TST_brah

I heard something bad going on in the LF on Wednesday afternoon. Parked it and shook the wheel, was almost certain the spring seat loosened up again. So last night I put the front up and gave it a good check, shook everything I could but came up empty handed. Loaded up the LF and gave it a shake, still to find nothing. So while I was there I slapped on the new pads I had up front. Put it down, sucked out all the brake fluid I could from the res, and filled it up with fresh Dot3. Was going to take it out to check for noises, fired it up and pulled the p-brake handle, into reverse, then it sounded like it was laboring trying to back out. Feels like the rear is seized up or the p-brake is still engaged. Pedal seems fine, maybe a little light, and pops right up with a pull of the handle. Dinked around a bit on lunch today, and it's still the same. Haven't put the rear up yet, that'll happen tonight or over the weekend.

Anyone have this before? Search didn't seem to come up with anything good, so plz don't tell me to do a search.

TST_brah

Put the rear end up after work today, found out the parking brake is fine. But the rear pads we're pretty much frozen in position. Couldn't compress the pistons back at all. Cracked the inner bleeder on both calipers and got a bit of fluid out, enough to free up the rotors and allow them to turn. Buttoned it back up but the pedal is still rock hard, drove it to the end of the street (about 100ft) and back, when I disengage the clutch, it comes to a stop quickly. Rage. Tomorrow I'll crack the bleeders while trying to compress the pistons and throw the new pads on. IDK what's going on, never even touched the rears. Will post results and continue conversation with myself.

diponyou

All this happened after you sacked the old fluid out of the res and added new stuff right?

I wonder if some air got trapped in there and is causing it? I'd bleed the crap out of it and see what happens.
Next would be checking out the calipers and making sure they aren't needing a rebuild. Seems weird that they both went bad at the same time though.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Air would cause the opposite of this. Air in any hydraulic system causes a squishy pedal and less force.

diponyou

Yeah typically this is the case. But I have personally dealt with air in the system causing rear pads to drag. The pedal wasn't necessarily "hard" or "squishy" but it did cause issues dragging.

TST_brah

Just put the car up, cracked the bleeders in the rear as I compressed the pistons back. Replace the pads, everything seemed fine. Had the wife come out and be my pedal pumper. All 8 ports bled, not a single bubble of air. Was able to turn the rear wheels by hand before I put the car down.

As soon as I started backing out of the driveway, I knew it was still fkd up. Drove 20ft to the end of the street, pushed the clutch in, and the car stopped on its own. Drove down to the next street and back, felt like I was towing a trailer. Pedal absolutely sucks, hardly moves at all. Drove it probably 2/10 mile, and the rears were HOT when I got it back in the garage like I just beat it around a track for a half hour. Wot the acutal FK m8s?

There's something going on in the rear fluid system. Could something in the ABS module be messes up? No dummy lights, chimes, or anything. Feel like the trunk monkey got out and installed check valves in the lines to the rear while I was messing with the front the other day. Can guarantee that if I crack the rear inners, I'll get fluid out of them.

Ugh. Eff this pos. I'm going to the gym.

isis

iTrader: (1)

I like your writing style but don't have much to suggest other than bad calipers.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

But the probability of BOTH calipers at the same time? Something isn't making sense...

TST_brah

I'm from the misc. And I'm here to be obnoxious. U aware?

Also, I'd never take diagnostic advice from a terrorist group. But thanks anyways.

This. Not to mention I didn't even touch the rear of the car and they were just fine prior to jacking up the front.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I wonder if this is a master cyl issue? I don't know enough to really speculate on that though.

TST_brah

I did discover that if I disconnect the batter and allow all the power to drain down, the pressure to the rear calipers is relieved and I can roll the car. As soon as I connect the batter and power up the car, it's back to locked rears again.

Pulling fuses this weekend. Definitely seems like an issue with the BPMV either being messed up or the valves are off center and it needs a relearn.