MN_V

iTrader: (5)

Absolutely. Since everybody with H&R's runs the stock dampeners successfully (more or less), I figured I'd be fine as well. Just got done with a drive around town and it was great.

rand49er

Gentlemen: If the spring rate is a function of (directly proportional to) the number of active coils, how is it that you can reduce the number of coils and produce a spring with an unchanged spring rate? Note in the formula, below, "na" is the number of active coils. I believe the OP removed a portion of them. That most definitely changes the spring rate "k".

Formula to Calculate Rate:
k = Gd^4 ÷ (8D^3 na)
G = E ÷ 2 ( 1 + V)
D = D outer - d

Formula symbols:
d = Wire Diameter
D outer = Outer Diameter
D = Mean Diameter
E = Young's Modulus of Material
G = Shear Modulus of Material
L free = Free Length
k = Spring Rate (Spring Constant)
na = Active Coils
v = Poison's Ratio of Material

Source: http://www.thespringstore.com/spring...alculator.html

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Are the factory springs linear or progressive rates?

barrok69

They are Linear springs from the factory.


Randy,
You need to actually follow the math that you posted.

When you reduce the number of coils look at the equation.

k = Gd^4 ÷ (8D^3 na)

The "na" number is reduced.... meaning the lower the numerical value of "na", the higher the value of k becomes. Pretty straight forward math.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

Not our springs, but here's a good example of progressive vs. linear spring design. Ours are definitely linear.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

my kit keeps the shock from hydraulic assist for over 2.5 of 'lowering' capability

lots of people lower to different heights, i went with what would 'get them out of the way' without a compromise in sight for the 99%

if you drop the shock back toward the stock spot, to the point that it begins playing an active role in suspension, you are on your way toward defeating the purpose of the relocation, and will see raising and lowering during use (like we don't want).

the hr springs are just really soft and people get aggressive with the trimming because well hey its 2016 everybody in a rush i send out spring shim kits on the regular because people get a little too happy with the cutoff wheel. it actually ends up just helping the 'too soft' hr and all is right with the world

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

I'm running stock springs, and keeping your kit where it is for now, I've become real happy with the look. If I did reduce the spacer size, it would still be way above the stock spot so no lifting would take place.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

For clarification, you cut the bottom of the rear springs and the top of the front springs, correct?

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

exactly.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

you cut the 'open end' the end that will still look and be the same shape when you are done cutting, as before to best fit the rubber mount.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Did you reuse the rear shock boots? MM instructions say to leave them out, but I'm not crazy about that for a winter driven set-up. I'm assuming they need to be removed for more aggressive drops and my (yours) mild drop should be fine with them in place.

EDIT: Nevermind, that didn't work, the metal cap on the top of the dust boot prevents the shock rod from installing far enough into the cabin. Solution, pry the metal cap off the top of the dust boot. The shock rod now extends freely through the end of the bump stop and dust boot and can be properly attached inside the car. I used JB Weld to glue to dust boot to the lower MM spacer mounting plate which will prevent the boot from sliding down.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

you dont need the boots IMO, but if you want to keep them some guys rivet them to my lower plate. its a good idea but unrelated to amount of drop

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

I'm guessing you live much further south than I. I'll take all the shrouding I can get. Rivets would have been a good idea, but that's a tool I lack at the moment.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

Bought a pair of these from amazon and put the slightly trimmed bump stops inside of them. Trimmed the boots to fit without any binding. Once suspension is loaded it seals up against the top. No way I'm daily driving my car in MN all year without protection from road spray onto shock shaft and seal as well as into cabin.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

Nice!!

Dmaleck

iTrader: (6)

I also want to do this, thanks for the awesome review!! I had 2 questions...

1- Do you have to have a spring compressor for the fronts? Does it just make it easier or?

2-Can I use a sawzall to cut the springs? or do I have to use a cutoff wheel?

Thanks!

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

No, not a must. Front stock assembly can be safely disassembled without compressors. Once cut, you will need the assistance of a friend to compress the top hat so you can thread on the nut. Or, use a set of compressors.

Yes you can, but you'll need to secure the spring before you cut because the blade will likely shake it quite a bit. The cutoff wheel is definitely easier to handle.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

Get a grinder and cut off wheel. You'll use it again. I used a spring compressor and did it solo, even after cutting I needed to compress the fronts a bit to get the nut going. Sounds like a buddy to help does the job too.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I set my MM spacers up in a way that allowed me to keep the shock covers/boots on.

I relocated one of the spacer sleeves below the top plate to reduce the spacing to be closer to an inch (and I put a rubber spacer beneath the spring to reduce tire tucking and fender rub from my flushed 275's).
Doing this brought the shoulder on the piston rod right up to the top of fender and the boot is resting on that and snugged to the top of the fender with the top nut holding the two together. No rattles. It took a couple extra washers to get everything right.

hefftone

I was contemplating cutting stockers, but then some H&Rs popped up locally for $100.
Im supposed to pick them up today.....now I'm not sure.