90G60

iTrader: (1)

So I'm 99% sure both front lower ball joints are done. The passenger side starting making noise early this year, and the drivers side is starting to now as well.

Surely someone has done these on their own. I called a local shop that gives local enthusiasts a discount. Figured I could drop it off before work, and pick it up after. They quoted me nearly $1k (with the discounted rate with parts supplied by me)!

I know they are pressed, but can a ball joint on a GM really be that big of a job?

Only related thread I found was https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...sion-help.html

05CTSV

iTrader: (16)

Look on Rockauto.com. You can get the ball joints for around $45 each. Hell you can even buy the entire lower control arm for around $225. They press out like any other ball joint. You can use a ball joint press, leaving the control arm on the car. You can also remove the control arm and press it out with a standard press. If they were close to $1k, I would bet they were quoting replacing the entire control arm + labor.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I just want to give you a pat on the back for the search!

jclayc

iTrader: (8)

I pressed mine out and back in with this: http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...les-60827.html

90G60

iTrader: (1)

Happen to remember how long the job took you?

barrok69

I rented the o'reilly's/autozone balljoint press kit and i did the ones in my fiero. It took about 40mins per balljoint and that was taking my time. Different car, but same process.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

They're not too hard at all. I did one a while back and the other side recently. I would say a realistic hour per side.

Rent the ball joint tool from one of the part chains that offer it. Source your part from wherever you need. I used ACDelco from Rock Auto.

Stick your new part in the freezer.

~Remove wheel
~Raise front corner so that there is ~10-12" of space below the control arm and support jacking points with jack stands.
~Move jack to the underside of Lower Control Arm (LCA) and raise to compress the arm by about an inch.
~Disconnect tie rod from steering knuckle and swing to the side.
~Remove nut from ball joint.
~Give the steering knuckle (the part that surrounds the ball joint stud) 5 to 10 good whacks with a hammer to loosen/break free any bonds with the stud.
Lower jack supporting the LCA while pulling up on the steering knuckle/brake assembly.
This SHOULD lift the steering knuckle off the stud. If not, spray some penetrating oil around stud and repeat hammering process to knock it loose.
~Once you have the LCA separated from the steering knuckle, set up the rented BJ press as instructions guide you.
~The round receiver piece goes beneath the LCA, one of the circular metal pieces goes on top of the stud.
~Tighten C-clamp with breaker bar until you have trouble tightening any more.
~Give the top of the stud a downward smack with a hammer (pref 3lb hammer) and it should knock it out or at least loosen it enough to finish the job with the press easily.

~Once old BJ is removed, clean any debris from the inner race of the LCA.
~Take new BJ from the freezer and insert into the hole as straight as possible.
~The receiver piece should now be on top of the LCA.
~Tighten the C-clamp to press new BJ into place.
~Once pressed in, screw in the grease fitting and pump in a little grease if you have it. They should come pre-lubed, but adding more is a safe measure.
~Wrangle the steering knuckle back over the BJ stud and fasten supplied castle nut.
~I don't recall the torque spec, but it's relatively tight. I believe it's around 80-100 ft/lbs.
~Insert cotter pin and bend appropriately so that it does not slip out.
~Re-attach outer tie rod to steering knuckle
~Remount wheel
~Lower Car
~High five your dog

90G60

iTrader: (1)

DOG?!




Appreciate the walk through. Going to order the parts tonight.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

i.e.

Lbar

I've beat my brains out with a hammer trying to get lowers out of a few cars. I have a secret weapon now, air chisel. They come out so fast. Hit the opening with a benzene torch for 10-15 seconds, grab the new one from the freezer, goes right in. I have not done them on the V yet.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Smacking the stud with a hammer while it's under pressure from the press tool seems to do the trick easily.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

I've done ball joints and all bushings on front lower control arms. Joints were easy. Tool above from harbor should help. Removing the bushings was done with a sawzall. LOL

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Did you go with poly on the bushings? If so, any squeaks yet?

Lbar

What mileage did you do them at? Feel tighter afterwards?

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

CS Black bushings on front. Solid. No squeaks. Felt a bit better in handling. Tighter. 148k miles.

Heavybody

Love this! Awesome dog