cadispeedster

The stock LS2 wires have almost a 90° bend in them, is there a different wire that will work that is straight?

Also, is that metal heat shield required to be used again? Or if protective fiberglass boots are utilized with straight wires, is that heat shield enough?

I doubt those metal heat shields are to prevent electric interference of some sort, but I could be wrong.

Anthony Toal

MSD wires you can bend which way you like, the heat shield is just to reduce heat radiation, i dont use the shields, more pain in the *** when changing plugs

cadispeedster

Yeah, it's tough to make sure the wire is snapped in properly. Any trick to this? Just push hard, eh?

If the wire wasn't plugged in correctly, it would through a code, correct? There's still a vibration around 2,000 RPM's (recommended to change plugs and wires by the dealer)

Anthony Toal

yea, you should feel a slight click when you push them in. As for your vibration at 2k, it could be a bad plug wires or coil packs, it should throw a code for a misfire if you do have issues

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Have someone Rev your car to 2000 and peek at your harmonic balancer....

Anthony Toal

that too

cadispeedster

it's a bit rusty 'AF' but fine where the belt goes. Surprisingly, it's the only thing with any kind of rust on the whole car and it was bought up north in Rockford, Illinois. Doesn't seem to wobble too baaad...? I can take a video when the sun comes back up.

Anthony Toal

It could be vibrating at that specific rpm, if it has a slight wobble it could be causing your issue. Jmilz suggestion is good, so if you have help give it a try. Also listen for any knocking. it is easier to just start from the plugs if you dont see anything wrong, watch a few youtube videos of how spark plugs should look and symptoms of lean conditions and fouling etc.

cadispeedster

I guess it kinda makes sense. Car just hit 100k miles. It's not bad, but at idle it doesn't look too sturdy. What do ya'll recommend ATI? $1,000 job?

Anthony Toal

I see a little wobble, but I dont know if it is or not with the camera slightly moving. Honestly, I have seen worse, though the way these cars are apparently, anything can happen. The engine sounds good, I dont hear any knocks. did it vibrate as you made the videos? where do you feel the vibrations, steering wheel, floor boards, seat, etc? Does it vibrate only under the load, such as A/C and/or turning?

cadispeedster

You can definitely feel it in the steering wheel and shift ****. I believe it can also be felt through the pedal and just sitting in the seat. It's only while going through 1500-2000 RPM in neutral. I'd like to figure out what the vibration is before upgrading to a LS7 clutch system, changing out engine and trans mount, drive shaft bushing, and rear diff bushing.

The drive shaft cradle bushing, rear diff is shot, and clutch/flywheel was recommended to be replaced by the dealer, but that's has to do with the car moving. And the quote to do all this was way too much in labor, so I'll be doing it myself.

Thanks for the help!

Anthony Toal

It only vibrates in neutral? Not while driving or anything else? Take a peak at the motor and tranny mounts, they could be transmitting the vibes through your steering rack and the tranny to the shift ****. I find it weird that it only does it while not under a load. It not hard to do all the labor, just tedious and a headache sometimes laying the floor and trying to do everything

cadispeedster

While driving there's a whole other slew of issues. That's were this all stemmed from. I'm not sure if I'm just being paranoid, but I just had two other people try it and they said they feel the same thing.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...nsmission.html
This is where it all started, but the short story is after taking it to the dealer (whoa on parts and labor), they recommended a bunch of things that only have to do while the car is in gear and not running rough at idle at certain RPMs.

Spark plugs and wires, clutch and flywheel, new drive shaft, rear differential bushing. They said the trans mount is good, but it looks like it's sagging.

So I've done the plugs and wire's but there's still some engine vib. Glad I didn't pay 8k at the dealer so far lol.

Anthony Toal

What did the spark plugs look like and smell like? Any sweet odor? Do you still have the low coolant issue? So right now, you have only done spark plugs and wires correct?

cadispeedster

They don't smell much of anything. Haven't drove the car except back from the dealer to home and I can't remember if it still gets triggered. They said that there might be a short in the system and quoted me $700 to replace the tank with the sensor in it. Another weird thing is sometimes shutting off the car, the headlight squirts will trigger... I swear this car is possessed.

And correct, just plugs and wires so far.

Anthony Toal

they look good to me, little wire brush to clean them up and your good to go. I honestly dont know whether to troubleshoot for a mechanical or a electrical issue, with your rpms hanging, i am leaning towards electrical,have you checked your grounds?

cadispeedster

It's been recommended to check a few grounding point and refresh them. Some I can get to, others seems like it will be a pain. Checked a few, but I find it hard to believe if nothing is touched, a ground will just go bad. I understand over time they can corrode or whatever the proper term is though.

Anthony Toal

you would be surprised to what happens with electrical connections... Your best bet is to start with the grounds, make sure all are making a good clean contact, using a wire brush to clean any corrosion or oxidation.

cadispeedster

Post from the other forum.

Correct me if I'm wrong with the numbers. I removed the bolts and refreshed the grounds I could find and replaced the plugs and wires.

Update: Running better but there's still some minor vibration running through the RPM's in neutral. More around 2100 RPM is the worst but not shaking the whole car or anything. Maybe it's always been there and I haven't noticed.
If in neutral and the clutch is not pressed in, there is some clutch chatter sound. And it goes away with depressing the clutch peddle, but still the same engine vibration felt through the steering wheel, seat, and shift **** the most.

From the Diagram darkman supplied: http://s42.photobucket.com/user/flye...Image.png.html

2 or 4 (G110, G105) not sure exactly which one this was but it's the one under the left side hood strut


3 (G130) Left side rear of engine


15 A&B (G131) Right side rear of engine


13 (G101) Right side "under hood strut." There is nothing grounded to this but I refreshed it anyways.

Anthony Toal

this kind of points to the issue, it might be the flywheel or the clutch, I would still take a look at the mounts as well, if they are bad or worn, they will transmit vibes