I agree! Any and everyone who can afford the extra few $ should call up the cam company of your choice and get something custom ground specifically for you application.

These companies spend so much in research and dyno time to make sure they have the correct solution for their customers

 

just out of interest i am running the 2215 and have been for 2 seasons. works very well with my carb setup and stock heads. for my application i didnt need massive power or revs, just low down pull and plenty of torque as its a lightweight car (1800lbs max). i rev it to about 6400rpm, power tails off at about 6200. have fitted uprated pushrods and valve springs/retainers. idles very well and pulls hard for what it is.
i have a full race 3" exhaust system with 1 7/8" headers and the car made 404bhp @ hubs on a dynopack on a 750cfm carb and msd box, with GMPP intake. engine is dry sumped and runs no ancilliaries like p/s or air con.

 

was also going to add that if i was starting again i might now go for a custom grind to suit a carb, with a bit more lift but for what it cost and its fairly safe lift limit it was a bargain due to the £/$ ratio at that time. from what i remember from researching at the time they had done quite a bit of dyno proving with these cams and carb combos along with their intakes, as a complete package. i should have had the intake also but it kept being delayed so i went for the GMPP intake much later on

 

I'm gathering parts for my Carb'd 5.3 and have the Edelbrock RPM with thier Control box and was considering one of these or the GM Hot cam. It sounds like we are both looking for the same thing, Good power with driveability, not necessarily max Power at High RPM.

 

watch out for the edelbrock version of the msd ignition box. its not very good. the timing is way advanced on all the pills and you cant mod it yourself via the laptop. didnt work for me with uk 95 ron fuel, detted its head off. swapped it for the 6010 version.

 

I will keep that in mind. The manifold/controller was given to me so I thought I'd give it a try. Plus I was planning on running one of there recommended cams so let's hope that one of the pills is close. If not it's the 6010.

 

If it is not the 6010, sell it and get one if you can, it is too damn good a piece of electronics not to have.

 

I bought the Edelbrock Cam and Manifold, but the MSD 6010 Box. I would recommend Edel manifold, but not the box. I think buying the MSD and Edel manifold seperatley from Summit was cheaper than the Edelbrock package anyways.

BTW, Edelbrock cam was an easy install and the kit comes with very detailed directions, no need to pull up alldata for anything.

 

did you get the 2215 cam in the end? let me know what you think of it. i havent ever tried a large lopey cam so can only say the small cam works ok for me on my application

also to add if anyone knows, who grinds these cams for edelbrock or are they their own?

 

i put a 2216 in my friends 04 gto with 243 heads. haven't dyno it yet but the car pulls like a M*ther F*cker!!! has a nice choppy idle too

 

Well the manifold and controller was given to me so no$ invested. I was thinking about running one the Edelbrock Carb Cams, cause they are about what I was looking at in other cam companies plus they have pills programmed for there cams, so it should be a matched set.

 

I think it might be the 2216? Whichever is the bigger cam. I'm in MN and there is snow on the ground till April and the motor is still out of the car so I will be able to hear it run in about a month or so, but won't be able to feel it pull for about 4 months. I gotta move this is depressing.

 

I noticed you were running a 200-4r, what flexplate are you using or are you modifying the stock one? My 200 is out of a Caprice and I would recommend getting a Lokar flexible dipstick because the stocker won't fit right with the heads and I had a leak last summer because it ***** the dipstick sideways not allowing it to seat. Factory fresh from 87' with a TCI rmvb and still going strong.

 

Running the Stock 5.3 flexplate with the GM Spacer kit

 

will be the 2216 then.
I parked my car up in August after a trackday, and its not been started since, and i have about 2 months yet to go before i can get out on track here in the UK, time moves very slowly in winter , cant wait to drive it again!

 

Already running the lokar dipstick so I'm good there. Haven't put the motor in yet so I still have to verify the Stock 5.3 Flex plate with the GM Spacer which I already have. I'm getting conflicting info on what works. Ive heard I can install the spacer over the 5.3 flexplate elongate the converter bolt holes and call it done, but I'm also hearing that I will need the 6.0 Flex-plate too. I need to figure this out soon cause I'm getting close to doing this.

 

Yes, Use the 5.3 flexplate and elongate (use the convertor as a guide) about 1/4~3/8" per hole. Buy the Hughes apadter (about $43 from Summit) I can get you a p/n if needed. Alls the adapter does is supports the convertor snout, but is needed. It is the adpater that goes between the flexplate and the convertor, not the flexplate and the crank.

 

There are two style flexplates. There is the offset style for cars like the Camaro that use 4l60e and then there is the flat flexplate for trucks using the 4l80e. To use your TH200-4R, you will need the flat flexplate and the spacer. It is available as one low cost replacement part from GM: #12621399 Flywheel & spacer assy. I think I paid $50 or $60 for it. If you are going to be racing and/or running big horsepower, Hughes has an SFI flyweel and spacer.

 

Now that I'm viewing this I think I will Return the spacer and bolts and order the kit. Thanks

 

This flat flexplate didn't work with my 200-4r. I used a 5.3 flexplate. The wider bolt pattern made me have to drill holes for the 4l80e flex, I would rather elongate them so it would be easier to keep them center in th 5.3 flex. The only thing I needed for my 5.3 flex was a Hughes adapter and 5 min. my air grinder.