UMI CTS-V Motor mount install
11-14-2011, 12:52 AM
#1
UMI CTS-V Motor mount install UMI Motor Mount Installation for 04-07 CTS-V
Tools needed:
o 7/8” or 22 MM Socket
o 7/8” or 22MM wrench
o 21 MM deep socket
o 21 MM box wrench
o 15 MM deep socket
o 13 MM deep socket
o E10 socket (the female star looking bit)
o Preferably 18” worth of extensions
o May need breaker, impact, or ½” ratchet for sub frame nuts.
o Grease gun
Get the car in the air – the more room you have to work the better. Make sure the car is secure. Jack stands if on the floor; lock the safety devices if using a lift.
Support the engine with a jack. Use a block of wood to distribute the load. Just light tension for now, not trying to lift it yet.
The following steps will need to be done twice. One for the driver one for the passenger side. Both are very similar. Do both sides at the same time.
Remove the two sub frame nuts with the 21mm deep socket.
If the stud does not come out with the nut then use the E10 to remove the stud.
Next remove the front bolt on the sub frame with a 13mm deep socket. You will have to reach it from above by wrapping your arm around the a arm. The bolt is just behind the steering rack.
The lower mounts should now be free from the sub frame. Now jack the engine as high as you reasonably can. You can tell just when the body will want to lift with the engine/transmission.
Remove the nut holding the lower base to the motor mount. Use the box end of the21 mm wrench again reaching around the a arm. You can just barely see the nut through the gap between the a arm and sub frame.
Remove the lower base from the car. May have to twist it around some to clear the steering linkage, cats, or starter.
Now the upper base needs to be unbolted from the block.
Pull the two plastic clips holding the wiring harness to the mount on the lower driver’s side bolts. Note these two bolts are different from the rest.
Using the extensions and 15MM deep socket remove the four bolts on the driver’s side and three bolts on the passenger’s side. There is not a bolt behind the starter.
The easiest way to reach the bolts are as follows:
o Front upper bolts use the extensions OVER the sway bar in front of the a arm.
o Front lower bolts use the extensions UNDER the sway bar in front of the a arm.
o Rear bolts can all be reached behind the sub frame with extensions.
Now roll the mount and upper base so you can reach the top nut holding the two together. Use 21mm socket. Remove it and the remaining pieces should come free of the car.
Now to prep the new mounts for installation.
Attach the U bracket to the upper base plates. There is a guide pin to line them up. Replace the nut and tighten with 21mm wrench. If you choose to reuse the heat shields make sure it does not get stuck between the two pieces. I did not use them.
Loosely attach the lower plates to the mounts. Orient them so the grease fittings will point out towards the tires. Rounded edge in towards the motor.
It will be easier to grease the mounts now than in the car. Messier too. Your call. Fill until grease runs out the end of the mount.
Reinstallation is pretty much the reverse.
Bolt the upper plates back to the block. Remember the two studs go in the lower holes on the driver’s side. Reattach the clips holding the wiring harness. Hand tighten these first - carefully - Several people have cross threaded these threads.
Wiggle the lower plates and mounts into place. Slide the supplied bolt through the two halves.
Next loosely reinstall the E10 stud and 13mm bolt connecting the lower base to the sub frame. Do not tighten yet. You may need to lower the engine some to get them to reach.
The lower base should now be close to aligned with the sub frame. You can now tighten the 21mm nut connecting the lower base to the mount. You may not be able to reach the driver’s side if the engine is too low.
Lower the engine down to the sub frame. If everything lines up tighten the 13MM bolt and 21MM nut holding the lower mount to the sub frame.
Use the 7/8” socket and wrench to tighten the bolt connecting the upper and lower mounts.
Double check that all bolts are snug.
Lower car – Test drive!
More and larger pics:
http://imageshack.us/g/717/ctsvmounts054.jpg/
Tools needed:
o 7/8” or 22 MM Socket
o 7/8” or 22MM wrench
o 21 MM deep socket
o 21 MM box wrench
o 15 MM deep socket
o 13 MM deep socket
o E10 socket (the female star looking bit)
o Preferably 18” worth of extensions
o May need breaker, impact, or ½” ratchet for sub frame nuts.
o Grease gun
Get the car in the air – the more room you have to work the better. Make sure the car is secure. Jack stands if on the floor; lock the safety devices if using a lift.
Support the engine with a jack. Use a block of wood to distribute the load. Just light tension for now, not trying to lift it yet.
The following steps will need to be done twice. One for the driver one for the passenger side. Both are very similar. Do both sides at the same time.
Remove the two sub frame nuts with the 21mm deep socket.
If the stud does not come out with the nut then use the E10 to remove the stud.
Next remove the front bolt on the sub frame with a 13mm deep socket. You will have to reach it from above by wrapping your arm around the a arm. The bolt is just behind the steering rack.
The lower mounts should now be free from the sub frame. Now jack the engine as high as you reasonably can. You can tell just when the body will want to lift with the engine/transmission.
Remove the nut holding the lower base to the motor mount. Use the box end of the21 mm wrench again reaching around the a arm. You can just barely see the nut through the gap between the a arm and sub frame.
Remove the lower base from the car. May have to twist it around some to clear the steering linkage, cats, or starter.
Now the upper base needs to be unbolted from the block.
Pull the two plastic clips holding the wiring harness to the mount on the lower driver’s side bolts. Note these two bolts are different from the rest.
Using the extensions and 15MM deep socket remove the four bolts on the driver’s side and three bolts on the passenger’s side. There is not a bolt behind the starter.
The easiest way to reach the bolts are as follows:
o Front upper bolts use the extensions OVER the sway bar in front of the a arm.
o Front lower bolts use the extensions UNDER the sway bar in front of the a arm.
o Rear bolts can all be reached behind the sub frame with extensions.
Now roll the mount and upper base so you can reach the top nut holding the two together. Use 21mm socket. Remove it and the remaining pieces should come free of the car.
Now to prep the new mounts for installation.
Attach the U bracket to the upper base plates. There is a guide pin to line them up. Replace the nut and tighten with 21mm wrench. If you choose to reuse the heat shields make sure it does not get stuck between the two pieces. I did not use them.
Loosely attach the lower plates to the mounts. Orient them so the grease fittings will point out towards the tires. Rounded edge in towards the motor.
It will be easier to grease the mounts now than in the car. Messier too. Your call. Fill until grease runs out the end of the mount.
Reinstallation is pretty much the reverse.
Bolt the upper plates back to the block. Remember the two studs go in the lower holes on the driver’s side. Reattach the clips holding the wiring harness. Hand tighten these first - carefully - Several people have cross threaded these threads.
Wiggle the lower plates and mounts into place. Slide the supplied bolt through the two halves.
Next loosely reinstall the E10 stud and 13mm bolt connecting the lower base to the sub frame. Do not tighten yet. You may need to lower the engine some to get them to reach.
The lower base should now be close to aligned with the sub frame. You can now tighten the 21mm nut connecting the lower base to the mount. You may not be able to reach the driver’s side if the engine is too low.
Lower the engine down to the sub frame. If everything lines up tighten the 13MM bolt and 21MM nut holding the lower mount to the sub frame.
Use the 7/8” socket and wrench to tighten the bolt connecting the upper and lower mounts.
Double check that all bolts are snug.
Lower car – Test drive!
More and larger pics:
http://imageshack.us/g/717/ctsvmounts054.jpg/
Last edited by Gabbiani; 11-14-2011 at 08:06 AM. Reason: Fixed an image tag - spelling
11-14-2011, 07:30 AM
#4
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awesome write-up man, very helpful especially for those of us that have never done this. Now for the real question....Whats the verdict I saw you ordered them recently from umi? Hows the ride quality...share cause I know you are unbiased.
11-14-2011, 08:00 AM
#5
I posted a quick review in another thread on the CTS-V forum here on ls1tech.
Ride quality is great. I can detect no extra noise or vibrations from these mounts. They line up great and hold the motor at the proper height. The motor doesn't bounce around like it did with the stock mounts on hard accel or shifts.
I would say the install is easier because they are smaller than the stock mounts.
Ride quality is great. I can detect no extra noise or vibrations from these mounts. They line up great and hold the motor at the proper height. The motor doesn't bounce around like it did with the stock mounts on hard accel or shifts.
I would say the install is easier because they are smaller than the stock mounts.
11-14-2011, 08:02 AM
#6
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11-14-2011, 10:22 PM
#13
Where the lower base and the mount bolt together is at a bit of an angle. The grease fitting is just about parallel with the ground. If you spun them around the oposite way they would point down just a tad and towards the block.
With them pointed out I can't see needing a 90. To reach them you would have to reach in from the outside above the a arm.
With them pointed out I can't see needing a 90. To reach them you would have to reach in from the outside above the a arm.
11-16-2011, 11:15 PM
#14
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pretty excited that UMI is making V parts, ive used them on turbo buicks and F bodys for years and UMI has always made an amazing product and customer service. i may be ditching my creative steel mounts for these to see how they work out.
