Check those Balancers...25k miles, and done!
12-23-2017, 12:30 PM
#1
Check those Balancers...25k miles, and done! Hey to All, happy holidays
so I rarely get to drive my CTS-V, its an 07' w/25k miles. I fire it up and hear a slight belt squeal. No biggie, I'm driving and it squeels alil more. So I stop by my buddies Goodyear with it. Now its got a slight tick and a noticeable squeal. I figure bad pulley or idler or even a belt is needed. Nope, the harmonic balancer is shot and the belt starting to walk. We can visually see it wobbling. Oh well, new ATI 10% under drive unit is on its way.
The funny part of the story is my buddy has an 04' cts-V with 24k original miles that he never drives either. Same basic bolt ons as mine. He goes home to check his for comparison to mine(as its kinda an odd diagnosis we thought), sure enough, he can see signs of rubber starting to fail along with a noticeable wobble to it. More GM junk, lol, prolly our faults for not driving them enough!
P.s. I believe his is forsale if anyone is looking for a mint low mileage Black cts-v with only an exhaust and CAI. Prolly a new harmonic balancer too. Both are in NJ, I thought about selling mine to fund my new house being built, but I love mine to much and just put a CS 8.8 in it for future head n cam build.
so I rarely get to drive my CTS-V, its an 07' w/25k miles. I fire it up and hear a slight belt squeal. No biggie, I'm driving and it squeels alil more. So I stop by my buddies Goodyear with it. Now its got a slight tick and a noticeable squeal. I figure bad pulley or idler or even a belt is needed. Nope, the harmonic balancer is shot and the belt starting to walk. We can visually see it wobbling. Oh well, new ATI 10% under drive unit is on its way.
The funny part of the story is my buddy has an 04' cts-V with 24k original miles that he never drives either. Same basic bolt ons as mine. He goes home to check his for comparison to mine(as its kinda an odd diagnosis we thought), sure enough, he can see signs of rubber starting to fail along with a noticeable wobble to it. More GM junk, lol, prolly our faults for not driving them enough!
P.s. I believe his is forsale if anyone is looking for a mint low mileage Black cts-v with only an exhaust and CAI. Prolly a new harmonic balancer too. Both are in NJ, I thought about selling mine to fund my new house being built, but I love mine to much and just put a CS 8.8 in it for future head n cam build.
12-24-2017, 06:56 AM
#3
I just bought my V a few months ago and that was one of the first things I noticed needed replacement. Ordered the ATI replacement. Have not installed yet, but at least I have it. Good ol rubber, you can count on it beginning ot degrade 6 years past the point of manufacturing. Mine is wobbly.
12-25-2017, 08:34 AM
#6
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I didn't got with the 10% underdrive because I've read a few posts about low voltage etc. If it wasn't a street car and I raced it or it lived at high RPMs, then I would have went with 10% underdrive. I daily the car so I didn't want any issues with cooling, voltage, or AC.
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12-26-2017, 03:08 PM
#8
I replaced mine at 170k for good measure and because I caught a discounted blem ATI on ebay. The old one seemed fine, though. To compensate for voltage drops when running an underdrive pulley, you can put a smaller pulley on the alt.
As for one failing at 25k, I'd say that's likely due to sitting. Rubber needs some movement to stay durable. Dry rot will ruin all of those rubber parts.
As for one failing at 25k, I'd say that's likely due to sitting. Rubber needs some movement to stay durable. Dry rot will ruin all of those rubber parts.
Last edited by BudRacing; 12-28-2017 at 09:59 AM.
12-27-2017, 02:53 PM
#9
No problem with the 10% UD ATI and low voltages. Heard the same issues with low voltages on the 25% UD, but do not think I have heard them to date on the 10%. Had mine for 3 years and 50K miles and no issues. Tourqe the ARP bolt down correctly and you will be good.
12-28-2017, 09:58 AM
#12
It was actually easier than I thought it would be. Set the parking brake, put it in 4th gear, and put a cheater bar over the torque wrench arm and give it a nice even press upwards (or away from you depending on angle). It was much easier than the subframe bolts.
12-28-2017, 11:13 PM
#13
Well, honestly, it went to smooth. Car is back together n runs fine. I didnt drive it bcuz belt i have on is too long(80.9"). They sent me a 75.5" belt(way to small). My research n logic leaves me to believe i need a 78.5 belt for the 10% underdrive ATI damper p/n 917278.
Having said that, im also gunna get the car tuned. Kinda sux as i have very few hp mods, ati 10% ud, just muffler delete, cs 8.8 w/4:10s, hurst short shifter, and a CAI. Problem is, since the cs 8.8 swap, my speedo is off bcuz of the 4 10s. So thats the real reason for the tune. Im hopn they can squeeze alil more rwhp out of it while at it. I ve read some got another 25+ rwhp just tuning a stock set up. We ll see. $550 for a dyno tune is alot with no real mods,lol.
Having said that, im also gunna get the car tuned. Kinda sux as i have very few hp mods, ati 10% ud, just muffler delete, cs 8.8 w/4:10s, hurst short shifter, and a CAI. Problem is, since the cs 8.8 swap, my speedo is off bcuz of the 4 10s. So thats the real reason for the tune. Im hopn they can squeeze alil more rwhp out of it while at it. I ve read some got another 25+ rwhp just tuning a stock set up. We ll see. $550 for a dyno tune is alot with no real mods,lol.
12-29-2017, 08:13 AM
#14
If they will retune for a discount later, that is money well spent. Even if not, you will correct your minor issues AND the car should drive better. Things like turning off torque management, throttle response, and all the other massaging really will wake it up. It's not just the peak gain, it's the total area under the curve and the way it drives that should impress you. Throw some headers on there before hand if you can, that will seal the deal!
12-29-2017, 04:50 PM
#15
I am 300 into my trifecta and they are retuning for my fast intake for free. FWIW. If you have a 06-07 might save you a few bucks. Have been happy with mine and they are quick on the turnaround. It's 800 Plus for a dyno tune out here for a good street tune it's a hard number to swallow.
12-29-2017, 08:49 PM
#16
If they will retune for a discount later, that is money well spent. Even if not, you will correct your minor issues AND the car should drive better. Things like turning off torque management, throttle response, and all the other massaging really will wake it up. It's not just the peak gain, it's the total area under the curve and the way it drives that should impress you. Throw some headers on there before hand if you can, that will seal the deal!
I am 300 into my trifecta and they are retuning for my fast intake for free. FWIW. If you have a 06-07 might save you a few bucks. Have been happy with mine and they are quick on the turnaround. It's 800 Plus for a dyno tune out here for a good street tune it's a hard number to swallow.
12-29-2017, 08:52 PM
#17
Tune Time(20min away), they qouted me $550 for tuning and an additional $118 to "inspect" my car prior to loading it on the dyno. That just seems so expensive. Plus i ve heard good n bad 1st hand experiances bout thier tuning. I dunno, always 3sides to every story...
12-29-2017, 11:51 PM
#18
Never had to have a car "inspected" prior to dynoing nor would I ever pay for it. What intake do you have? The ls6 or ls2 the fast will get you in the 5-7 range in place of the ls6 and 15 with the ls2. Its the biggest non flowing turd of an intake out there.
Fast and long tubes are in the high 380s on the ls2. There have been a couple documented v's on here running stock internals with just the intake, tune and long tubes.
Fast and long tubes are in the high 380s on the ls2. There have been a couple documented v's on here running stock internals with just the intake, tune and long tubes.
12-30-2017, 07:10 AM
#19
^^^perfect, than i will install the fast 92 prior to a tuning session. For some odd reason i thought it was useless without headwork and or a cam...counter productive actually. But i ll throw it on anyways now. I have a bone stock ls2 on the car now