Strange no-start issue
#1
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
Strange no-start issue
2006 V ... 60K miles. 100% stock.
Parked the V in the garage last night ... no issues at all.
Get out this morning and the car won't start.
The motor doesn't even spin over. I here the "click" of the starter solenoid engaging. That is indicative of a dead battery, typically.
All electronics seem to work OK and the disply says 12.2 volts with key on and drops to 11.8 when I attempt to start and hear the "click" from under the hood.
Attached a jump box. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
Pulled the fresh battery from my race car and tried jumping it. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
I went as far as removing the old battery and replacing it with the fresh one, in case there was some sort of crazy dead short in the old battery. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
So the next thing to try would be the starter, right?
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Parked the V in the garage last night ... no issues at all.
Get out this morning and the car won't start.
The motor doesn't even spin over. I here the "click" of the starter solenoid engaging. That is indicative of a dead battery, typically.
All electronics seem to work OK and the disply says 12.2 volts with key on and drops to 11.8 when I attempt to start and hear the "click" from under the hood.
Attached a jump box. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
Pulled the fresh battery from my race car and tried jumping it. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
I went as far as removing the old battery and replacing it with the fresh one, in case there was some sort of crazy dead short in the old battery. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
So the next thing to try would be the starter, right?
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
#2
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From: eastern, PA
How many times did you try to start it?
I ask because sometimes starters get 'dead spots' in them and you need to keep trying until it gets past that spot. Might take 10-20+ tries to get the starter to work again.
Sorry if you already know this. Just going off past experience.
I ask because sometimes starters get 'dead spots' in them and you need to keep trying until it gets past that spot. Might take 10-20+ tries to get the starter to work again.
Sorry if you already know this. Just going off past experience.
#3
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
2006 V ... 60K miles. 100% stock.
Parked the V in the garage last night ... no issues at all.
Get out this morning and the car won't start.
The motor doesn't even spin over. I here the "click" of the starter solenoid engaging. That is indicative of a dead battery, typically.
All electronics seem to work OK and the disply says 12.2 volts with key on and drops to 11.8 when I attempt to start and hear the "click" from under the hood.
Attached a jump box. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
Pulled the fresh battery from my race car and tried jumping it. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
I went as far as removing the old battery and replacing it with the fresh one, in case there was some sort of crazy dead short in the old battery. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
So the next thing to try would be the starter, right?
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Parked the V in the garage last night ... no issues at all.
Get out this morning and the car won't start.
The motor doesn't even spin over. I here the "click" of the starter solenoid engaging. That is indicative of a dead battery, typically.
All electronics seem to work OK and the disply says 12.2 volts with key on and drops to 11.8 when I attempt to start and hear the "click" from under the hood.
Attached a jump box. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
Pulled the fresh battery from my race car and tried jumping it. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
I went as far as removing the old battery and replacing it with the fresh one, in case there was some sort of crazy dead short in the old battery. Same thing ... "click" no attempt at a start.
So the next thing to try would be the starter, right?
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
#4
Launching!
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From: St. Louis Metro Area
I had the EXACT same thing happen and it turned out needing a new starter. Dealership put it in under warranty a few months back.
Who needs a starter anyway? lol. It's amazing how ez our cars are to push start. I literally rolled down my driveway like 3 feet and popped it...started right up. My driveway isn't a very steep incline either.
Who needs a starter anyway? lol. It's amazing how ez our cars are to push start. I literally rolled down my driveway like 3 feet and popped it...started right up. My driveway isn't a very steep incline either.
#5
TECH Resident
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I had the EXACT same thing happen and it turned out needing a new starter. Dealership put it in under warranty a few months back.
Who needs a starter anyway? lol. It's amazing how ez our cars are to push start. I literally rolled down my driveway like 3 feet and popped it...started right up. My driveway isn't a very steep incline either.
Who needs a starter anyway? lol. It's amazing how ez our cars are to push start. I literally rolled down my driveway like 3 feet and popped it...started right up. My driveway isn't a very steep incline either.
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#9
Passenger side converter. (the bolts will not go easily) I did mine on jack stands in the garage. I always take the wheels off when I'm working under the front of the car. Makes it easier to crawl under.
There is a pigtail connector you should also replace while you're at it.
There is a pigtail connector you should also replace while you're at it.
#12
The click you here is the starter solenoid kicking the starter drive into the flywheel.
The starter is not motoring because there could be an open circuit related to possibly several causes -
ie open circuit in one of the bars of the commutator, brush contact, open in a coil in starter or the simplest,
a poor connection between the solenoid and starter motor.
Sometimes the heating and cooling of the connection will become loose.
This excessive resistance can cause overheating of the terminals until failure results.
Hopefully a little contact cleaner and a slight tweak or snug-it-up is all you need or off it comes and that sucks if you do not have a lift.
Good Luck.
The starter is not motoring because there could be an open circuit related to possibly several causes -
ie open circuit in one of the bars of the commutator, brush contact, open in a coil in starter or the simplest,
a poor connection between the solenoid and starter motor.
Sometimes the heating and cooling of the connection will become loose.
This excessive resistance can cause overheating of the terminals until failure results.
Hopefully a little contact cleaner and a slight tweak or snug-it-up is all you need or off it comes and that sucks if you do not have a lift.
Good Luck.
#13
I had issues with mine, but in my case it was the clip that connects to the starter, the stupid thing melted, but if your hearing a click its most likely not that...good luck, the started for these cars arent cheap
#14
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (12)
If you're running headers (and even if you're not) a good heat shield (like from LPE) will help dramatically. DEI makes velcro heat shield tubing for the wiring, also not a bad idea.
If you have to buy a new starter and you go with a non-OEM, make sure that both mounting bolts are the long ones (newer series w/stronger nose).
Also, the LS starters are displacement oriented, not vehicle specific, and are interchangeable (they all are for 168t flywheels) as long as you get the right one for your motor size (the usage break is 4.8-5.3 and 5.7 up).
There are quality starters out there for around $80 if you look. Of course, if you are running a really high CR (over 12:1) with a big motor, you'll have to step up to the higher priced spread.
If you have to buy a new starter and you go with a non-OEM, make sure that both mounting bolts are the long ones (newer series w/stronger nose).
Also, the LS starters are displacement oriented, not vehicle specific, and are interchangeable (they all are for 168t flywheels) as long as you get the right one for your motor size (the usage break is 4.8-5.3 and 5.7 up).
There are quality starters out there for around $80 if you look. Of course, if you are running a really high CR (over 12:1) with a big motor, you'll have to step up to the higher priced spread.
#16
#17
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
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Update:
A little discoloration on the stud coming off the solenoid, but the connection was solid and clean.
Cat came off without drama except for the O2 connector locations which are made for some one with tiny hands and not my meat claws.
Starter came out with a little rubic's cube action.
Put it in the vice ... the solenoid actuated no problem. But the starter motor itself sounded like a thrashing machine. lots of noise coming from inside and when you shook it, it rattled really badly.
Got the new starter and 12V to the starter motor had the motor spinning up smooth and with an even tone. RPM was probably twice what the old one was.
Installed it all in about 15 minutes and the lit off like it always has.
Thanks for every one's input and help.
The one thing no one mentioned is that if you put a wrench on the main starter lug without disconnecting the battery, it makes a really interesting light show. I think I could have TIG welded with it.
LOL
A little discoloration on the stud coming off the solenoid, but the connection was solid and clean.
Cat came off without drama except for the O2 connector locations which are made for some one with tiny hands and not my meat claws.
Starter came out with a little rubic's cube action.
Put it in the vice ... the solenoid actuated no problem. But the starter motor itself sounded like a thrashing machine. lots of noise coming from inside and when you shook it, it rattled really badly.
Got the new starter and 12V to the starter motor had the motor spinning up smooth and with an even tone. RPM was probably twice what the old one was.
Installed it all in about 15 minutes and the lit off like it always has.
Thanks for every one's input and help.
The one thing no one mentioned is that if you put a wrench on the main starter lug without disconnecting the battery, it makes a really interesting light show. I think I could have TIG welded with it.
LOL
#18
So . . . since you admitted to us that you did that . . without diconnecting the battery(bad boy, bad) and the wrench made connection to 'ground' . .
Did you have to change your underpants .? . cause I know I would, if it happened to me.
Yup, that's like 100+amps and probably a 6000*arc for a split second. YIKES!!
Glad to see . . everything is COOL, now.
Did you have to change your underpants .? . cause I know I would, if it happened to me.
Yup, that's like 100+amps and probably a 6000*arc for a split second. YIKES!!
Glad to see . . everything is COOL, now.