressed bolts in the vehicle. They are subject to quite a bit of heat from friction and the motor, as well as shear force.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

The specification for flywheel bolts is 74 ft-lbs. If they were TTY, it would be like the crank bolt, which is 37 ft-lbs plus 140 degrees. If/when I have to drop the trans again, I might look at replacing those bolts, but I'm not too concerned. Time will tell.

ryridesmotox

There are torque + degree bolts that aren't tty as well... The main cap fasteners are not tty and they are torque + degree... I'd still replace those if I have to remove them again for a crankshaft change. Metal isn't super elastic. When you stretch the bolts during torquing, they don't come back 100%. So after a few times, you'll want to replace things. I went with ARP head studs on my build, but reusing OEM for the main caps. I know that I'm likely going to be doing more head work, and or new lifters at some point because of my aggressive cam. I want to be able to reuse my head bolts/studs a few times.

Also the flywheel and pp bolts are torqued in stages. 1/3, 2/3, and full.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, when my motor goes in for a rebuild, I've pretty much decided on ARP head bolts since they're reusable *and* way cheaper than the studs.

Sorry for going off-topic, OP. You now have a couple points of view regarding bolt replacement. Choose as you will

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

99% sure the LS6 and the LS2 have different pilot bearings.

hefftone

F'ing V1 flywheel bolts too long for C6 flywheel! Damn you DMF! There goes the weekend!

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Huh??? I definitely re-used my flywheel bolts....not sure what the problem is.

hefftone

OK I take back. I prematurely freaked out while hand threading a bolt into the crank and it was sticking way out when it felt like it bottomed out. But the V1 flywheel is about 1/4" thicker than the C6, and the flywheel bolt lengths differ by about the same amount. So the V1 bolts will thread quite a bit deeper into the crank, than the C6 bolts would.

kra86

bump for another good thread with part numbers.