Where to begin...
05-08-2008, 08:23 AM
#21
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I would change the rear tires and get a UUC shifter. If you can put MORE power to the ground and shift faster, then your car will be faster!!! Tires will help with the wheel hop. Buy a intake also and call it a day for know.
05-08-2008, 08:40 AM
#22
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and thanks I think it looks pretty mean. Needs to be lowered though
05-08-2008, 04:56 PM
#28
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05-09-2008, 06:31 AM
#30
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Yeah I'm not looking to void my 100k mile warranty in the first couple weeks of owning it. I think I would feel more comfortable with a programmer that I can switch back and forth if needed.
05-09-2008, 01:36 PM
#33
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It doesn't matter what hp you pick up over stock, it matters that you changed the timing/fuel maps. If you burn a hole in a piston they'll look and say "lookie here, thats a dang ole different tune than caddy had stock" and you're out a motor.
05-13-2008, 06:13 PM
#38
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Great start. Anyone who hasn't added the K&N yet do so now IMO. Seems to be a nice little gain as traction control comes on sooner (
) and the sound that car makes with stock exhaust even is worth the money. I got mine for $249 shipped.
05-13-2008, 08:00 PM
#39
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Good timing--I just added the FIPK and put my car on the dyno today. It was a dynojet (I don't want to get into accuracy vs. Mustang; I'm not after any sort of bragging rights, but this was the closest dyno to me). Anyway, the car baselined at 348.3 hp at 6100 rpm and 338.0 lb-ft at 4800 rpm. We installed the FIPK on the dyno (it turned out the previous owner had added a K&N panel filter in the stock housing, for whatever that's worth) and afterward it pulled 356.9 hp and 343.6 lb-ft at the same rpm as the baseline pull.
