Saulen-04ctsv

I recently bought my first V by recently I mean i've had the car for a month. I got a killer deal on it as it has a few problems one being the clutch is going out.. I plan on parking it this winter to do some upgrades the clutch being number 1 obviously so I can drive it.

The car has 112k miles and trying to figure out what all I should do while im in there doing the clutch and also are these the correct parts? I seen this part list on another post and wanted to make sure.

LUK 04216 - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....694868&jsn=244
LUK LFW191 - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....695618&jsn=242
TPSBL5G - http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...p-04-07-cts-v/
TPUSLCTS - http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...2004-07-cts-v/


I've never done a clutch swap but have a friend that has to help me. Am I missing anything and also like I said i would like to do any maintenance to prevent problems later with these miles. Anything I should change while I have this beast tore apart.

I've heard the oil pumps are junk on these cars and the motor mounts and rear end bushings ?

Any info greatly appreciated!

L672LS6V

Welcome to the V1 life!!!

The clutch is actually pretty easy on the install IMHO...some will tell you to measure the A and B to ensure that you either need a shim or not on the Slave...I personally didn't take the measurement and my LS7 Clutch was a complete kit including LS7 slave and the set up works great! **edit** (the Tick remote speed bleeder should also accompany this while its apart) Motor mounts and rear diff bushings do in fact suck, look at Creative Steel for replacements...also you should add Pissnuoff's Hurst shifter is the way to go on a short throw (you won't be disappointed) and Philistines Clutch Master Cylinder is another great upgrade for you. Good luck and have fun!

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The oil pump is fine. The chain tends to stretch and snap on sudden power removal and reapplication, particularly on LS6-engined cars. If you're going to cam it, get a ported pump, Cloyes True Billet timing set, and Katech C5-R chain. You're probably due for new lifters, valve seals, and a Comp Cams trunnion upgrade too.

The things that actually suck on this car:

- Motor mounts, shifter bushings, differential bushings, and rear subframe bushings
- Cold air intake tube and IAT sensor placement
- Crank pulley wobble and huge dual mass flywheel
- Remote shifter linkage, CAGS, and glass differential
- Excessive ride height, soft progressive springs, and weak sway bars
- Lack of modern electronics/navigation/phone integration, Bose speakers with paper cones, weak amplifier
- Seat bolsters are basically non-existent (get a CG Lock to tide you over until you can replace the front seats)
- 6x115 lug wheel bearings and skinny rear wheels
- No design margin on stock .750" clutch MC and hidden flow orifice in stock plumbing, skinny gas pedal that inhibits heel-toeing
- Weak fuel pump and insufficiently-rated electrical bulkhead connector (tends to melt), poor fuel pressure regulation (inhibits tuning)
- Standard GM power steering pump cavitates above 4000 engine RPM and resultant high fluid temp melts rack seals
- Limited rear camber adjustment unless you extend the subframe slots
- Transmission heat shield is poor even when new and tends to decay into pieces, raising cabin temperature
- Engine wiring harness is bulky and in the way of everything you want to do
- Creaky / rattling door panels (can be fixed with about 5 lbs of adhesive backed felt, CLD, MLV, and closed cell foam)

crazy tarzan

See https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ll-way-go.html

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Don't let Fuzzy scare you...tend is the wrong way to describe this...can, maybe, only if you're unlucky are better ways to describe your chances of breaking the cam chain on your ls6.

I'm driving one with 257k on it and the valve covers have never been off it.

Put a clutch, motor mounts and an 8.8 or v2 cradle swap in it and you'll be on you're way to having something. This is where it all starts and while many will say the stock diff will work (and it will), my car feels so much better with an 8.8/1 piece driveshaft in it and I don't worry about breaking it.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I agree that it's not a common thing. It's just one of those things that, if it ever does happen to you, spells doom for your motor. Ideally, it should never ever happen because the parts are not that expensive.

Chain breakage really only happens to people that do a lot of power mods, neglect to upgrade the chain, and apply the throttle like it's a binary system. After many such load cycles, the chain loosens up. Eventually when the driver suddenly lets off the gas and then slams it back on, the chain kinks and then slams taut, breaking it.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Translated....if you beat the crap out of it and don't take care of it you'll break it.

FBDYLVR

iTrader: (14)

Your part list is exactly what I had installed on my 07 in April. The shop that installed it knew that the LUK parts were basically OEM LS7 parts. The revs climb without any effort anymore.

Saulen-04ctsv

Thanks for all the feedback guys...

Also wondering what exhaust systems are you guys running? I'm looking into an exhaust as well.. I would like to eventually get kooks longtubes but cant afford both atm. Wondering if i could do exhaust then get longtubes later or should I just wait and do headers and exhaust at the same time. Cheapest I can find is about $2,500 for both.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

exact parts I installed but didn't use the 'upgraded' slave line and I don't think you'll need it... the one that comes with the LS7 slave in that kit is just long but it's a flexible line. The speed bleeder works awesome.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

One of the best exhaust sounds for a V is headers, x-pipe to stock cat-back.

Anthony Toal

I went with Stainless Works for mine, love the sound, got it for around 2k for a full systems, headers to mufflers cat back. Went together pretty easy, my only complaint is the bungs for the post O2 sensors were a little too far back, had to solder in some extra wires to make it work

Mike ctsV

What kind of x pipe? And with cats or without? Im wantin to do kooks with cats to stock resonator with muffler delete, or kooks no cats with x pipe and muffler delete but add the slp loud mouths back there

Mike ctsV

Happen to have an audio clip?
Ive been lookin at exhaust example threads before i make up my mind and spend that kind of money, just dont know what to do yet lol

Anthony Toal

I have their Hi-Flow Cats, X-Pipe and mufflers, you can get their resonator, and if you ever want to switch to the x-pipe, you can with no problems at all. its a 3" setup too.






I can make one for you, probably wont be until this weekend though.

Mike ctsV

I'm sure when I do add headers I'm going to have to drive it to a muffler shop and have it welded up to my factory cat back, would it be fine to drive it like that to get there? and would it be fine to drive it un tuned after the headers and exhaust mods? And should i have the headers coated? If i didnt coat how long would they last here in FL? Also lookin at the becker headers, any thoughts on those?

Mike ctsV

Another question is if i do go with the kooks do i have to buy the kooks cats to make it work or can i buy different cats from somewhere else to use with the kooks? The best deal i can find on the kooks is at maryland speed, 970 for the headers and 420 for the cats, thanks for the help guys

demang

iTrader: (3)

Yes you can drive to the shop with no tune. I have my ps headers coated and wrapped. Some say not to wrap them but it helps me keep temps down when i'm at the track.

CTSvOH

I agree. If you're going to have the trans out you might as well replace the motor and trans mounts.Put a short throw shifter in if thats what you want and replace all the shifter bushing too. Also if you have any problems going into first gear you might want to check 1st and 2nd gear synchro's. I am planning on doing all of this as well here in the next few months.

Anthony Toal

You can run around with headers and no tune perfectly fine, I did that for 3 months before I had to tune out the eco ****, damn evaps system wouldn't complete after all the drive cycles I have done. If you want something that will make your life easier, buy the complete kit, if your just looking for headers then just do headers. Stainless works also has it able to connect to your factory exhaust as well, its a few extra $$ more, Idk about kooks with these cars, they did for the 4th gen Camaros. Like CTSvOH stated, if your gonna pull the tranny out, check everything while you have it out, other wise you will end up just doing it again down the road, while the headers are off as well, the perfect time to look at the motor mounts. CAUTION!!!! When taking off the headers on the driver side, be careful of the water temp sensor, it is one the cylinder head right above one of the bolts to the headers up towards the front of the engine, they break very easily if your not careful.