Is a TR6060 worth it?
#1
Is a TR6060 worth it?
So my trans is dead.
I'm international, so I'm going to end up eating a core charge which brings the total amount within spitting distance of a TR6060.
Is it worth the extra? Realistically my goals are 450-500 whp.
Other than easier availability of parts, what other advantage is there?
It would be a level 4 or 5 unit from RPM.
-Byron
I'm international, so I'm going to end up eating a core charge which brings the total amount within spitting distance of a TR6060.
Is it worth the extra? Realistically my goals are 450-500 whp.
Other than easier availability of parts, what other advantage is there?
It would be a level 4 or 5 unit from RPM.
-Byron
#2
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Here's a great post with good info regarding both (although dated). The T56 Magnum is said to be the T56 case with 6060 improved internals.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...l#post12641277
If I were to be facing the same, I'd want to upgrade to the 6060/magnum.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...l#post12641277
If I were to be facing the same, I'd want to upgrade to the 6060/magnum.
#4
RPM does some machine work to the input shaft and a few other things to make a drop in, plug and play TR6060.
I'm eagerly waiting on them to open up on 2 Jan so they can shut up and take my money. 😎
I'm still undecided on t56 over tr6060. But 6060 has no core charge, and I can source parts locally here in Dubai.
Guess it will come down to what is cheaper shipped, my ultimate goal is 550 ish at the wheels. A level 4 tr6060 can do that all day long. As can a T56. If T56 isn't available I'll go 6060, simple as that.
I only have one car, so I need to get it on the road asap. I already sold the T56 core that's dead to a guy locally.
-Byron
I'm eagerly waiting on them to open up on 2 Jan so they can shut up and take my money. 😎
I'm still undecided on t56 over tr6060. But 6060 has no core charge, and I can source parts locally here in Dubai.
Guess it will come down to what is cheaper shipped, my ultimate goal is 550 ish at the wheels. A level 4 tr6060 can do that all day long. As can a T56. If T56 isn't available I'll go 6060, simple as that.
I only have one car, so I need to get it on the road asap. I already sold the T56 core that's dead to a guy locally.
-Byron
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#8
So I am waiting on machining to finish up on the new spacer.
The act spacer that came with the clutch kit is 24mm. 24mm spacer plus stock V slave = Ls7 slave length.
New spacer is 13.5mm.
Puts the air gap in specs of 3-5.08 mm at 4.8mm.
I am using a stock centric brand V slave. Ls7 setup would be too long if you are going this route.
Everything behind the trans is flawless and same as the t56. Dorman shaft is perfectly aligned with stock mount and revshif insert. The CS (old style) is too tall.
-Byron
#11
Interesting side note for those looking to do the swap. With the new tranzilla, the mid plate is 10mm closer to the clutch assy.
So I am waiting on machining to finish up on the new spacer.
The act spacer that came with the clutch kit is 24mm. 24mm spacer plus stock V slave = Ls7 slave length.
New spacer is 13.5mm.
Puts the air gap in specs of 3-5.08 mm at 4.8mm.
I am using a stock centric brand V slave. Ls7 setup would be too long if you are going this route.
Everything behind the trans is flawless and same as the t56. Dorman shaft is perfectly aligned with stock mount and revshif insert. The CS (old style) is too tall.
-Byron
So I am waiting on machining to finish up on the new spacer.
The act spacer that came with the clutch kit is 24mm. 24mm spacer plus stock V slave = Ls7 slave length.
New spacer is 13.5mm.
Puts the air gap in specs of 3-5.08 mm at 4.8mm.
I am using a stock centric brand V slave. Ls7 setup would be too long if you are going this route.
Everything behind the trans is flawless and same as the t56. Dorman shaft is perfectly aligned with stock mount and revshif insert. The CS (old style) is too tall.
-Byron
Tomorrow will be the day.
-Byron
#12
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
I've hear rumors that the V1 bellhousing is deeper than other LS applications because of the dual m *** flywheel but I've never been able to actually prove it.
But I've never heard of midplate thickness variations. If I was at home, I'd measure mine for you but it would be interesting to know exactly what is different about this setup.
But I've never heard of midplate thickness variations. If I was at home, I'd measure mine for you but it would be interesting to know exactly what is different about this setup.
#13
I've hear rumors that the V1 bellhousing is deeper than other LS applications because of the dual m *** flywheel but I've never been able to actually prove it.
But I've never heard of midplate thickness variations. If I was at home, I'd measure mine for you but it would be interesting to know exactly what is different about this setup.
But I've never heard of midplate thickness variations. If I was at home, I'd measure mine for you but it would be interesting to know exactly what is different about this setup.
all t56 bell housings are the same.
#14
TECH Junkie
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go to d and d , get the t56 magnum aka modded tr6060 . i got one for my fbody , if you plan to keep the car and beat on it its the way to go . Much stronger , and how often do you see posts about looking for someone to beef up their tr6060? i dont know if i seen more than 1 or 2 .
Its just better and more updated , you can sell your t56 and get 500 or 600 bucks for it .
Its just better and more updated , you can sell your t56 and get 500 or 600 bucks for it .
#16
It's longer, therefore you need a shorter spacer.
A T56 midplate/front cover sits slightly farther back when mounted to the bell housing and you use a ls7 slave or V slave with spacer when you switch from the dual mass setup. This is the reason why it needs a longer slave for any non dual mass setup.
The front cover/midplate is longer on the tranzilla, so you use 13.5-14.5 mm (1/2" ish) spacer vs 24mm spacer (3/4" ish) for the T56. Since the tranzilla spaces it closer to the engine and pressure plate, a shorter slave (V slave) needs to be used.
Look at the picture I inserted above. You can plainly see it's thicker. This is to accommodate the larger bearings and gears plus whatever else is under there.
George at RSG can more accurately describe the details to you should you need. He is really good to deal with, and is quite adept at answering technical questions. And....he always answers the phone. 😉
I'm no expert, I just needed a transmission and found the one going into my car at a good price from a guy who didn't install it, and had mostly the gear ratios I would have chosen anyway. George filled in the rest of the blanks.
When I posted here about the difference in length, it's because I was unable to find this information on the relatively small number of posts about the transmission.
This is my way of providing a easy way for someone else who is thinking about doing the swap to be able to find this info and be prepared for what all comes with the swap.
The need for a shorter slave and shorter spacer seems to be consistent with the other 2 gents I was able to speak with who are running one.
As popular as it seems to be for a recommendation, there isn't much info about them in V1s that I can find.
A small post here or there about how great it is, but little else to go off of and nothing paticularly technical.
I'll be posting a review on the trans, selection of the gears and a short video showing it in action in my car. Might even get some camels and stuff in the background while I cruise around.
-Byron
A T56 midplate/front cover sits slightly farther back when mounted to the bell housing and you use a ls7 slave or V slave with spacer when you switch from the dual mass setup. This is the reason why it needs a longer slave for any non dual mass setup.
The front cover/midplate is longer on the tranzilla, so you use 13.5-14.5 mm (1/2" ish) spacer vs 24mm spacer (3/4" ish) for the T56. Since the tranzilla spaces it closer to the engine and pressure plate, a shorter slave (V slave) needs to be used.
Look at the picture I inserted above. You can plainly see it's thicker. This is to accommodate the larger bearings and gears plus whatever else is under there.
George at RSG can more accurately describe the details to you should you need. He is really good to deal with, and is quite adept at answering technical questions. And....he always answers the phone. 😉
I'm no expert, I just needed a transmission and found the one going into my car at a good price from a guy who didn't install it, and had mostly the gear ratios I would have chosen anyway. George filled in the rest of the blanks.
When I posted here about the difference in length, it's because I was unable to find this information on the relatively small number of posts about the transmission.
This is my way of providing a easy way for someone else who is thinking about doing the swap to be able to find this info and be prepared for what all comes with the swap.
The need for a shorter slave and shorter spacer seems to be consistent with the other 2 gents I was able to speak with who are running one.
As popular as it seems to be for a recommendation, there isn't much info about them in V1s that I can find.
A small post here or there about how great it is, but little else to go off of and nothing paticularly technical.
I'll be posting a review on the trans, selection of the gears and a short video showing it in action in my car. Might even get some camels and stuff in the background while I cruise around.
-Byron
#19
Looking like it will need the smaller Fbody pilot bearing. This seems to be the last hurdle.
I'll snag one tomorrow at the dealership and give it a try. Input shaft is 3mm (.118") longer, so it sits into the crank that much farther.
The larger style will cause issues and binding, along with other bad things.
-Byron
#20
Yep. George at RSG confirmed that's what's holding up the install.
I will have to locally source an Fbody needle bearing style one. That perfectly explains away the 3mm that it's needing.
For reference the part numbers are BA381 or GM part number 14016185.
-Byron
I will have to locally source an Fbody needle bearing style one. That perfectly explains away the 3mm that it's needing.
For reference the part numbers are BA381 or GM part number 14016185.
-Byron
Last edited by Byron; 01-20-2018 at 06:50 PM.