LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

Anyone on here run them? Anyone run the Apexi brand of them?

I found a guy on ebay selling them in scarbrough for about 60-70$, and I am thinking about picking it up, just want to know if anyone has any experience with that brand and if they have had issues.

Or, where did you guys get your SS lines?

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

Well I guess no one runs them then...the guy only has the front lines and they are 35$, so I am picking them up tommorrow, and I'll have them on sometime in the next 1-2 weeks when I delete my abs and run my new combination prop valve I will have coming in....

cutlass_455

iTrader: (2)

I think they have a different angle flare then the normal stuff, so this makes you have to change your calipers maybe...or if there is such a thing as an adapter. The problem is the stainless cant flare as far without splitting, so its flared to a lesser degree.

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

I believe it is a bubble flare...I cant exactly figure out how to use the F'n bubble flare thing I got from part source...so I will probably end up double flaring it and making it work anyways...

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

well for those interested...everything is done and installed with no leaks.

I deleted the ABS module, ran the Apexi SS braided lines, Jegs line lock, and a wilwood combination prop valve.

I had to bubble flare the lines to mate up to the apexi SS lines, and I had to reuse my stock banjo bolt, as the banjo bolt provided had a different thread pitch on it.

Jegs line lock takes a bubble flare as well, as does our rear most out on the master cylinder??...I thought that was weird since the front one seemed to be a double flare...go figure...w.e, I got it all mated up nice and like I said, no leaks....

Car has never stopped better in its life...I am actually suprised at how well things went...a bit frustrating trying to find parts and diagnose some of the leaks at the beginning (wrong flares) but she brakes awesome now...and I dont even have the prop valve cranked up as high as what she could go...The front still locks before the rear...

Overall I am pretty happy with everything, so yes I would reccomend these to someone else, just know it is not a simple bolt and go...you need to do some flaring for em to work...

10.5prooutlaw

i have them. got them from russell or earls fittings they are pricey but killer

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

The Apexi ones were 35$ for the pair which is why I got them over the earls/russels

fastcars95

iTrader: (9)

I would like to do the same thing. Can you send me some info. Where did you get all your parts and fittings.
I'm going to skip the line-lock for now until I get a stronger rear-end.
If you have some pics can you send me some
fastcars95@hotmail.com

thanks
stephen

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

email sent

Let me know if you need anything else.

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

Just a note out...don't break a banjo bolt on these cars...apparently no GM parts place has them ANYWHERE...and they're discontinued (cause its not like people ever have to do their brakes, and its not like the bolts don't break or get lost accidently...)

AND...steer clear of COCHRANE AUTOMOTIVE if you're in/near Toronto...I went in and asked for the banjo bolt (this is a specialty GM service place WHO DOES BRAKES) and when the guy said they don't have em and can't get them, I asked what they do when they do a brake job on a customers car and lose/break that bolt...apparently "they hand the keys back to the customer and tell them to buy a new car because now they aren't going to have brakes" .... I wonder if the fucktard was dropped on his head as a kid...

^btw this is not a result of the SS brake lines...it was my whole adventure today when I checked my brakes because I replaced everything when I did the lines, and I was unsure of the passenger side caliper and sliding pins...sure enough it was sticking pretty bad...so I went to change it...of course partsource sold me a bad caliper (where the banjo bolt goes in and the washers go was on a huge angle and pitted ) and I didnt see it...I torqued the bolt to spec but saw it still leaked...I thought maybe the torque wrench wasn't accurate so I tried to torque it a few more lbs (5-6 more) and she tore the head right off...awesome

fastcars95

iTrader: (9)

that sucks.
Cookstown Auto wreckers has a few f-bodies
I removed the abs mods last night. It is heavy

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

You can order them from raybestos apparently...thats where my exhaust guy got me the bolt from...I had it the next day and the car is good to go again...

I weighed the ABS module on the fishscale and she weighed in at about 15lbs...thats without fluid...I dunno how much fluid that thing actually holds.

I'm debating on cutting away the wires and crap thats there now that I don't need...the small ones probably don't weight much...but there is that one big sucker of a harness that goes on the bottom side that might nab me another pound or two...especially if I trace it right back to the origin...

Man if I ever have the time, I would love to just take apart the dash and cut away all the wires that I don't need...I have wiring back there for everything I don't have, and I heard you can loose close to 20lbs if you snip away all that crap...I got no power options or keyless entry or any of that stuff...

Not to get far off topic, but I think that this is one of the best ways to save weight...is when I've cut about 150lbs atleast and when you sit in the car you are none the wiser...I don't want people to know that the car is on a diet, I want the clean look inside still unless it is at the track...then it can all comes out...