95 Z28 6.0 swap
04-01-2011, 01:14 AM
#21
Honestly, it is my buddies car and he wanted a starter right then so we could try to get it cranked, so he got whatthey had, had to use 2 long bolts instead of a long and short like my two swaps, I used the ls1tech FS section specials, lol.
This swap is turning out cleaner than I imagined though, damn headers wouldn't fit so we used the manifolds, the lt1 steering shaft is routed in the way.
This swap is turning out cleaner than I imagined though, damn headers wouldn't fit so we used the manifolds, the lt1 steering shaft is routed in the way.
04-03-2011, 02:20 AM
#22
The starter i purchased was 149 with a lifetime warranty..... so i say it was worth it. better than 160ish for an ls1 starter long and short pattern.... and i have a 4l80e flex-plate installed in the car.... this starter was the cheapest and for a heavy duty truck with the 4l80e... so by gm standards they are a perfect match. My only concern with this starter was header/manifold clearance until i compared the two side by side.... short side goes to engine block... so its irrelevant what starter you use. not like SBC with internal external balance.... and 153 and 168 teeth...lol
lol 
04-07-2011, 12:20 AM
#30
It came from Oriley... Cheapest starter they had period. Ls1 was like 169. My part number is Ultima - Starter Part # 6492S... They will tell you it does not show up as a part number in their store they told me this twice and finally he was like I guess your right. The starter is for a 2000 chevy silverado 2500 hd with a 6.0... They will find it for that specific vehicle.
04-07-2011, 12:32 AM
#31
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The plates offer direct drop in on a LT1 frame? I was told to just switch k members. Looking to drop a LS6 in my 96 Z28. Do the headers not fit because the motor sits back an extra inch? Would that be a different story if I used a LS1 k member? Or would you need to swap to a LS1 steering linkage?
04-07-2011, 08:55 PM
#34
Ok whole new k-member no.... The problem is with the lt1 rack. It gave me a slight problem installing the ls1 alternator... No big deal. The headder clearance is almost non existent with the lt1 rack. I had to grind the tabs on the linkage fiber joint to make the manifolds fit or now until I can get my hands on an ls1 rack. Difference between the two- lt1- sits almost straight up causing the steering knuckle to hit....... Ls1- is angled to the driver side and the steering linkage runs really close to the frame rail.
04-10-2011, 01:22 PM
#35
Well i wanted to give everyone an insight as to how much it would cost to do a conversion like mine.... doing all the work yourself. i have listed every part i have purchased in relation to this car. mistakes are included but luckily it will be much cheaper next go around lol.
1. Short block LQ4 - $350
2. Heads with machine work done $350
3. MSD box $303
4. Torque converter (jegs 3,000 stall) $202
5. Ls2 timing set $95
6. Ls1 balancer $20
7. Headers with y-pipe $100
8. Oil pump ls6 $85
9. Th350 transmission $200
10. Ls1 brackets alternator/ps pump JUNK $100
11. Working ps pump and alternator+ brackets $50
12. Transmission dipstick $25
13. Coil packs $50
14. Head gaskets (6.0) $115
15. ARP head bolts $153
16. Victor JR. ls1 intake $270
17. Valve springs $200
18. ARP rod bolts $90
19. Resize rods and install ARP bolts $95
20. Rings, rod bearings, main bearings $212
21. Clean block, install cam bearings, polish crank $145
22. Install 24x reluctor $40
23. 24x Reluctor wheel from general motors $20
24. Custom intake valley cover $20
25. Valve cover gaskets $12
26. Oil pan gasket $50
27. Ls1 radiator $40
28. Head alignment pins $12
29. Engine paint $40
30. Subframe connectors boxed BMR $165
31. B&M starshifter (used) $50
32. Trans fluid $24
33. Power steering fluid $13
34. Accesory drive belt $13
35. Starter $150
36. Oil pan, windadge tray, pickup tube $150
37. Cammotion camshaft $250
38. Carb rebuild kit $30
39. Heater hose fitting $4
40. New B&m z-gate shifter (bought for shift selector and cable) with discount- $90
41. Resistor for alternator $1
42. Toggle switch $5
43. Sbc lifters $125
44. Comp pushrods $104
45. Cam retention plate/gasket $30
46. 5.3 flexplate and spacer $50
47. 4l80e flexplate $95
48. Longer flecplate bolts $40
49. ARP converter bolts $16
50. Intake gaskets $23
51. Arp starter bolts $13
52. Rear main seal $23
53. Timing cover set $44
54. Extra 5.3 I bought to get cam and crank sensors out of $100
55. Oil pressure, water temp gauges, TR6 plugs, Oil filter $95
56. Heater hose from head crossover $4
57. Fittings for small heater hose to t-fitting $12
I still need to get my radiator repaired because it has a small leak and im sure there will be a few more small parts but this is the just of it all.... totaling $5,163
1. Short block LQ4 - $350
2. Heads with machine work done $350
3. MSD box $303
4. Torque converter (jegs 3,000 stall) $202
5. Ls2 timing set $95
6. Ls1 balancer $20
7. Headers with y-pipe $100
8. Oil pump ls6 $85
9. Th350 transmission $200
10. Ls1 brackets alternator/ps pump JUNK $100
11. Working ps pump and alternator+ brackets $50
12. Transmission dipstick $25
13. Coil packs $50
14. Head gaskets (6.0) $115
15. ARP head bolts $153
16. Victor JR. ls1 intake $270
17. Valve springs $200
18. ARP rod bolts $90
19. Resize rods and install ARP bolts $95
20. Rings, rod bearings, main bearings $212
21. Clean block, install cam bearings, polish crank $145
22. Install 24x reluctor $40
23. 24x Reluctor wheel from general motors $20
24. Custom intake valley cover $20
25. Valve cover gaskets $12
26. Oil pan gasket $50
27. Ls1 radiator $40
28. Head alignment pins $12
29. Engine paint $40
30. Subframe connectors boxed BMR $165
31. B&M starshifter (used) $50
32. Trans fluid $24
33. Power steering fluid $13
34. Accesory drive belt $13
35. Starter $150
36. Oil pan, windadge tray, pickup tube $150
37. Cammotion camshaft $250
38. Carb rebuild kit $30
39. Heater hose fitting $4
40. New B&m z-gate shifter (bought for shift selector and cable) with discount- $90
41. Resistor for alternator $1
42. Toggle switch $5
43. Sbc lifters $125
44. Comp pushrods $104
45. Cam retention plate/gasket $30
46. 5.3 flexplate and spacer $50
47. 4l80e flexplate $95
48. Longer flecplate bolts $40
49. ARP converter bolts $16
50. Intake gaskets $23
51. Arp starter bolts $13
52. Rear main seal $23
53. Timing cover set $44
54. Extra 5.3 I bought to get cam and crank sensors out of $100
55. Oil pressure, water temp gauges, TR6 plugs, Oil filter $95
56. Heater hose from head crossover $4
57. Fittings for small heater hose to t-fitting $12
I still need to get my radiator repaired because it has a small leak and im sure there will be a few more small parts but this is the just of it all.... totaling $5,163
Last edited by Slick87Rush; 04-10-2011 at 01:28 PM. Reason: adding the total and info
04-13-2011, 07:09 PM
#38
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When you guys cut out the cowl area did you put a filler panel back in? I'm about ready to cut the cowl area in my 2000 trans am and I'm looking for a few ideas.
Thanks
Thanks
04-13-2011, 08:02 PM
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I was just worried that the cowl area protruding into the engine bay was somehow structural. I'm guessing now that it isn't. So I can cut just what I need to to clear the air cleaner?
